rallyruss

did you or your mechanic check what fuel pressure actually did? that would tell you alot right there. before you replace parts(too late) Iwould look at fuel pressure. my last instructor would not answer a drivability question untill you had checked fuel pressure.

retorquing the heads? I thought that was only necessary on the older motors. I read that if you do the inital steps corectly then you are done. I would be concerned about head gasket problems if I torqued them again. I have seen other types of cars head gaskets fail due to improer/over torquing. as for the oil pressure put a real gauge on the pump and recheck it. dont trust the cars gauge. and yeah it may need a reseal. yeah the cam covers suck but its alot easyer the second time. I have been there. nor cal where?Kalo

chech to see if the sensor is connected. may just be a bulb out. I disconected mine and installed a boost gauge. it got a bit anoying after a while like those cars with a shift up light.

unfortunately no. we get stuck with some rather lame cars compared to what you guys have over there. I am sure you can see that already. just think about your utes back home compared to our suvs. 90% of those suvs are just a glorified car. and come on wheres the desil? only full size trucks get that here. I want a 4x4 with straight axles and a turbo dsl. that dose not come in "super size" now that I think about it was there a good reason to come here? ah but at least we now get the STI , the GTO (a Holden at heart) lancer EVO and audi RS6:burnout:

well I never had it hapen before like that. when I was a kid my dad gave me a CV joint in pieces and told me to put it back together. It was doable. I would get it all cleaned up and see if its going to live or need replacement. mabey that was part of your original problem? or did you twist the joint too far?

welcome to CA. I just went to AU and NZD this summer. I had a great time there. people were really nice. and then I got back home:( what part of CA? I had a rental falcon while I was there. I also had a new holden vectra;) .

when you say buzzed you mean impact gun? or air ratchet? I have found that impact guns work wonders here. or like the Q man says look for a small gripable tab at the top or a hex.

so let me get this straight. you want to take a pefectly good EFI system that CAN pass smog and is reliable off. And then you want to put on a CIS system that definately will not pass smog on? hmmm... I have worked on a lot of VW's and volvo's they are great when they run well but when there are problems with that system it is a bit more complicated to trouble shoot than EFI. Im going against the flow here if you want to butcher this car. leave it for some one who will fix it up right. those are totaly a rare thing here in CA. unless its a total beater already. and yes if it is a sticky valve it will change your compression test readings.

if amy one else here has ever driven trucks that is how you shift all the time. if you wanted to use the clutch You have to doube clutch. I have done it in the car just to show people that its possible but I dont recomend doing it all the time. changing a clutch is cheaper than a tranny. there is the version used in racing where uppon a hard down shift (with the clutch) you rev. the motor to match speed and save your synchros so much trouble.

shrot answer: buy a turbo car long answer: yes with a complete motor, harness, ECU

stock replacement of the cat applies to OBDII cars (96 and up) if your car was supposed to have a cat the limits are lower. If you can beat that great but I would not count on it. The inspector that lets a weber get past him would be out of a job in no time. I reply to this because I am a licensed smog tech.

you might want to clarify this a bit. they don't run "dirty" what I think you were tring to explain was the cycling of the O2 and its relation to the cat. they bounce back and forth between lean and rich verry quickly to make the cat work most efficietly yes. this is why if you look at data or a signal of a good hot O2 it will cycle up and down. if you just fed the cat a rich mixture all the time you eventually will get a dead cat. sorry to get all crazy but I take diagnossis to heart and want others to understand whats up.

been there fixed that. Its a bit sketchy but I put a jack under the hub and lifted untill things would slide together. BE CAREFUL.

I would check the IAC (idle air control) valve. maby the temp sensor.

Brian I have a CA smog license. If you need some advice specific to our CA emissions testing let me know. And to answer your actual question. YES. adding a cat will help. There are a lot of other thing involved but if the car was a boarderline fail a cat would help. Nvzeno is correct about getting a pretest. its a good idea.

ok so I hit the JY today. first i looked at a 92 loyal and saw the differenrt connector. then a 87 xt looked real similar to mine but it did not feel smooth. so i found a 87 turbo wagon A/T. It spins good and has the same conector but the cap is the type with the clips like a VW. I have not had time to install it yet. I will try this weekend. They all had some little differances (part #as well) is the advance the same on all ea82 motors?

miles - The car runs fine. it has made this same noise for the 12000 miles I have had it put together. nothing new just noticed it changed tone when I loosened the dist. bolts. GD - when the motor was apart the disty was ok. spun good with minimal play in the shaft. If you ever heard a toyota on nissan truck with a worn out timing chain its a little like that.

GD what were your symptoms? did you have noise? ShawnW timing was ok, I was just messing with it. I bumped it up 2 deg. and now it pings. I need to put it back tonight after work. I am a little pissed at distributors right now. I am having a terrible time tring to get a sonoma at work properly set. I neglected to mark the crank position when dissassembling now its all back together and wont fire properly:mad: but thank you for the response guys.

alrighty then guess its just my car. I will swap some parts and see what hapens.

Huh:confused: the turbo outlet and the intercooler? that would be totaly pointless. turbo INlet and intercooler now that would work just fine. thats how mine is plumed.

no they cant use turn signals, talk on the phone and drink thier non fat tripple whip chi tea latte at the same time either. looking in the mirrors also proves to be dificult under these circumstances.

sounds like a flasher. the lights come on and no blinky right? easy one to fix.

not too dificult. soak it with penitrating oil first. some times they need a bit of persuasion.

the motor has had a noise coming from the left cyl. head eversince I put the car together. it runs well and now has 12,000 miles on the motor and the noise is still there. not much change. Today I was checking the timing and when I losened the dist. the noise changed. I would hate to put in a new disty and still have the noise. Has any one had any thing like this happen? solutions? this is on the 87 gl10wagon ea82T

I agree with what WJM has to say. some good point in there. I also have to say that my intercooler is probably the best mod. I have done to my car. It adds power and safety to the system. so to back up Rallykeith ( wierd my dad is named Keith ) I think the intercooler shold be a little higher on the list of prioritys. might save money on all that race gas. Tex I see you are verry facinated with getting more fuel. have you had troubles running lean? and I read about that injector mod. I dont fully trust what they are doing. our injectors are the pintle type. actually a simpler design with less problems. noah, on a turbo car higher octane also alows higher boost.