swiftt

Sweet! I'm actually going the same route with my '79 Brat within the next couple years. It's an ideal platform because it's so light and there's a ton of space for battery frames to be built under the bed. I don't know where you're at in the process but can't you just put the tranny back in and measure? Have fun with it!

Sweet. If the fronts still lock first, sounds like you'll have a workable setup when all has tested out. You'll have to put a couple hundred varied miles on it and report back as to their performance. I'd definately be interested in hearing. Regards

Nice work! How much have you driven it since? Are you still using the stock master cylinder? How is the bias between front/rear now? Have you had any trouble with the rears locking up?

It's hard to tell what it is from the pics. As stated previously, through '79 there was an external water crossover between the halves of the crankcase. It'd be located directly under and parallel with the intake if it's there. From '80 on, the crossover is cast into the crankcase and is seen as a 'bulge' in the same area directly beneath the intake. Whether it's from US or Japan is irrelevent with regard to this. Some later Japanese engines have hydraulic lifters too. You can tell by looking for stickers on the valve covers that say "don't adjust valves" (of course stickers can be removed). I've got two low-mileage Japanese engines. One in my '79 truck and one as a spare. Both have hydraulic lifers but one has black valve covers and one has blue like yours. If you get it running, you may be surprised to find they keep up with traffic just fine. No race car but fast enough (for me anyway) and excellent mileage. Have fun with it!

Yup, should be an EA71 with Hitachi carb. With regard to the carb, I don't think they're bad per say. The real weakness is their reliance on vacuum for the solenoids. The stock vacuum hose setup is a rat's nest and vulnerable to leaks from every angle. Provided there aren't any vacuum leaks, the carbs perform relatively well though. I put a Webber 32/36 DGEV on my '79 and eliminated all the vacuum lines. Pretty staight forward conversion. The only thing really worth mentioning is the coolant port that sits right under the carb base on the stock manifold. You'll have to block this off somehow. In my case, I threaded it with a 3/8" NPT tap and screwed in a corresponding 1" long grub screw coated in permatex. I also had to fiddle with the jetting of the Webber to get it dialed in right and advance the timing about 2* from stock. Runs like a champ now. Oops, I mean runs like a BRAT now!!! Good luck.

Which models used 14" rims and the 4x140mm pattern? I thought you had to go Pugeot or 6 hole Toyota to get a 14" rim.

Does anyone have a photo of where these break at? I'd like to get a good look and perhaps reinforce mine prior to running into any issues with it. Thank you.

Thanks for all the good info! I have an exhaust laying around from an old BMW I'll use if it comes to that. I was hoping there was some OEM stuff still around for simplicity's sake. I also like the fact that the stock system keeps peak torque in the low end of the power band. Good performance quality to have with only a single range transmission IMHO. Old Subaru's seem to go through exhaust systems quicker than anything else of the era. Maybe the tendency for leaking head gaskets is behind this? I can likely find a used windshield somewhere but I'd prefer new. Old glass tends to cloud up after years of UV exposure and I'd rather not install something that's already pointed it's useful life down that path. Again, I will if it's my only option. If you happen to know of any on-line suppliers for the parts mentioned, that would be sweet. Thanks again.

Does anyone happen to know the part # for the speedometer cable from a '79 Brat? Is this part interchangeable with the rest of the single range, 4WD tranny cars? Anyone know of somewhere a new windshield for the same Brat can be sourced? And the real challenge... How about a new, Cat-back exhaust? Thanks in advance.

I've never pulled apart a Subaru engine but I have pulled apart a lot of various automotive engines. In every application I've experienced, the crank has oil galleys that pass through it. There are exit holes drilled on the journals for oil to pass and lubricate the mains and the con-rod bearing surfaces directly. I don't have a Subaru manual with me to confirm but I can't imagine it's lubed strictly by an oil bath in an automotive application. In my mind, it would be hard to get the 300,000 miles some report out of an engine with a primitive oil bath lubricating the bottom end. The crank's oil galleys are pressurized by the oil pump. On start-up, the oil is in the pan and needs to be circulated to the engine by the pump. Until this oil reaches the crank journals, the journals are dry (of course this varies depending on how long the engine sat since last start-up) and will have a tendency to make some noise. This would be why he hears the noise until the engine oil light extinguishes. This is because the oil system pressurizes, feeds the journals and quiets them, simultaneously triggering the oil sending unit to open the circuit and extinguish the dash light. Just like magic, the engine has oil pressure. The knocking quiets in roughly the same instant the light goes out. This sequence happens in all of our cars every day. A strong oil pump, clean quality filter, clean oil, clean oil galleys, and journal bearings that are in good shape make this routine virtually inperceptible. When the oil system starts to get tired, the bearings start to wear, the symptoms described will become more and more pronounced.

I understand the apartment dilema. I've been there and it sucks! Something I've done in the past is to rent a storage unit for a couple months and do the work in there. I used this scenario to pull, and rebuild, the engine in my BMW 2002. It was not ideal but it was dry (important here in the Pacific NW) and lit throughout the evening. Most self-storage places discourage this kind of work too so discretion is the order of the day (i.e. do the work with the garage door down and clean your mess when you're done). Anyway, it's just a thought. Also, it sounds like you've never done a swap like this before. I encourage you to try anyway if you are able. Don't let your inexperience be the reason you don't do it. There are plenty of resources available to help , both here and elsewhere. Doing it is how you'll learn. As time wears on, all you learn will be invaluable in maintaining the car. You'll know how it goes together because you were the one who put it together. Good luck!

Three beautiful and versatile letters... D.I.Y.

The knock is most likely the con-rod bearings. They're making all that noise because no oil has reached them yet on the start-up. I think the oil pump would be a good place to start. I've read on this board that to reseal the oil pump is not too hard and makes a world of difference. I've never done this myself so I won't speak to it. New oil pumps are not that expensive so that's certainly an option too. Depending on what you use this car for, keep in mind that some damage has already been done to the bearings. If you only use it for groceries on Sundays, you'll probably get a lot more use out of it with only the work on the oil pump. On the other hand, if you count on this car to be reliable, you may want to start saving your pennies knowing that a bottom-end rebuild is in the future.

There is not a "one size fits all" answer. It varies depending on engine size, engine tune, ignition timing, the aircleaner you use, altitude, relative humidity, and perhaps a couple other variables that escape me. Assuming a stock engine and ignition timing, you can start with the following: Main Idle AC Pri 140 60 175 Sec 140 55 170 This is only a rough baseline to get your car started and idling. You WILL need to tune further to get the best driveability. Good luck and have fun! Regards

I own a '79 Gen1 Brat and I haven't had any problems finding stuff. It would be nice to have a dedicated Gen1 forum though since there are enough differences in the older cars to warrant it... IMHO. Not only that but us Gen1 people really don't like hearing about your EA82T, 9psi of boost, overhead cam, timing belt time bombs... Just kidding around for those who have thin skin.

I concur that a press is nice. I also say it's not necessary. In fact, I'd much rather use a drift to install myself then take it to someone else to do the work with a press. The main reason: I don't want some $10.00/hr employee who has problems with his Ex-wife and bill collectors doing work on my car. I'll do the work myself, "thank you very much!" The way the hubs are machined for the bearings, it would be difficult for anyone with any sense to seat them crooked. There is a ridge that keeps them centered and straight. When drifting them in, you can hear when they seat. As previously mentioned, the large castle nut and washer that secure the axle will also align everything in the hub as it's tightened. If your bearings fail prematurely, it's doubtful it's because they were in crooked. It's more likely they were cheap bearings (I highly recommend Timkin) or they were somehow contaminated. If you're an individual that sees no alternative to using a press, then I would suggest you go buy one. A suitable press for a home shop can be purchased from various sources for about $150.00. If you're resourceful, you can build one like I did for about 20.00 in steel, welding rod, and an old bottle jack. For these prices, it's easy to see that if you have the room to keep one, it's far more reasonable to buy one yourself than to pay someone else to use theirs. More important in the preceding scenarios, is the fact that you don't have to let anyone else put their dirty mits on your pride.

You can do it yourself if you are resourceful and patient. The methods described are valid, although I'd prefer a brass drift over a 3/8" extension. If you don't have one, buy one. They're cheap and you'll have it the next time. That's how tool collections get up to snuff. The grease that comes on the bearings is packing grease. It's there to keep the bearings from rusting during shipping/storing. It is NOT a good lubricant. Definately pack the bearings before you put them in! If it's in your budget, you should thouroghly inspect, and replace as necessary; your axles, struts, springs, tie rod ends, lower ball joints, brakes, brake hoses, and anything I may have forgotten while you're in there. Lastly: YOU CAN DO IT! There's a first time for everything. Be brave. That's how you learn.

HEY!!! Let's take it easy on the MG's huh...? Lucas electrics are just part of their 'character'.

Actually, the rear engine adapter can be interchanged between EA71's so it may be a go...? I installed a later style EA71 into my '79 Brat that originally had the early style center mount starter. I swapped the rear bellhousing adapter between the two, installed a new seal, and it worked out fine. I now have the center mount starter mated up to a later style EA71. I have heard the bolt pattern to mount this adapter is different between the EA71 and EA81 though. I've not ever had the opportunity to confirm this myself but this could prove a problem. Now that I think about it, I think Qman's saying if you use the later style EA71 and the later style tranny adapter...? In that case, I suppose the rear bolt pattern of the crankcase would be irrelevent as long as the later EA71 adapter with the side mount starter bolts up to your tranny as he suggests. Let us know what you do. I've always been a bit curious about the interchangeability of these two engines too. I'd like to go the opposite way as you are. If possible, I'd like to drop an EA81 in place of my EA71 while leaving the single range tranny alone. From all I'd heard, it wasn't possible without great effort.

If something looks like a pig and smells like a pig, who's going to call it a dog? Why would a headgasket be any more difficult to diagnose than anything else? If that's what the problem is, why waste time hunting up other phantom problems? I share my opinion based on experience, as do others. If he, or you, choose to ignore it then it's on you. If one doesn't want to hear the ideas of others, one shouldn't inquire. Yet, he did. A headgasket is nothing to be scared of. Especially on a Subaru. Easy job!

I hate to say it but I'm thinking head gasket(s) too. Compression gasses bleed into the cooling system and displace the coolant. Before too long, the coolant level has dropped and the engine heats up. There's a test kit that can be had from Napa and other parts suppliers. It consists of a liquid you add to the coolant system. If exhaust gasses are present, it changes color. Another way to test is with a pressure tester hooked up in place of the radiator cap. With the pressure tester hooked up and the engine running at operating temp, you are hoping to see a constant pressure reading. If the reading fluctuates, typically with a rise in pressure, there is a leak. Good luck.

14.7 to 1 air to fuel ratio.

Platinum plugs are very sensative to air/fuel mixture and foul easily if the engine's running on the rich side. You should NOT run platinum in a carburated engine unless you like to spend (waste) your money! Carbs, and Bosch's CIS injection for that matter, are not precise enough to ensure a useful and reliable lifespan with platinum plugs. In my opinion, EFI is the only fuel delivery system efficient enough to make use of the longevity platinum can provide. I, too, endorse NGK's. I've had great luck with them in my applications ranging from German, to British, to Japanese cars. Ask me and I'll tell you "Autolite and Champion are JUNK!"

Turn the mixture adjuster in until it begins to run rough then turn it out 'til it runs rough. Count the turns between these two points and set the mixture screw in the middle of those to points, plus a quarter turn toward lean. Example: If there are 3 turns between rough idle at lean and rough idle at rich, then turn the screw 1 1/2 + 1/4 =1 3/4 turn in from rich or 1 1/2 - 1/4 =1 1/4 turn out from lean. Also important to make sure the choke is operating properly. I think I remember you saying you checked this but never-the-less... The choke plates should be closed when your car is cold and should open up completely as the car warms. If one or the other is not happening, the cause needs to be determined. I still don't see where you double checked the timing. Very important to make sure it's correct before fiddling with everything else. If you have a solid lifter engine, you should also adjust the valves to the prescribed clearances. If you just want to bring it to Portland, I'll fix it up for you.