rallyruss

I have seen many motors from "PROFESSIONAL" engine builders come with problems. So it is not unlikly that yous did too. overheated once? that could potentially be a bad deal. It could have been something as simple as rings installed improperly. How is/was the oil consumption? blow by? did you do a wet compression test yet? and rember turbo motors will have low compression to begine with. I built a motor once that lasted 54 miles. I never was able to figure out if it was the machine shops fault or mine. probably a bit of both. after that I bought a CCR engine and its been happy since then. I will be building a motor again but this time just for fun. sorry to hear about your troubles I hope it gets straightened out ok.

.02 ok its bad to run ghetto oil. its worse to run multiple types of oil. pick a brand and stick with it. if you want to go heavy in summer and lighter in winter thats your choice but thats why they have multigrade oils. And PLEASE for your cars well being run a decent oil filter. there was a recent discussion on filters that was verry informative. the price differance between a good oil change and a crappy one is about the same as a 6pack. so you can have a couple of beers and add to your beer gut:drunk: or you could add many more miles to your sube before needing a motor changed. hmmmm... I like beer but I like keep my cars running well better. ok thats all

bubleing out the overflow bottle hopefully is just a bad rad cap or yes it could be a headgasket. my RX misfires a little on start up but the wagon does not. I suspect its the lower compression on the RX that does it. somthing else you may want to consider is a leaking injector. they will usually run alright but then leak down while sitting.

I never heard of disconecting the throttle body air sensor. mabey I missed something. you do need to connect the green connectors. if you have an XT they should be in the trunk. a genral rule of thumb is not to go more than 2 deg. beyond the specs. some have tried more with some sucess I assume. you wont find me risking my motor over a little power though.

after you check the cables. go get the battery tested. most parts stores will do it at no charge. a bad battery or one begining to fail can do things just like you mentioned. let me guess it was cold too?

just a thought if this is a stock set up there should be no need to get all crazy with custom hoses and the like. lots of time hoses are "cut to fit" if I am guessing correctly you are working on the upper hose from the t.stat housing? most of the time those come a little long and need a little triming to fit properly. be more specific what kind of car? what hose? what kind of hose did you get and from where? Partsman is correct about getting a parts person that knows how to open a book. I used to do parts years ago. a dificult job with plenty of stress.

clear flood mode is verry common on just about all makes of cars. so yes intrigueing is correct in the statement about clear flood. I have been a tech. for almost 10 years but only learned of this a few years back. It is understandable if poeple have never heard of it. it is just a little bit of logic built in to protect the engine and cats. think what could hapen if cars did not have this safety feature?

hey baccaruda have anyone else tried my spring conversion? anyway torxxx if you want to attempt the honda spring job its cheap, fits with no mods, rides stiffer espically with a load. do a search on it if interested. my springs came off the front of a 88 accord hatch. these with a good set of kyb's and yor set. KYB has some strange listings for some subes or none at all. but they do make them and they are probably the best thing avail.

take a small punch and tap the crack untill it is closed. it is still there but less likely to cause problems.

anaerobic sealer comes in a lot of different types. what I would sugest is permatex ultra grey. it meets the import specs for sealant. I have had good luck with it. go easy applying it to the case halfs espically near the oil pump. and yes it is a type of anaerobic sealer. as for the piston pin tool. I made my own as well. you just dont want to scratch up the piston pin bore when removing the pin. The pins are really tough it would take a lot to damage them.

I am seling a Rx as well. a little south but if you are interested I need to sell it. I was asking 1500.00 and all I heard was crickets so now I guess I will take what ever sounds reasonable. I have pics.

I get them from a independent shop localy. If you cant do that just order the ones from online. shipping should not be too bad.

before you shot gut some parts. lift the wheel of the ground enough to fit a bar or pipe under the wheel. take the long bar or pipe and pry up under the wheel. watch the ball joint while doing this. if it moves a good bit its bad if it just barely moves it probably ok. usually a bad ball joint will give you clunking when driving over bumps. the wheel bearing you have to recognize the sound. It may be like a drone that changes with speed and turning. if it is bad enough there will also be play when wigling the wheel. you are correct about not being able to detect it by spining the wheel unless it is really bad. you say it sounds like a grinding noise? check the backing plate. makesure its not touching the rotor.

go to the link that I posted and click on ignition wires. thats just a place I found on line. I get them from my local parts store.

yeah ATF cleans well and is thinner. I belive it allows the air and oil to trade spaces easier. as for the spec I never checked it specficly. I just went by feel.

.5 hmmm.. its been a while but I think it was a little less movement than that. they dont become solid but definatly tighter. I think the ATF helps a bit. like I mentioned if you were to assemble them with the check ball assy upside down they will never pump up properly. I did that once and then had to pull the lifter after the motor was installed.

wow you really have gone deep into the world of the lifter. all I have needed to to do in the past is. 1 disassemble and clean 2 reassemble CORRECTLY ( or they will never hold pressure) 3 submerge in ATF and pump them to get the air out. 4 sometimes they will still tick on start up untill the car runs a while

you get what you pay for. like I said I would go with the NGK. really good quality decent price. not sure if this is the correct set for you but a good example. http://www.ignition-system.com/ignition_wire-subaru-loy_4wd_001-1985-parts.html

NGK wires alwasy fit well for me and last a lot longer than most brands. they have more durable insulation. no too long too short BS either. the napa Belden wires are not bad if you cannot find NGK. another one I have heard of but not used yet are the magnacore wires. supposed to be really good.

Ed, not always. I got totally confused working on a vw jetta with a air in system problem. it turned out to be the height sensing valve in the rear sucking in air but not the slightest indication of a leak.

what you described is what a ignition miss feels like. the code would seem to back that up. check to see if power and ground are good to the disty ect. sounds like a bad pick up. I can check the wiring diagram if you need more specifics.

looks alright to me. probably not as strong as the stock set up would be. but plenty strong enough for a bad arse justy. what did you use to cut the plate? keep it up looks like fun.

I would think that californians would have more trouble with details like this but I guess not. ours is verry simple. stock 2wd, open 2wd, stock 4wd and open 4wd. it seems to work well for us. most people that I have met doing this are just out to have fun. Its too bad you guys have so much friction with an event like this. hope you guys can just enjoy it and have a good time. I might be going up to purchase a club rally car in oregon soon. mabey I could get a rally X in as well.

I would be verry suspicious of the master cyl. I have had cars with old master cylinders get brake work done and then not bleed out the air properly before as well. most of the time it is the master cyl. that is at fault. now you may be thinking but it worked before why not now? think about this. you might not have changed the fluid verry often like most people forget to do. it absorbed moisture and started corroding the inside of the cyl. bore. not the part used everyday but the front portion. so when you went to bleed the brakes you pump the piston into the portion of the cyl. bore that it normally does not visit. In doing so the seals are damaged allowing air to get pulled into the cyl. when pumping the brake. this may not be the case. the hill hoder could be at fault or something else as well but a new master cyl. is cheap and easy to install. oh yeah dont buy any reman master cyl. they just don't last trust me. oh yeah to prevent this from hapening dont pump n bleed. use the gravity method as snowman said or use a suction device if you cannot get it to flow. if you really want to pump it use hooligans advice and pump slow and steady. one pump one bleed. as for copper washers we reuse them all the time at work because on lots of vehicles the old ones seal better than the new ones. might not be text book but it work for us. good luck

WJM, I didnt say not to do it. I am just shareing what little I know. by all means go for it an and let us know how it runs. I should have also mentioned that I am running a modified down pipe on the RX and a subespeed one on thw wagon. they both help performance a good bit.