Ross

You need clutch disk (9") from the ea81 (83 onwards i think) and the ea82 press. plate & flywheel. No idea about the mounting. Distributer running depends on what age ea82t it is. Later ones have crank angle sensor, and are useless without computor. Earlier ones should work without (i think). From what i remember, hte ea82ts went to crank angle sensor in 87 or 88.

Thats interesting, my ea81t has the same prob. Just how "creative" did the plumbing have to be?

Hey, so what ea81s came with hyd. lifters? I know my 81 doesn't have them, but will the 83 turbo?

Could be excessive joint angle (Are your front struts in the fully lifted position?), or possibly insufficient lubrication. I always clean out all grease that comes in new joints or bearings and re pack them myself. Often stores will use the cheapest grease available, and the absolute minimum amount. More likely is that most of the grease has leaked out of hte boot over time. If the boot is not ripped, then the straps thet hold it on the axle are too loose.

Yes, i had the timing set to that until yesturday. It did perform well at higher rpms, but made it VERY easy to stall when taking off. Not a good thing when your starter motor isn't going!

Is there any difference (apart from colour) between the center consoles from an '81 and '83 D/R manual? cheers.

Have the diode bridge in the alternator checked by an auto electrician - alternating current in your electrical system can do some weird things.

Thanks naru, your help is much appreciated. What do you mean by this?

A little off subject, but are you sure that one of those sensors is for hte dash gauge? Just that mine seems to be on a hose near the heater plumbing?

Nice, that o/flow tank sure aint going anywhere! Pity one wont fit there on the turbo!

yes, CHG usualy means charge. i dont think the '79 would have had an electric choke. you need a wiring diagram, someone here must have an electronic copy????

ok, so i've set the timing at 15btdc as advised by naru (I originaly had it at 20btdc as in the haynes manual). Prob is, the engine now seems to lack the "oomph" it used to have above 3500 rpm or so. Any ideas? Would a bad vacuum advance diaphragm do this? The reason i suspect this is that if i suck on the vacuum line leading up to it, it does not seem to hold the vacuum. (in other words i can keep sucking air out).

Put a little coolant in the overflow tank, so that the tube is immersed. This prevents air being sucked into the system.

MSSLGECKO: I have just added an overflow tank to the ea81t. Not quite as easy as how ravenTBK did it on his non turb though, as there is no room down where he has his bottle. I ended up putting it under the spare wheel - let us know if you find somewhere better!

I have noticed that the ea81t looses water, and found that the reason was that the radiator has a recovery type cap on it, but has no recovery system. Tried buyiing a non recovery cap, but they arn't made in the small size. My question: Should this car have a recovery system? If so, where should it be?

One thing that can cause the nut to lossen: "under" the nut there are two washers: the cone washer, and another that goes between the cone washer and the nut. This washer looks like your ordinary washer, but is not! It is actually slightly tapered, and if installed the wrong way will cause the nut to lossen. You should be able to see the correct way to install it by looking at how it sits on the cone washer.

Steel bolts/screw in aluminium castings can corrode together, hence stripping then when they are removed. THe solution depends on how badly they are stripped. You may be able to fit a longer screw? Failing this, if the hole is not badly stripped, you could try wrapping thread seal tape around the screw. I have heard this works sometimes, but i don't really like the sound of it for important components. A helicoil is the best option. If the hole is blind (i don't know much about ea82s so im not sure on this) you can heliciol safely without taking the component out. If it is a thru hole, you will probably need to remove the component, to collect the chips from tapping. Hope this helps. By the way, the use of helicoil kits does not usually require drilling. You just run a special helicoil tap down the hole. Drills are sometimes required in steel, but seldomly in aluminium.

Cant seem to adjust the idle in the ea81t to below 1000 rpm...... the adjuster screw is undone completely. Not sure what is causing it, but i suspect the auxiliary air valve? The valve has had its top (black plastic) snapped off at some stage, and has been glued back together. Would a hole in the glue cause the engine to rev higher than it should even when the engine is warmed up? If anyone has a diagram of the inside of the aux air valve it would be nice.....! any ideas? cheers.

My haynes workshop manual has very little on this for the mpfi enignes. It does say: 20 btdc with idle switch on and test connector connected. All very well, but what test connector, and where on earth is the idle switch? Also, should i be plugging the vacuum advance as normal? (the manual doesn't say so...)

Pumping the accelerator could be the problem - you shouldn't need to.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the cooling system between US cars and the ones here in new zealand (and australia)? If there isn't, the cardboard shouldnt be necissary, cos iv'e run my ea81 in -15 - -20 celsius (around 0 fahrenheit) and the only probs i had were with the battery and gearbox.

Any grinding wheel will do the job ok. Another option would be a die grinder.

Sounds like a nice car! (apart from stalling...). Does the enigne have either an automatic choke or an automatic hot air intake? The black cloud sounds like it is flooding itself........but this could also be caused by trying to start it when the spark plugs arn't firing. I presume the ignition points have been replaced when the distributor was recond.? Could also be the condensor. Does the car run well when it is going? If this were a spark plug, points or ignition lead prob it would run poorly all the time. This is not necissarily true for the condensor though.

If nothing is wrong with the breaks, the wheel bearings could be at fault. Play can only be felt if the bearings are very worn, you could still have a shattered ball in there. I have had this prob before, not sure what caused it, but it was making very disturbing cracking sounds. If you do find that the bearings are at fault, check the dimensions of the knuckle and spacer against a known good one. The bearing may be locking up sometimes, wearing the spacers. I ended up having to shim the outer race spacer after this happened.

Seriously, just weld it. Any decent engineering workshop should have a TIG welder. It will only take them a couple of minutes and the transmisison case will be as good as new. Go somewhere that specialises in aluminium welding, they will already have the correct electrodes and filler wire. Its really not a big deal to do, i'd do it for you myself if i lived a little closer! In my opinion, even if you do have to pay someone to do it, its better to spend this money and have a reliable fix than to do it cheap and have to worry about it.