brus brother

Drats! Well, the good news is I have lifetime free oil changes from the dealer so I can just keep up with the service intervals and in the meantime, I can lease the car out to seal asphalt driveways in the neighborhood.

05 Outback 170,000 miles I noticed oil spotting the garage floor for a while. Tech told me I have badly leaking HGs. Would there be oil pooling in the recesses on top of the engine from HGs or is it something else? It is one grimy mess in there and I can't really see the source.

Agreed. These are man made creations and failure is an option due in part to many variables and some are external to SOA's assembly. Take a look around you at mankind (creations of God). If you look at those failures you would think that He was an underachiever ;-) SOA takes ownership of the problem and remedies it. My 05 and 08 were part of the Tekata airbag recall. My dealer put me on a list and as soon as parts became available, called me and even gave me a loaner while they kept each car for the few hours it took to repair. Considering the many millions of cars involved in the recall, I am pretty satisfied with their level of service.

http://pix11.com/2016/05/13/subaru-issues-recall-warns-owners-to-stop-driving-now/ OK it only involves certain 2016-17 models manufactured after Feb of this year so likely not many cheapo beater drivers on USMB affected BUT the warning says stop driving immediately. Don't even drive to dealer. They will come to you. Sounds pretty serious. Steering column failure Legacy and OBs. Ooops!

[/size] That's why I found this guy's technique to repair boot without removing from wheel interesting[/size] Fewer parts to monkey around with.[/size]

Well, this was posted alongside Lucky's video: least is best... although also a friggfin' mess, I may have to try this

Thanks all. Lucky's video even says "if you aren't going to reuse the axle... use the handy pry bar" I was asking about if I wanted to reboot so I guess I'm in for a tug o war with the lil bugger...

If I remember correctly, the last time I did a cv boot replacement was on a 2000 (pin holding axle to tranny) MY 05 apparently has a C clip that locks into the tranny. Instructions I have read said "if you are replacing the axle" you can place a pry bar between the green cv cup and the tranny and pop it out. It seems to suggest that this could damage the cup. How do you remove the axle from the tranny if you are going to reuse (reboot) the axle? Is that C clip designed to be popped out and can it be reused? Any write ups?

Brand? MWE or Raxle? Any preferences?

so about 2 months ago, turning right real hard and uphill into a parking spot heard severe clicking out of left front despite suggestions from the board, I ignored possibility of cv boot damage today am told inner cv boot shot and grease splattered all over funny but my external hg gasket leak masked the smell of the grease?! anyways, I have developed some vibration on that left side is it too late to reboot and should I just go for a reman axle? cost vs. benefit/risk am not doing the work myself...

Saw a 2014 Forrester engine pulled yesterday for what is described as excess oil consumption. Google it as there is a class action lawsuit out there.

Public Service Announcement: Buddy called me a few months back since his Ford E 250 van was barely able to make it up a hill and then not even able to drive on a flat road wanting me to follow him home. Never made it. Idled OK but wouldn't go at all under load. Long story short. Failing/misfiring coil packs over time killed the cat. Broke down the ceramic and so completely clogged it so that when I revved the engine in a parking lot, it actually blew some breather lines off the the valve cover. Disconnected the cat and vacuumed out the loose bits. Been running it as is for the time being and all is fine. Changed the coil packs and no more codes. Had been getting cat codes and misfire codes.

I use the Autel MS 300 around $16 on ebay shipped reads and erases codes. You can get cheaper units that require computer interface but this lil piggie plugs and plays in an instant reads and erases and off I go to the emissions testing station I go once the systems are reset.

I think there is a 8 year/80,000 mile warranty on emissions related items. Get it on the record if you fit within those guidelines and don't bother to mention the branch. Not sure that a p0420 would result from a reversible wiring fault.

So was the timing belt service done at 105K miles as scheduled? If not, you are way overdue and would suggest you replace HG at the same time. You can read on the site that the turbo HG is recommended. If not ready, drive on. There is no crystal ball as to when your seep will turn into a drip. My 05 is in the same NE rust belt and doesn't exhibit the rust through you experienced (model specific or the luck of the draw) Personally, at 165K miles, I am sitting on my external HG oil drip until the next TB interval. I can live with a few oil drips and since I don't have the skills to knock the TB/HG job off with the same expertise as others on this site, I just consider the cost benefit analysis and can be less compulsive and more accepting of the constant decay of matter in the universe. Just sayin'.

photo links don't work for me. Weeping sounds like what I saw on my 05 sedan (sold at 85K before it developed a drip) and my 05 OB now with 165K miles and a piece of cardboard permanently stationed on the garage floor to catch the oil drip. If you love the car and everything else is in good shape, consider doing the HGs when it's time for the timing belt (you didn't mention mileage or maintenance history). Otherwise, keep an eye on the oil level and get a piece of cardboard ;-)

If you got a printed readout from the scan, present it to the seller. It can be intermittent but you shouldn't have to worry when it will come back. It is an emissions code (catalytic efficiency below spec bank 2) Have them replace the cat(s) and O2 sensors with genuine parts and you will have some peace of mind. My P0420 showed up on my 05 OB at 105K miles and has come and gone for the next 55K miles. I reset the code/systems to pass inspection a few times but as I said above, since you have a warranty, get it fixed and then you should get some warranty for the work done. Insist on genuine parts as that will offer the best shot at it being fixed. There is no reason you should be saddled with something they were probably aware of. In this instance you will look like the smartest guy on the block for buying the extended warranty. While they are looking it over, there are bushings in the front end that notoriously wear out. Get the car brought up to snuff on their nickel. Burnt oil smell could be HG... warranty. Could also be torn cv boot (a real stinky smell)... warranty. Put some cardboard under the car and look for drips.

any chance there is corrosion at the fuse location to disable AWD? that would be too simple...

For those who may not be getting warranty information from SOA. Certain 05-09 Outback and Legacy models may have an issue with ""sticky or melted dashboards as a result of heat and humidity" This is not a recall but a customer satisfaction program extending the "New Car Limited Warranty" of replacing such dashboards or reimbursing for work already completed. No limitation for mileage or warranty start date. Offer ends March 2017. Free? I'll take a dozen... ;-)

Welcome to the board . If possible, upload the pics with a description to the USMB Repair Manual forum located HERE Instantly gain "valued member" status and all of the prestige that goes with such a title!

One way or the other, I would get a dealer to make a record of the condition. If I recall correctly, there is a warranty on emissions separate from the 5 year/60K mile standard warranty. The sooner the better. These systems get expensive to repair on your own.

I posted recently here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157745-lessons-learned-clogged-catalytic-converter/?do=findComment&comment=1318073 about a clogged cat. Your lack of power sounds like what this post referenced. You may have 2 issues, rust and clogged cat.

hah "front rear"!! meant front left more hard driving and diagnosis to be done soon

Having learned much from browsing USMB pros and novice input, I was able to solve a buddy's headscratcher. 2002 Ford E250 van suddenly lost power. At first, could barely make it up a hill and then could barely go along a flat straight road. Checked fuel pressure thinking bad pump or filter. Checked/disconnected a few of the coil on plugs as some had been replaced but not all. At idle it ran fine. Under load, just died. In a parking lot, revved the engine and a hose blew off the valve cover. Yup, the exhaust was completely blocked by a disintegrated catalytic converter. Disconnected the exhaust and roared home (varoooom) to vacuum out those pieces that were causing the blockage. Reconnected the exhaust with a new gasket. No codes thrown and for now will just run it as is. When it warms up outside, may run a scope up the y to determine which side was affected and see if there are any more pieces waiting to come undone.

I have been real careful on hard turns like turning into a driveway and haven't noticed the extreme noise lately. Just a thought... besides cv joint, what else might cause such a noise. Turning full lock hard right (nearly u turn) going up an extreme incline into a parking spot, noise came from front rear corner. Sounded like loud cv clicks and as if I was dragging that left front tire as if it had been disengaged from the axle.