pginter96

Also, (milesfox should be happy about this) there was a sale on 5 qts Mobile 1 synthetic and a filter, so I just figured ah what the heck it's like $3 more than a conventional oil change so I'll run 0-40 And see if that helps any. With the new pump, correct dampner, and 0-40 hopefully something will make a difference

Well I'm replacing the oil pump now. Just had another thought- when I swapped the engine I put the harmonic dampener from the 25 on the 22. Could the different weight be causing some grief? Also, the timing gear pulley puller I bought doesn't fit the crank sprocket. Is there some trick to getting it off without it, or should I loosen the oil pump and (gently) pry it off? Or am I dead in the water? EDIT-got the sprocket off by using two screwdrivers on either side and prying

As stated before, the leak is behind the timing belt cover, so not the pressure switch. I bought the pump I linked above on Amazon, I should have a chance to replace it on thursday. This car is my only mode of transportation so I'll just need it to hold together until then. The engine is a whole sifferent story... I bought it with no intention to put it in my car over the summer, head gaskets made me desperate. I never saw it run, and dont know if the supposed 140k is true. I dont even know for certain what it came out of. I would never have bought this engine if I knew I would run it, just too sketchy. It was a gamble, and I knew it, not sure if its paid off yet. Either way it gets me more places than a constantly overheating EJ25D would. I didnt see any visible damage to the pump. I saw oil residue like there had been a leak, I just assumed it was a crank seal and didnt bother to change it.

Also, (this is directed more towards MilesFox,) what are your thoughts on 15-50 full synthetic? The guy I got my engine from runs 15-50 synthetic in his crazy wrx drivetrain swapped, sti 5 speed 95 legacy EJ22 with over 250k on it and he swears by it. Oil is a tricky subject, it seems everyone is partial to something, I dont have enough experience to, and everyones telling me something different.

Thanks for the info It wouldnt be a timing belt tensioner, the one on there is brand new, I changed it before the swap. So in other words a high volume pump wouldnt be worth it? Im curious about it... What harm could a high-volume pump cause?

Here is a video of it running

After finishing my EJ22 swap and starting it up for the first time it knocked and clattered. I expected it to for w little while, at least to break itself in. The only issue is that Ive driven about 150 miles and the noises haven't gotten much better. There's a "mid-end" (I would call it bottom end but cant for a boxer apparently) knock, sounds almost like a rod knock. Its fairly quiet, I have heard worse. There's also a bit of lifter clatter. That is a bit louder. Both noises are present no matter what temperature the engine is at, slightly worse on cold starts. The rod knock-type sound goes away when the engine is under load, while the lifter clatter might get quieter but its tough to tell. I had the car up on a lift with it running yesterday and it has a pretty substantial leak from the center of the timing cover. At first I thought it was a crank seal leak, just like my old EJ25D had. The oil is leaking from two places though, both about an inch or two off-center from either side of the crank. I just put two and two together... This engine supposedly came from an Impreza that hit a deer. the harmonic dampener was pushed through the timing belt cover, and the cover was too damaged to re-use. Could the oil pump be damaged? I know I have a habit of being in denial, but I find it hard to believe I have two engine noises that are usually caused by oil starvation and coincidentally a leak near the pump that would cause a lack of pressure. I don't have any means of checking oil pressure otherwise I would have already. Would a high-volume oil pump be worth considering? There's a 12mm pump on Amazon for around $120. Pros and cons to high-volume? EDIT: link - http://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-OP9002-Forester-Impreza-Outback/dp/B00M4QO1DA

this is more out of curiosity than an actual effort to fix this, this engine is a lost cause... After driving home today, I pulled in the driveway and put it in park. Idle rose a bit, like it normally does, then ran rough for a second or two, ran perfectly fine after that and threw a cel. Scan tool said "P0507- Idle air control RPM higher than expected." Ive never seen this before, even in the shop I work in. What could cause this? Should mention this is an EJ22E swap into a car that origionally had an EJ25D. I had to swap the IAC valve from the 2.5 to the 2.2 as it was not working on the 2.2. Apart from that in the beginning, this is the first non-emissions related code its thrown. Ill just assume that this is a funky thing that happens by running an engine in a car whos ecu wasnt mapped out for that engine. Thanks for any input

I am in a very similar situation as your buyer, and I will be the first to say it is the buyers fault. I bought an EJ22E that I had never seen run but was told it was good, and after a week of engine swap in my garage I start it up to find it knocking and ticking and leaking and... Overall, just unhappy to be living again. As long as you told the buyer that you had not seen the engine run, and you gave no guarantee of it running, its all an assumption on his part. Did you offer any warrenty/exchange/guarentee/promise? If not, its all on him. Rotten deal and it sucks to be in, but it is what it is. More importantly I'd assume, Theres the legal side. was there a bill of sale written and if so what did it state about matters such as this?

Well even though the swap was successful, its time to face it... The engine isnt... I have a rod knock. Just your reminder to NEVER BUY AN ENGINE UNLESS YOU SEE IT RUN So, guess Ill start on the head gaskets since the 2.5 is out... On that note, anyone know of anyone selling a good, running EJ22E in the buffalo/western new york area? Just in case? Ive fallen in love with that little engine. Apart from scary noises and a very substantial oil pump leak, it runs beautifully. So smooth it puts the 25 to shame.

Second generation Impreza. 2000-2002. Looks like this (Picture from wikipedia)

I'd keep an eye on eBay. You'll find the projector headlights and clear lens taillights there, along with BG5 body parts, for a price of course...

If you're looking for more support, bugeye WRX seats fit perfectly, that's what I have in my 97. They are nice seats If you can find them in a junkyard, that is...

Now that everyone is suddenly suggesting ej22 swaps, I will to. Thats what I did! Same situation. Little less power but more reliable. Just make sure you know that the engine ran and ran well when it was removed.

They (Subaru dealer) quoted me $3400 for head gaskets, timing belt, oil seperator, crank seal, and an oil pan seal. Over $4000 if the exhaust "broke during removal." Dont know where they got that number from but I walked out of there laughing. As for the question by CATM93, If you do it and they take the engine out, have them replace the oil seperator cover. Its a small plastic plate on the back of the engine behind the flywheel. ALL of them leak. All of them. The plasctic ones crack or warp. Subaru makes new ones out of steel as they realized they kinda cheaped out. If you dont mind an oil leak its no big deal, but its my opinion that if it starts to leak profusely, the only way you could get to it is by pulling the engine. Heres a (pretty bad) picture of the plastic cover on my EJ25D

Wow, that video... Thats exactly what mine sounds like. Did that go away over time or did the different oil wieght help? The only issue I have with that is that it does get that cold here this time of year. I dont know how the oil would handle such lower temperatures. What would be the difference between 10-40 and 0-40 at 0 degrees F cold start?

been there before. head gaskets. the randomness can get really annoying! I agree you might be able to leave the engine in but it makes it a lot easier to get to everything with it out. Its not physically impossible, but pretty dang close. Not to mention, the actual engine removal isn't removing a whole lot more off of the engine than you would need to if you left it in the car and took the heads off. the worst part is having some means of getting the engine out of the car, and the time to do so.

Honestly I have no idea. The vin area is too corroded to read at all, theres no vin left. People here on the forum tell me its a 97-98, and it has a single piece, arm-type timing belt tensioner that either haynes or gates says is for 98 and up. It doesnt have hookups for a front evap canister either, have no idea where they are on imprezas but i know they are rear mounted on 99 legacies. This is all pretty vague I know, but your guess is as good as mine.

Well it drives great. Little gutless on the hills, but it feels like it has more low-end torque than the 25. And this motor has a front crank seal leak as well! Oh well, these motors have to leak from somewhere. Its automatic rustproofing. As for the knock, it has gotten a lot quieter. Goes away entirely when the engine is under load. It threw a P1143 (if I remember correctly) code, for the PSSS or purge solenoid. Figures, I havent done anything to hook up the canister yet. The tick is still pretty prevalent. Sounds like valvetrain maybe? Anyways, Im just glad it runs.

Thanks for the info! Well due to a small issue I am running conventional 10-40. I think it's valvoline, I feel horrible not knowing but it's the only thing they had 20 minutes before the store closed. The issue? The EJ22 knocks. Started it up for the first time today and it had a pretty ugly knock. Sounded like mid-end (can't be bottom end on a boxer apparently) and went away under rev/load. Just about to take it on its maiden voyage. I used 5-30 for break in and it knocked for half an hour, so drained that oil and put in 10-40 in hopes that the heavier oil would help. I don't know if it did or if my head is just playin games with me. Also a loud tick but I'm pretty sure it's an exhaust leak. Had a code for an IAC so I just swapped one over from the 25. Wish me luck- I just want my baby back on the road

EJ22 is in! No difficulties. The only thing that worried me is that when (before) I went to install the flexplate-to-torque converter bolts, I spun the engine and the torque converter spun with it. Then when I went around to the starter hole and the torque converter spun on its own, with no abnormal resistance. After that the engine and torque converter spun free of each other allowing me to put the bolts in. Im almost positive that it didnt shift with the engine removed. While installing the flexplate bolts, the flexplate and torque converter had a small gap between them. (Shoutout to Inferno Fabrications for the awesome headers)

I just bought from you on eBay without even noticing last week... I have to say that these headers are incredible. I just finished an EJ22 swap and had UEL headers on my old EJ25 that I really had to wrestle into place and they leaked and made contact with things they shouldnt have... Your headers fit like a glove. I have never come across an aftermarket part that fit so well. I am very impressed with the quality. Keep up the good work!

My 2.2 has two metal lines along the left bank that run under the engine that the 2.5 doesn't have. They aren't connected to anything on the engine, have cut rubber hoses on the front and two fittings on either side of the EGR tube on the back. Are these just trans cooler lines? My car just has them mounted on the frame. Just want to make sure...

Hard part's done Well, one of the hard parts...

Thanks for tips on the evap Lower engine to trans mount nut on drivers side is near impossible to get to. At least without taking off the axle shaft, but that can't happen in my garage. Any tips? EDIT got the nut