brus brother

Sorry Rooster to hear about the Adobe Reader download. Did you download directly from Adobe or some third party where you would more than likely get one of those viruses and probably even a cold sore on your lip! Combofix (always free through Bleeping Computer) and Malwarebytes (free version) are two outstanding programs that I have used throughout the years to clean up horribly infected computers. Malwarebytes is fairly straightforward. Bleeping Computer is to computers what USMB is to Subarus. Outstanding members who will walk you through the most difficult computer infection though they probably won't be able to do much about that cold sore on your lip ;-)

http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/ There's a lot of good reading on the P0420 on the above link. Eastern Catalytic sells cats but the info concerns proper diagnostic steps and other sections deal with preventive measures for healthy cats.

yup. I have the 2005 cal spec 3 cat/5sensor mess. 150,000 miles now but started with the p0420 around 105K miles. For the past 4 years I had been able to reset the ecm and pass inspection BUT now I can't seem to get the systems to read as ready before a new p0420 pops up. I worked with cardoc (cited above by grossgary) a year ago and at that time after MANY scanned runs and resets, he diagnosed that the B1 cat was toast. Today I ordered a $250 Eastern Catalytic converter (5yr/50K mile warranty) bank 1 for the car and will report back. If it gets me through inspection and another 2 years down the road, I'll feel like the money was well spent. Can't see throwing $1500+ into this car when the results can be so iffy even with SOA parts. The front sensor had been replaced already and the Bosch tech advised that a lazy rear sensor would have only worked in my favor. Alls I know is what I read on the internet or heard on Roller Derby... and what cardoc told me! Fingers crossed.

I hadn't heard of the bad battery/charging conditions... I am up against this P0420 right now with a pending emissions inspection. For the past five years I have been able to clear the code and set the systems to pass emissions but now after I erase the codes, the computer throws another P0420 even before the systems are set. This 05 MY has 3 cats and 5 O2 sensors. Now who thought that was necessary??

Do you have glass insurance on your car. Here in CT where trees are forever crashing down and deer are eager to go lap dancing with drivers, such insurance is pretty standard even without a deductible. Next, you need an "event" to make the glass replaceable under their terms. Have to agree with Rooster in that it is likely a scratch in the glass. Ask a repair shop IF it can be reduced without affecting the optics of the windshield.

Thanks for the link Fairtax. I cleared the code and will monitor if it comes back. No symptoms to report yet. Perhaps a squirrely patch of ice or gravel set the ABS into puzzlement mode.

Went to clear my persistent P0420 code today in preparation for emissions testing and noticed I also have a P0500 code in the history. No CEL right now. No symptoms. The speedometer works fine. I will clear the codes and see if the P0500 returns. Any suggestions where to look, what to do?

stainless steel hose clamp and you're done

do the overhead lights go on and off as expected when the door is open or closed? related to door switch? i mashed mine up last year closing the door against the seat belt which broke the switch.

"An engine running issue can be very intermittent, and with OBD1, the damn thing could be on fire and it wouldn't trip a CEL." Now that's FUNNY!

Is there ANY seepage of oil from the struts? Not that this is necessarily diagnostic BUT during last winter, I noticed all sorts of noises coming from the rear of my 05 OB and the car was skipping all over the road after I hit a bump. Replaced struts (leaking) and sway bar links (had some play) and all was well. Bought KYB struts from local Autozone with a price match to someone else on-line and got the sway bar links there as well. It's a dirty job and was way too cold so I had a Subie tech work on it after hours for $150 labor.

I wonder if the PB Blaster has finally worked after 7 years...

Just one question... those 20 posts... is that standard or metric?

I have a 2005 as well. There is a method to disable the dings. I'll do a search of my posts and report back. Found it: Turn the ignition key to on but DO NOT start the car. Now buckle and unbuckle the drivers seatbelt about ten or fifteen times QUICKLY and then turn the ignition key to off. Now turn the key on and start the car as normal. If you were successful as I was on my 05 OB, the chime will chime 5 times when you first turn the key to on and then stop. It will also disable the seatbelt warning for the passenger seat.

It appears from a search for these parts from Autozone that the front and rear rotors are a direct fit for these years.

Get thee to a dealer and let them explain this new fangled option ;-)

what nipper said +1. I live in CT and use subarupartsforyou.com in Milford CT (Perkins dealership) They happen to be local to me and their prices are very competitive.

What Emily said. Don't be alarmed by the light show. The check engine and blinking cruise control lights come on when you throw a code. My CE and CC lights are on most of the time on my 05 OB due to a naggy P0420 emissions control issue. In your case it may be tied to the ABS so I would be a little more concerned. Get the codes read at Autozone or whatever local parts supply store offers a freebie test and then report back with their readout. Oh and almost forgot, welcome to the board.

Developed a clunking r rear 2005 OB. Inspected all components (I thought) but it was snowy and wet. Subie tech showed me play in r rear sway bar link. OK I thought that should fix it but the sound wasn't coming from there. As things dried out, I could see the r rear shock was leaking and rocking the car by pulling on the roof rack elicited the sound. It has gotten progressively worse and next week will have swaybar links and shocks replaced. Too much mess without a lift.

What Nipper said... check the cv boots. If torn/leaking and splattering grease onto the cat, it makes an awful stink. Are there any other visible leaks/drips on garage floor. My 05 just started weeping at the power steering pump, pooling ATF on the top of the engine (this one is an easy o-ring fix). These engines also exhibit external head gasket leaks and mine has a small oil seepage around the HG. I have been running my 05 with the 0420 for the past 50K miles. Occasionally the code goes away by itself and for whatever reason. I have come to believe that the spec is too tight and the code gets thrown. I have been able to erase the code and reset the systems to pass emissions testing for the past 6 years. Car runs great. Your gas mileage seems low so as others suggested, a tuneup should be the first order of business. As far as cat cleaners, it's hard to believe that anything can survive an engine's combustion and still have any "soluble/dissolving" effect by the time it reaches the cat. As is the case with many cures in a can, it will at the least clean out your wallet.

If possible, ask the dealer to let you take another 15 OB or even another model year out for a spin. Under the same circumstances, see if this is a design "feature" or flaw. Need to compare apples to apples. tbolt, do you have snow tires on your Imprezza? Unless there is ice beneath the snow, all of my Subies have gone in the snow. Sometimes I need to back off on the gas to let it grip.

If you suspect something wrong with the rear tires, swap tires front to rear and see if the noise travels with them.

Um...black atf? I hope it wasn't the engine oil you drained! I've read here that is a common mistake at quick lube joints...

Had intermittent 0420 for the past 6 years on my 2005 OB. Changed 2 passenger side O2 sensors (my car has 5 in all) but refuse to change cat. Car runs great. Once in a while, the light goes out for a while. I bought a cheap scanner for about $18 on ebay that erases the codes and there is a sequence to reset the systems so I can pass emissions every 2 years. Don't mean to be a polluter. I just think these model years are just set too sensitive on the parameters which is why the light will go out on its own now and then. Right now it's off. Had a piece of black tape in front of the lights for a while but not wanting to attract attention, I removed it for emissions testing and never replaced it.

Great info. Pep Boys has 35% off right now on KYB.