pginter96

Hey everyone I just have some questions relating to the exhaust on my 97 Legacy, was wondering if anyone has experience that would be most helpful. I recently put UEL headers on (with questionable success) and after replacing the stud I broke I am dissapointed at the lack of noise. Im looking at a Magnaflow 14832 (No fart cans!) however the inlet size on that is 2.25 inches. Can anyone tell me what the stock exhaust diameter should be on a 97 Legacy? Also, since I am operating on a college budget and do not have access to a welder, what would be the best method of coupling the muffler, pipe, and most likely adapter together? Ive seen butt joints and slip joints with sleve clamps (and copper RTV silicone) on them. How reliable are these? Ive already put up with horrible exhaust leaks and do not want to go back and "unbreak" stuff again. What would be best? Or should I just give up and pay some shop to do it for me before I find out its not possible?

Had a brand new (like not even dirty) axle back when I got in in november. Resonator pipe in decent shape. Cats look good from the outside, have no problems, but dont know how they are internally. Just about every heat shield has rotted loose. The headers you have are OEM style Im assuming?

Whats left of my origional headers, and the heat shields that rattle against them at random RPMs

This is what Im looking at. I know its a knock off, but its all Im willing to spend money on. After all, how complicated could a metal pipe be? *rhetorical auestion* http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190755526892?lpid=82

I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point.

Living proof! ...how long is "a while?" My car does the rough idle thing too. No CEL or anything, just noticable and intermittent. Being a 97 with 72k and no maintinece records (and practically sitting for 2 years) i popped out one of the spark plugs, and found it was filthy. Havent got around to changing them yet, its on the "pre-college tune-up/project" list. Try some higher quality platinum tip plugs and see if it makes a difference.

I agree with this, and add that pre-OBDII can be better if you plan on modifications and what said modifications are. "Best" is kinda vague. But as the owner of a 97 EJ25D and having worked on EJ22's, I'd go for the EJ22 in a heartbeat as parts tend to be interchangeable on the EJ series, which was made for years so parts are easy to find (might run into OBDII compliance issues and minor changes, to be expected). Im unfamiliar with the earlier 1.8, but just from my experience i have a lot of confidence behind the EJ22. If i were in your shoes, I'd personally look for a 95 Legacy.

This was after a half hour drive. Bubbles popped up one by one, but quickly stopped altogether in less than a minute. Could it just be from driving vibrations or head gasket?

Did the upper rad hose check this morning. No pressure in the hose after a short while running.

These? Saw them a while ago. Wondering what they were for...

Should have also mentioned earlier that when the engine is cold, it has a strange idle. It will idle fine, sound like its stalling then quickly rev to about 1000 rpm, then steady out. Happens about once or twice a minute until it warms up. Thermostat?

No bubbles in the coolant resivoir with engine running, ill do the hose test tomorrow morning. Still nothing from the right fan, even with a (very) warm engine and the AC on. Would a faulty thermostat cause an innacurate reading on the gauge? Seems a lot warmer than what it shows. Does anyone know what the temp would be normally? I find the fact that the gauge is unlabled annoying.

Well it was previously owned by the "little old lady." It has just ticked over to 77,000 yesterday. Don't think any things beig covered up or hidden. Yes it's an EJ25D, I've been worried about head gaskets for a while. It could be the thermostat, not sure. Also, are both cooling fans supposed to be running at the same time? The left one is the only one that runs. I know they have problems with the connectors being too exposed on the bottom, haven't gotten time to check and see if any connections are good. I'll to the head gasket test when I have a chance. Thanks for the advice everyone! (Knew I shoulda got the 2.2... Lol)

Since I got my 97 Legacy Outback in november, the coolant gauge has never gotten above roughly 1/3 of the way up. Now that Im finally getting some nicer, warmer whether im worried about an innacurate gauge. A few times now Ive looked under the hood and seen some coolant on top of the resivoir and splashed down the front of the timing belt cover. Could this be a simple overflow? Hose is tight to the resivoir. Is there any way I can tell if I have a faulty sonsor/gauge? Or is it normal for the gauge to read 1/3 all the time after warming up? I dont take very long trips, average runs for about an hour at a time but no road trips or anything. (Dont take it on the highway often due to a cam seal leak that drips/blows onto the headers and front cat, smokes a bit) just wondering if other owners have the same reading. On a side note, how are UEL headers in comparison to stock? Currently have a small exhaust manifold leak and considering replacing them with the cheap knockoff UEL headers that are pretty much the same pricewise as knockoff EL headers. Thanks for the advice!

Could be. Like I said, I dont think having chunks of ice and freezing water blasting the bottom of the car at 60 mph can be very healthy for anything. Im taking an automotive technology course so ill take it in thursday, i made my instructor curious. Knows nothing about boxers lol (GM guy) but he did a front driveshaft/u joint last year on a 4th gen legacy.

I didnt do anything to it and the noise went away today. Any ideas? Could cold have any effect? Its a lot warmer (mid 50s) today

Drone noise started this morning. Sounds like an exhaust drone but it just started and theres no exhaust leak. Starts around 55 to 60 mph. Vibration too, i can feel it in my seat and the rearview mirror, etc. vibrates. I dont have a splash pan on the underside of the car and i hit a frozen over deep puddle this morning before i noticed the noise, might have something to do with it. What do yall think? Engine? Exhaust? Trans/driveline? Also, does anyone know where i can find a splash pan for this generation, if this even came with one? Im tired of a cloud of steam bursting out underneath my car every time i go over a puddle...

Its not frozen to the window, i make sure to lift the wiper and clear off any ice. The wiper blade moves just fine, a little bit of play in the linkage. I can hear the motor working, too.

Where I live in upstate new york it is not uncommon for the temperature to stay between 0 and 10. The past few days have been like that and i notice that when I start my car in the morning my rear wiper does not work. continues not to work on the morning commute. If I try it later in the day if the temp gets above 20 or so it works just fine. those who live in cold climates know cold does funny things to cars, im just wondering if anyone has an idea of what could cause this?

My buddie's Chrysler van did the same thing to him three times- just this winter. Haven't tracked down the problem. Check for shorts to voltage (loose wiring to lock module/actuator) otherwise it might be a computer gremlin if it has the keyless entry installed.

Thanks for all the help, guys. Especially appreciate the service info, ive been looking for that. I went out and checked the ground connerctions and they all seemed ok. Due to the blizzard that just went through i havent really gotten a chance to get underneath it all that much to look for the leak. In anticipation i picked up a Fel-Pro cork oil pan gasket for $5, so i wont be out that much should it be something else. My local junkyard has a good deal on alternators, $19.35 with a 30 day warrenty for 10% of the price. I was going to pick up an alternator and throw it on a bench tester before putting it on the car.

Hey everyone, Im looking for some advice for my new (to me) car. Its a 97 legacy outback with only 73k on it. Ive owned it for almost a month now and as is with any used car there are a few issues. The one im most worried about is that when i hit my brakes, operate windows, wipers, etc. anything electrical, my lights go dim and my wipers slow down. The car has a brand new battery. I tested the alternator and it is making 14.7 v like it should, but only 0.5 amp under load (85 amp alternator, should be making at least 30 under load) . For the amount of time ive owned it the condition hasnt gotten worse, everything still works fine, starts in the close to 0 temps, im just wondering if this is something that needs immediate attention. Im aware that the legacy was recalled for alternator issues many years ago, but it has a remanufactured alternator and im assuming this simply has to do with age. On an unrelated topic, how bad is an oil pan gasket job on these? She marks her territory a little... Im an auto tech in training and try to do everything i can myself, but my service info called for an engine hoist...