rallyruss

yeah It runs. it leaks oil. it has some wear and tear but really not that bad overall. I was trying to get 1,000 for it (a little less than I put into it) I would like to keep it but I have 7 cars at my house now 5 are mine 4 run 3 registered.... well you get the picture. some of them need to go. espically the ones that are not mine and the ones like the RX that I only use every once in a while. I just had all these motor parts around and figured I would build one up for fun. The wagon does not need it. I figure the RX is the best canidate.

The dash pot on the throttle return will not be sufficient for increased boost. mine dont work at all any way. go with a bypass set up. bosh type works well. if you use a wrx IC the factory one is really good.

seems how I cannot seem to get ANY offers on my RX I will be building it up a little and then beat it into the ground. might as well get some fun out of it before it has to go. so far I have a decent set of rebuilt heads(with the little cracks). A good used block. A set of pistons (thanks garner) new nipon rings and all the bearings. plan so far is to attempt balancing the rods and piston my self. I just ordered a set of head STUDS:brow: I will be fabricating my own up pipe and possibly down as well. and there will be an IC involved here(hopefully a FMIC) now I need suggestions on turbo selections, copperHG or not,and spider intake or not. and does any one have a source for some of these things? I am using the stock cams. I would like to use the VF11 legacy turbo but cannot find any. most likely going WRX turbo at this rate. I do have a SDS EFI system that I may use or trade for parts. It would need to be set up for the turbo application. now obviously this will not be a smog legal car here in CA any more so it will be up for grabs again or parted out by next year. most likely parted out if the lack of interest over the last 8+ months is an indicator of what to expect. now rember this is fairly LOW budget so lets keep the ideas reasonable. Thanks guys

I did not mean any disrespect just stating the facts.

coolbeans. thats the name of the coffee shop I go to.

link no good here. first pic too fuzzy/dark to tell whats up. well Im not that concerned I will wait. not worth talking about what you dont know and cant see. :-\

well I got the movie no problem:cool: looks like fun. too bad about the lack of decent open land out there. its happening everywear. I wont get all political because I know thats a forbiden topic. but I will say there are battles being fought all around the country for land use. As you say its usually a few A holes that ruin it for everyone else.

GO AS FAST AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT HITTING CONES:grin: edit- sorry bout the caps. not tring to yell. crappy keyboard at work. but seriously work on late apex turns. thats the good stuff. I used low range but it dosent really matter. track by track they are different.

pressure in a 134a system lo is 13, and hi is 180 I am not sure what you are getting at here. thats more than a bit vague. there are lots of pressures that vary greatly depending on conditions. it also depends on what side you are looking at. engine running or not.

get a spark tester from your local parts store to test spark. or just set the coil wire near a good ground(away from fuel) and look for a nice BLUE spark. orange is no good. if you haver this your belts are still in good shape most likely as well as the coil, driver ect. I assume its TBI or should I say SPFI:rolleyes: if so you can look at the injector while cranking and see if it squirts. or give it a squirt of carb spray your self and see if it kicks over. if it does you need fuel. check the fuel pump to see if its evin running.

I will also say check your EGR because it is designed to reduce CYL temps. my85 GL was verry prone to pinging. I did the sea foam and the water method. yes the watter method works but be verry carefull because yes there is a chance of hydralocking. any way after all that was done my car still pinged unless I retarded the timing. It was better but not fixed. have you tried higher octane fuel? and I also say Bosh plugs are great.... in a german car. use NGK. the bosh heat ranges are usually incorrect. that may be part of the problem as well.

change parts then pull a vacume. it helps with the charging too. good points from red lance and noahdl88

If you cannot drop the drive shaft you only have one other option and thats the motor forward or out. do you have an enging hoist? you may be able to pull it forward with the fans out of the way and some other stuff disconected. I would suggest just pulling it so you can work in there easy and inspect the pressure plate and clutch. when I did it I went tranny back. what a heavy bugger

if you drain the compressor and then have a the lines evacuated after you will be all good. and dont be too concerned about the old hoses leaking. the old oil that has soaked in to them tend to help seal em up. but do try to find yor leak. look for oil and dirt by fittings or at the compressor.

to do it properly you would have changed the reciver dryer. you have residual oil and moisture in the system that shuold have been evacuated by pulling and holding a vacume on the system. that is most likely why it will not charge. did you fix the leak? you also should have drained the oil from the compressor and added new pag oil. there are more things to check but its too late for all that. you should be using high and low side gauges as well with the ability to understand the readings. I dont like the POS wall mart kits because they mislead people into thinking that the change over will be a simple job easy to do at home with no special equipment. IF all goes well you may be able to buy a year or maby two at the most of decent A/C operation. sorry to rant but as an auto tech I find it troubling to see these things on the market. there is no place for them in a responsible auto repair market. its like slick 50 or tune up in a can. all junk designed to get your money and not fix your car properly.

um no:-p you may not need to pull the motor completely. I was able to do a rear main seal on the side the road once. not fun but I got it done with a minimal amout of tools in under 4 hours. that said in a nice garage with tools and floor jacks Ect. it should be no problem. you may have a problem with the return spring or the clutch adjutment. that my be what killed it in the first place. I cannot visualize what cotter pins go in there but there are two little spring clips that hold the bearings in place.

are you looking at high side or low side pressures? did you have it evacuated properly? it sounds like your compressor is ok but you may have skiped some steps in the change over. at least to do it properly. not the walmart kit way.

ah I see. Thanks Emily;) measured at the skirt of the piston I would assume?

bumpin:-\ come on anyone have a clue what I am talking about? guess all the brain power has drifted away from here.

Well usually I am a skeptic about power gains with add on stuff but in this case I can honestly say I see a difference. my wagon with the vw intercooler drops 100 degrees F before it enters the throttle body. it has minimal plumbing to sap efficency. in comparison to the RX that is set up the same with the exception of the intercooler there is a verry noticable difference. the wagon that is heavyer and has larger tires is definately quicker. personally I feel its an incomplete system without it. ok so how many new turbo vehicles of any kind come without an intercooler? I can only think of one and its a little industrial deisle.

ok so if I have 4 pistons with the "B" stamp. on the case I am going to use I have 3 "B" stamps and one "C" stamp. I dont have acess to a mic to measure the differnce in size yet. does any one know how much the sizing will be off? I sliped the piston in both the B and C holes and cannot see or feel much differance. I know I need to do some actual measurements. this is on an EA82T motor.

Soobme is that a dedicated shop for powdercoating? do they strip and clean parst to be coated? The reason I ask is because I need my front bumper done. the rattle can job I did sucks. Brian if you find someone local (or if I find one first) we should get our parts done. sorry for the hijack hope it helps sell your cool products. I would be interested but I do my own fab work.

Red Line makes synthetic oils and other cool products. I am being verry careful here as I know that this can start a whole new debate. RedLine water wetter is a product that you add to the coolant with say a 30/70 coolant/water mixture. it is like a heat transfer aid and lubercant for the WP. it sounds as though you have a fan problem.

fans opperate ok? is it all the time or only at low/high speed? what about your timing? incorrect timing will cause you to run hot as well. if all that is good go for it put a oil cooler system on. I put one on because I use the A/C on long hot trips sometimes in the mountians. It did help keep my system cooler. you are running a 50/50 mix of coolant and soft water? Red Line makes water wetter that sometims helps too.

what you described is not a fuel miss. its a spark misfire. actually sounds like what my POS accel coil did when it died on me. if it were lean you would not have carbon on the plugs. thats from a rich mixture or unburnt. it would be white. also the puff of smoke is fuel that was not burnt geting dumped into the hot cat. if it were lack of fuel it would be a softer feeling missfire with out smoke or poping. A Ignition miss will hapen under load especially off the line or high speed. O2 is not going to be you problem. If you want I can help you check the o2 (and fuel system). but I am rather certian you will find the problem in the ignition system. do you still have the stock wires and coil? if so swap em back on. personally I dont like the accel wires but nobody likes to hear that. good luck.