rallyruss

check this side pic. thanks again to soobme for the great bumper idea. and now I keep the beatings to a minimum. this is primarily my daily driver/camping car/snow vehicle. I try to save the beating for my toyota pickup. I have a few other changes but they were not so easy or cheap (intercooled custom 2.5exhaust all the way out from the turbo)

no D/R:( 14" pugeot wheel bolt on. I lifted the rear a bit using the stiffer springs from the front of a honda accord. also a bolt on. posted previously. had to clearance just a little bit inside the fenders. working on a small front lift to match rear right now.

I cant take credit for the design I saw a pic of soobme's bumper and designed my own version of it. took a lot of time trying to get it all to bolt up correctly and fit the contour of the front of the car. I want to add a skid plate that will come off the bottom of the bumper and go under the car some day soon. and driving/fog lights.

tires are brigstone dualer A/T 195/75r14 good tread yet still handles good and are not noisy. will find out how they like snow tomarow. scoop is custom made out of fiberglass.

its all set for the snow this sunday. supposed to dump. can't wait to get out there.

alot of good lists here I would just like to add a good quality DVOM. cooling system pressure tester. compression tester. timing light. inspection mirror and flashlight. magnetic pick up tool to find lost nuts and sockets. just a few important things of the trouble shooting/ tuning nature.

if I were to guess without any more info. I would look at the removed sensor for charicteristics like,does it have a "button" on the end that depresses like a rerverse switch switch would? one or two wire connecter? ( probably a reverse switch) or a 3+ wire connecter and no button that depresses. go easy on jumpering wires together untill you know you have the propper ones in hand. some thing dont take kindly to jumpering all willy nilly. but old subarus are rather forgiving.

ok I think the link will work for everyone now. give it a try. ok answers to questions. baccaruda- yup its later. home sic from work ( lower back not good today) the bard- advntage is a stiffer spring and sits higher if thats what you want. as for ease of instalation its not to bad. stut assys. need to come appart using a spring compressor. I just undid the top bolt on the junk yard car with the strut hanging and let it loose. dont do this unless you fully understand what can happen. then you disassemble the stock rear subaru assy. and install your springs from the front of the honda accord on the subaru strut cartrige. jwx- what am I missing soobme- it has kyb struts (non adjustable) aplication is from another year/model as kyb is not alowed to sell the replacements for my car because they make them for subaru. stupid legal issues ok the dog keeps whining about a walk. gotta go hope this helps. will try to post some more recent pics tonight.

lightened fly wheels are good for getting a motor to rev. up quicker. like for street racing or auto/rally cross. not good at all for you off road type. when I had my VW fly wheel lightened they took it all off the clutch side. it was a mild weight reduction dont know actuall weight.

ok I have to dissagree on this. I had almost the identical problem on the RX when I first picked it up and was sure that the only fix was a tear down and rebuild. just to get the car in shape to run for a while I changed the fluid to red line MTL. after a few good drives the grind is completely gone. shifts great now. I have done this to a few other cars with similar results. It may not work in all cases. GD does have a good point. that is the same stuff i learned back in school too. tranny rebuilding sucks. save that as a last resort and try the MTL first.

send out the heads if you can find a low cost machine shop. I trust a freshly resurfaced head with a real valve job over a home clean up job. as for that block. machining it would be a bit expensive if you can find some one to do it. I would just do a overhaul if all things are within specs. new rings and bearings. there are a few tricky parts when tearing down the short block. you have a repair manuel correct? you will need it. things that troubled me were getting the 14 mm wrist pin plugs out and then the pins. some creativity is needed here. if the head gaskets are still stuck to the block you will miss the last hidden case bolt in the middle. (not that I ever had that problem) its a bit tricky to properly seal the case during the reassembly. you have to be really carefull where the sealant goes as you can plug the oil pump passages if too much in the wrong place is applied. you need a good 3/8 torque wrench. good luck and welcome:wave:

I use red line MTL and 75/90 in manny differant vehicles. MTL works wonders in a M/T. new cars old cars they all like it.

ok so like the alphabet goes A before B. yes I made that mistake once and the guy at the muffler shop made fun of it. said a rookie must have installed it. A = inlet B= outlet peas, russ

knock control unit retards the timing when the knock sensor outputs a voltage signal to it. the knock sensor is a signal generator so just disconect it if you think that were it. I would be looking at the temp sensor circit really close they are prone to corosion ect. and can cause the symptom you describe. if you have a volt meter take a look at the voltage out puted by the o2 sensor when the high voltage (.9v) means rich (.1) lean steady.5 is the referance voltage sent out by the ecu. check hot . I think you will find high resistance on the cooling temp sensor circit. that tells the car that it is frezing its bearings off cold and needs more fuel. I recently was working on my toy pu and forgot to reconect the temp sensor. ran so rich that it would barely idle.

im game hoping to ride during the holidays if some real snow comes. january is good too. cheers. Russ

I took the school from those guys down here. good info if you are serious about rally. not to expensive. the whole weekend was less than 100.00 for the class and a rally X event. but that was partialy sponsered by subaru. lots of rally speciffic info for those of us aspring to get into a club rally car.

my old carbed 85 gl needed to run at 5deg. to keep from pinging. could have been a disty problem but it ran just fine at that timing. no not a lot of power but thats why I now have a turbo car (or two)

just cleaning the contacts is a temp fix. you will notice that the copper is burnt away not just corroded. not to say i have not done this to get a car going in a pinch but to really get a full life out of it you should change the contacts.

I could probably swing a week day with enough notice. no not much mud right now. need more rain. or snow:banana: gotta go boarding soon. it was cold and clear. any way let me know or stormtrooper (Don) he lives just a few miles from the park. Russ

storm trooper and I did a little camp and wheel at our local OHV park this weekend. he was sporting his loyal and I had my toyota 4x4 out to play. people were looking at him like he was crazy to take a car out there..... untill he climbed his way up a nasty little hill full of rocks and ruts. they all started cheering for him. people really like to see subes kick arse. he could have gone a lot further if he had gears and a locked rear. but he did good on driver ability out there. after he left i met up with some guys in other toys and cherokees and found some sick trails. a bit to tough for the average sube. trucks had tires 4 feet off the ground just to get over the obsticals. I am more than willing to go out and help any crazy wheein subes thru if any one is down for it. I had not gone for a while and forgot how much fun it is to go out and twist and scrape a 4x4. guess I have been playing on smooth dirt too much.

there was a link to the FSM for a 89 ea82 and more up here a while back. I thought junkie was going to add it to the repair manuel? any way it had a breif description of the operation of the boost control system and I think it did say that the sensor controled fuel cut. could be wrong ( dam short term memory) hope that link is still around It was verry usefull.

GD is correct, there are updated bushings for the shifters to eliminate the rattle. go to the sube dealer. I need to do the same thing to mine just not serious enough to fix yet.

in OZ and NZD thats all over the place. of course they are for kangaroos. and yeah the make em in smaller roo size versions. I just made my own:brow:

if you can find starter parts the most common thing is the two copper contacts in the back of the starter wear out . solinod usually is fine. hammer smacking will eventually get you In more trouble.

jdub close enough. the dist is really easy to move one tooth. you do not need to pullit out all the way. in fact I dont evin bother with lining up #1. I have done it a few times now. but the part you need to be concerned about rotating is the rotor. it is attached to the gear not the body of the disty. so pop of cap. mark location of dist AND rotor incase you get messed up. remove the 2 bolts that hold in the disty and using both hands, one on the dist. body and one on the rotor. pull up untill you can rotate the dist shaft freely. rotate it a bit in wich ever direction you decide it needs to go and push it down again. the rotor will turn as you pull it out dot let it confuse you. rallykeith is right too but I have a really easy way to check that too. using a timing light to check #1 tdc then clip onto the companion cyl. and check timing. it should be the same. I think its #4? could be wrong bout that but you can verify by tring it. my 85 gl ea82 carbed was good arond 5 deg.