rallyruss

you mean somthing like this? talk to WJM. see if he has any leftover. he had the adaptors. the rest (lines,fittings,and cooler) are up to you. as you can see I went a little over board. oh and yes it will help lower you engine temp a little bit. you still need a properly functioning cooling system too.

crutchfield has them. try this link http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jmr6Uohvybp/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?c=11&g=112200&s=0&cc=01&avf=Y&search=

whata cute little blue bastard:cool:

that sounds like an interesting approach. hope it has the desired effet:brow:

most flat VW motors do not get bored. the cylinders and pistons come as a replacable set. I have a real nice set waiting to be assembled right now. just need the time and garage space.

is that the same as pismo beach? sounds like fun but I cant make it. proposal at the beach? you better be there by your self for that. and makesure you have the right one. I am happy as a married man but I have seen others make the wrong choices. Have you lived together for a while? well good luck and have fun

that sounds good now if I could ony find a way to keep the dog fur from sticking to my seats I would be happy.

If you really feel it needs to be bored make sure you get the over sized pistons first. they can be done by a creative machine shop but almost none will have a torque plate to fit that motor. I had one done once (no torque plate) and it did not last long at all 54 miles:banghead: the machine shop I took it to later said that it was bored too tight. if the taper and out of round is not bad I would just hone and reassemble with new rings and bearings. I wasted a LOT of $$$$ trying to do the bad arse rebuild only to have it fail. could just be my bad luck but be aware of the situation.

its hard to help diagnose a motor that is torn down and not in front of me(or any one else) If I understand correctly I would give you three things. most have been covered already. first- the cam timing off has to be the most obvious. make sure you have it correct. I have messed it up more than once. second- the lifter issue. but you would have heard a lot of lifter noise if that was the case. third- blown head head gasket. improper torque method? over torqued? if you are running delta cams you will have lower compression readings as well. just keep that in mind. what was wrong with the motor originaly? I may have missed that part.

order the correct dryer. and have a vacume pulled on the system before you charge it. this helps make sure there are no leaks or moisture left in the system. I f you do it the wall mart kit way you will have a decreased a/c system life. the oil type you want to use is called PAG oil. there are listings for how much you will need to add. If you are doing this with out gauges it will be a bit dificult to determine if you have charged it correctly and if the compressor is working properly.

I have seen it on heavy equipment. I am not to familiar with the sube A/T set up. but I dont really see how it would happen with out some leakage as well. I suppose it may be possible but I will leave that to an A/T expert.

well yeah I am going to "diss this mod" it freakin died! a long way from home. less than a year old. not a race car. just my daily driver. funny that the old coil lasted 200,000+ miles without issue and the accel died in under 10,000. oh it was a yellow coil not chrome. and I never really noticed a power gain anyway. I wanted to to justify the purchase. If you want to run an accel, fine. I just reccomend carrying a good stock coil. I appear to not be the only one that has been let down. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12600&page=1&pp=10&highlight=accel+coil chose wisely young subewalkers thats ony one link about failed accel coils there are more. my parts guy told me I was wasting my money. I told him that lots of subes run em with sucess. guess I was wrong. stock coil for me. If some one has real data to prove there is a better more reliable option out there let me know. untill then I go back to what I used to say. whats wrong with the one on there?

the coil is only about 6 months old and I have beat on the car a little bit but not much. I had no dificulty fitting it in the bracket either. just gradualy went kaput. the long drive must have pushed it over the edge. still lame. I dont know what the count is on dead accel coils but its far to high for me to ever run one again. shannon I am going to start on your stuff soon. I will let you know whats up with the old ones. you want to wait on the new ones? PM me.

on my trip down to work at Rim of the world Rally. I was climbing some good long hills. car starts to misfire. it get worse as I go. finally as we get to the hotel and meet with the team it wont run.:-\ well after geting the rally car all preped and ready. I decided to swap coils with my old one that I kept in the back. after coil swap no problem. It ran 300+ miles home with no problems. these accel coils are a down grade part. junk. problem waiting to happen. I was lucky and had kept my old coil with me and made it to the hotel before it completely died. I can se it getting towed because of this crappy coil. my mind is made up. If you guys still want to run them I recomend that you carry a spare.

well resistance testing is not the best option in my opinion. I just recently added a good 45 min. to a job due to resistance tests gone bad. I would recomend checking voltage. back probe on the signal side.(key on) stone cold motor should have 4.6V aprox. start motor and watch the voltage drop. down to 1v or less at operating temp.

I used black plastic plumbing to get my instalation set up roughly. then went to steel and stainless. you really want to keep the flex points rather short. coolant hose will not do well. rember you will be dealing with vacume, pressure, heat, and oil. get prebent tubeing and silicone couplers.it helps to acess to a welder too.

referance voltage check I assume you have acess to a wire diagram? if not look for the round conector on the tps. it has three wires. ground, 5v ref, and the tps signal. black, red, and white. black is ground, red is signal, and white is 5v ref. use a volt meter and have fun. if you get stuck let me know. XR4- 87 carb with no o2 is eiter modified and codes will do you no good or never had a o2 and therefore no codes.

odd comp thanks for keeping that around for me. all talk I run 25deg timing. thats what my book calls for on the turbo motor in 1987. it says 20deg is the SPFI spec. later years it shows 20 for the turbo. hmm mabey I have some bad info. I have tried 26-27 deg and it was not happy. that was with 91 octane fuel.

does the car run at all? that many codes tells me you have a power/ground problem. start by checking your referance voltage(5v) and ground at an easy location. you can do it as the under dash connector if im not mistaken. or at the tps if you dont want to look it up.

ok so I got my but in gear and did some testing of my own. differnt conditions than all talk. test one- temp at intercooler outlet ambient temp 80 degF cruise outlet air temp 90 degF 0 to 60 at full boost high temp of 124 degF test two- temp at intercooler inlet ambient temp 84 degF cruise temp 140 degF 0 to 60 at close to full boost( traffic in the way) high of 229 this is not scientific by any means but it was fairly acurate. and tells me that my IC is droping 100deg under boost conditions. now to really make an accurate assesment of the IC performance I would need to get pressure readings on both sides of the cooler as well. this would give me an accurate assesment of my actual power gain. so once agian I will say that a properly installed intercooler is one of the biggest performance and relyability parts you can install. along with the usual intake and exhaust mods. yes this car does have a 2.5 exhaust and mild intake mods. thanks to all talk for making me actually get out there and do some testing. edit: here is an old pic of the IC its a little nicer plumbing now.http://users.adelphia.net/~oddcomp/turboroo.htm

I know the higher amperage is a enticing draw to these alternators but I will issue a little warning. the bearings are rather small and tend to go kaput on this style of alternator as well as some other heat/durablity issues. GM has moved on from that design due to the problems with it. the ND alt. is a rather durable unit in comparison.

the one in question is made by fluke for flukes . really easy to use just slip it inbetween the hose and run it. I have one as well I have used it in cooling system aplications but not in the intake yet. I will give some input when I find time to test stuff. Alltalk are you running multiple point at the same time?

cool info. I assume you are going to re test after an Intercooler instalation? you are using the little flexible temp wire that comes with the fluke? I have that same part and could do a test on my intercooler to see how much temp it actually drops.

AH tex you are right on line. well evryone is. WJM that was a great set up for an oil cooler sale. Thats a good thing as I have one of those adaptors all set up on my car from you. It now runs cooler on a day like today with close to 100 deg. temps and the A/C on. as for my turbo timer it is also a boost guage and knows when you have been running hard. It alters you idle time off of that. I make a lot of short trips so my base setting is at 30 sec. after a good drive I may see closer to 60 sec. yes coking is the term.

well dont know what to tell you. I have seen motors where the bearings were shot and there was glitter in the oil. then again my EA82t has less than 20,000 miles on it and I get glitter in the oil now. I called CCR and they said its common. I still am afraid of the dreaded knock knock knock. but Its still running good as of now. gonna get crackin on my spare motor soon. if it has good oil pressure keep running it.