bulwnkl

I am aware of data (not generated by nor in any way related to the company) showing that these plugs improved combustion efficiency noticeably. This was a racing application, but given the totality of the info that was shared with me, they should improve street combustion as well. Whether you'll be able to see it in mpg or anything like that I can't say. Sure would be cool to hear what you think if you're wanting to try them anyway.

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink. Hope she gets the issue(s) straightened out.

Though a failing (in terms of being plugged) catalyst can cause this, the likelihood is that the O2 sensor has failed and it'd dumping way too much fuel. This in turn causes much more odor from the exhaust, especially if your fuel there is relatively high sulfur (that's what makes the smell). Still, if it's a catalyst no matter what, I'd try what you found. There are a couple things I tend to buy from Subaru (more accurately: from the manufacturer no matter what brand I'm working on), but frankly it sometimes seems that with any part Subaru puts their own name on one hears that only the Subaru version of that part will work. While possible, I say B.S. on most of that.

Subarus use finger followers. They shouldn't have a problem with the current, lower-ZDDP oils (they don't or else they'd have a problem with the std. 5W30). Note that there are other ways to protect older American (and even current stupid-tech Euro) engines other than ZDDP. A 0W20 will be a synthetic oil, whether labeled as such or not. Can't reasonably make a 0W20 meet SM spec otherwise. So, it'll be a good stable oil.

Thanks for posting the update! Before all the arm-wavers come in to say how that's just for this or that but will grenade the motor, understand that the cams/lifters are the only place that may suffer from a thinner fluid. I say may because, from what I've seen and what my sources tell me, that's all it is: maybe. If Subie's spec'ing a 20, then it's not hurting the cams/lifters.

It'll absolutely help. It doesn't hurt as much when you smash your fingers if they're not cold. What I was really talking about, though, was putting a wrench on the plug and just barely breaking it loose (but NOT enough to let coolant spit on you) was to drive the car and get the engine warm. Whether completely up to operating temp is your call, but I'd get it fully up to temp and then let it sit in the warm garage for a while until it won't scald you just to be near the metal. If that doesn't work, though, you might need to try to crack it at cull operating temp. Crack it then to make sure it's going to come out w/o major force, and then let it sit until cool enough to remove the plug, drain coolant, fit the heater, refill, and be on your way. Good luck!

I have put that block heater in my Baja. Personally, I'd recommend trying to break the plug in the crankcase/block loose with the engine hot. DO NOT REMOVE IT HOT, just barely make it break loose. It could be welded in there really tightly depending upon a thousand things. Once you get it broken free, everything from there is cake. It works well, at least for me. Eastern Idaho is cold, but not nearly as cold as inland Alaska.

"10W20" is very clearly a misprint, as there's essentially no such thing available in north america. Whether they meant 5W20, 10W30, 10W40, 5W40, or what I have no idea.

He said the car doesn't have A/C, so no, he's not using the A/C when he's using defrost. Since the computer is monitoring the oxygen levels in the exhaust stream (which tells you about fuel usage essentially per molecule, not per volume) and adjusting fuel injector duty cycles to get the ratio it wants, it would compensate for any fuel density variation automatically.

Well... What can I say besides DOH!! I thought for sure I'd checked or at least seen that, and am disappointed that I didn't for as long as I've had Subies with that switch. Anyway, thanks bheinen74.

Washington has required 10% ethanol in all gasoline for far longer than your last 3 tanks (unless you haven't driven in a year or so), so it's not that. My Baja is a turbo, and its mpg declines with temperature each winter, then increases with temperature each spring. I even have the paper log of every tank the last 2 winters to prove it. As far as I have been able to tell, turbo Subies are somewhat more sensitive to the cold than the N/A ones. Or, maybe that's just me... Anyway, if you have recorded your mpg in a book or spreadsheet that you can look up, make sure it hasn't done this every winter when it gets cold. There is genuine reason why this happens (cold fluids as was previously mentioned), and why it happens more to an AWD than a 2WD vehicle. Still, the O2 sensor is a possibility. I personally have not had one become 'lazy' on me enough that replacing it before it threw a code helped mpg noticeably. I have seen that happen for others, though. Check your tire pressures and general maintenance items (including air filter), check your mpg log to make sure you haven't just forgotten how much winter impacts your mpg, and then consider your front O2 sensr if you want to. Besides that, wait 'til spring? Good luck.

On Saturday, we completed a drive through the salt capital of the world in the Black Tiger (to all those east of the Great Plains: You may think you live in the salt capital of the world, but that title actually belongs to Utah ). In an effort to prevent the immediate oxidation subsequent powdering of every scrap of metal and paint in the vehicle, I took it yesterday morning to be washed at a local southern Arizona facility. The people at the car wash had genuinely confused and even horrified looks on their faces, and asked with incredulity where I'd been. When I replied Utah, that slightly pacified some of them. In any event, having used the entire contents of their pre-wash buckets along with their scrub brushes they actually got it fairly clean by the time it was all over. When we went out to get it, however, I noticed that the tail lights appeared to be on. This became confusing to me when the attendant handed me the keys since, of course, the lights go off when you turn the keys off. Once we got back to the place we're staying, I saw that the parking or running lights are all on. Not the headlights, but all the others. I played with the switch(es), signals, etc, and they're still on. Key on, off, or wherever doesn't matter. What gives? I disconnected the battery to assure that we still have a functioning one, and will check it again here in a few minutes. The only thing I can come up with is that perhaps another trailer light wiring adapter has failed on me. I had one let go this past summer, so maybe another has shorted inside somehow? Is that reasonable that it could fail in such a way as to make the running/parking lights light up at all times? Thanks for any help or ideas.

If the shop's worth 2 bits, their weld will do very well.

'05 Baja is a turbo. That's what I have, with an A/T. If yours is not a turbo, then it's a Baja Sport. I'm assuming you meant Baja (turbo) just as you said. With that in mind, and knowing that it's an A/T, I know that you have the SportShift (just like me!). That means that the center power divider is Subaru's VTD system, according to cars101.com, which also says that the torque split by default is either 55% or 60% rear, 40% or 45% front (I can't recall which, but you can search that site if you'd like). You should also have a viscous limited slip rear diff, though by their nature the viscous diffs have to slip a bit to really lock up tight. My Baja is quite fun to drive in the snow because it'll behave enough like a RWD truck to throw the back end around, but it MUCH more stable so that you end up power drifting the whole thing if you counter-steer just a little. It's really fun!

I guess I don't know which later model years it's not on? I don't remember one way or the other on my '91 XT-6. My '05 Baja has it, and I thought that both my '99 Outback and '01 Legacy had it. Could be mistaken, though. It's actually a very useful system to have in place. Because it brings the engine oil up to temperature much faster than it would heat up on its own, it is an extremely useful system for many, many drivers (short-trippers, etc.). It keeps acid production down and helps get rid of fuel and water that gets into the oil from cold-start rich running. It also cools the oil if you do end up working the motor hard. So, don't think of it as an oil cooler. Think of it as a system to keep the oil in its design operating range, whether that means it's heating the oil or cooling it. For this reason, I'd keep it in place and functioning. As was said, it is clearly possible for it to break internally such that the oil and coolant could mix. I just don't happen to know of that ever happening (OK, not enough that I've ever heard of it, and it's never happened to me).

'05 Baja turbo, black over black, used to be called the Tie Fighter, but now it's the Black Tiger (anyone remember Star Blazers?).

Well, it is attached to the radiator, after a fashion. Not directly to the radiator, but to the cooling system. However, switching to a WRX radiator wouldn't have affected this item at all. The Bajas have that same kind of cooler. As was said, it's a 'standard' Subaru OEM oil cooler. They're quite useful devices really. More than anything, they help all the short-trippers get their oil up to proper temperature more rapidly, but then they also keep it cool under load. It is possible that it's failed internally, just as any radiator may fail. I don't personally see that as very likely, but it's possible.

I have an '05 Baja turbo. I don't know how directly applicable my vehicle's mpg would be to the Outback you're talking about. My mpg is significantly lower than what a naturally-aspirated Baja's mpg is. I get 20-23 under most circumstances. I will see it drop into the high mid teens when the weather gets REALLY cold. N/A Bajas seem to see mid to high 20s most of the time (all the time?). Interestingly, my mpg doesn't vary too much based on how I drive it. OTOH, I don't ever have occasion to really put my foot in it for more than a super-brief moment (i.e. less than 2 seconds) except when pulling a trailer. That sucks fuel like there's no tomorrow. As for reliability, if we're talking very late '90s through to the mid-00s, I'll take a turbo Subie almost any day over the N/As. No head gasket issues with the turbos. Current-model stuff may not have any issues any more, so there may be no difference. The turbos themselves won't fail unless you do something truly stupid. Contrary to popular belief, turbos don't really 'wear out' any more or faster than any other part inside the engine. Maintain the engine properly, turbo or not, and it'll last a whole lot longer than most people will keep the vehicle.

Hooray for the USMB! Thanks to those who worked so hard to bring the site back!

This exact thing happened to me with my '91 XT-6 a few years ago. No real explanation ever appeared. Hammered like no oil and no main bearings for a couple/few seconds, then quiet. Similar circumstances: had backed it out of the driveway, and then it sat a while (though it was overnight for me). Happened 1 more time fairly soon after that. Never happened again. I could figure absolutely NO reason for it to do it, and there were no ill effects at all. Blu's fine. If you didn't already, you could change the oil filter.

As usual, I agree with grossgary. Still, with what you're saying above, I'd do it if it was me. But then, I know how I approach towing and how I adjust the way I drive when doing so. Nothing wrong with using the un-used Ford, though. I'll say this: We have a trailer that I've pulled with a relative's V-10 Ford, and also with my turbo Baja. The V-10 Ford (we have several at work as well and they get CRAPPY mpg) got better mpg than the Baja towing that trailer. Not just a shave, I'm talking 20% better! Turbo gasoline engines do NOT get good mpg when working hard. So, at least you have a non-turbo!

I don't know the tow rating of that year/model. So, if I pretend it's the same 2,300 lbs. as most of the more recent Legacies, I say go for it. This based on towing at max with my Baja. I also have electric brakes on my heavier trailer, and I don't think I'd do it without them (not to mention state law requires trailer brakes on trailers >1,000 lbs). I do have an aftermarket A/T cooler which IMO is mandatory when towing at or very near max.

Be advised that Hidden Hitch does not make a Class II for the Baja, so anyone representing such is ...incorrect. HOWEVER, if the hitch for the Outback from '00-'04 will fit, there's a Class II for them. Don't know whether they'll bolt up or not, but they sure are different (see pics @ etrailer.com).

I've bought a few things from etrailer.com and have been generally happy with them, though the last purchase included a wiring adapter that was DOA and etrailer would do NOTHING about it except tell me to contact the manufacturer of the item for warranty repair options. That aside, I also thought I'd seen Class II hitches for the Baja before, but have been able to find none anywhere recently. I do not believe anyone's is a class II, and even the owner's manual says the Subaru hitch is a class I. I have the Hidden Hitch on mine and am happy enough with it. I was extremely happy with the Hidden Hitch on my Neon, which is why I bought another. This one is perfectly adequate, though it's not hidden in any way like the Neon's was.

Yep, that's the type. Frequently very effective. REALLY ought to change your oil afterwards.