brus brother

What sort of scanner do I need to get? It seems like this sort of information is vital to getting an accurate and individual diagnosis and end the speculation? Do retailers such as Autozone sell scanners that will give this info? I have seen OBDII readers that connect to laptops for readouts. Does anyone have any idea which is best to use?

To Ivan, GD Shawn and the rest of the uberwrenchers, I found the following video on 0420 on an old Toyota. As I have mentioned, My 05 OB seems to get the code more when I am the main driver than when my wife or daughter are lightfooting around. They have however gotten the code when on extended highway roadtrips. Could this be the answer to the P0420?? I don't have the tools to do the diagnosis but I guess I could borrow a Autozone scanner to check. Just askin...

Nah, I'm not going for barometric or angle. As I said, I'm here in the flatlands of CT and I'm leaning towards heavy load. My observation is that the code shows up more frequently if I have been driving than when either my wife or daughter are driving. I definitely am a more aggressive accelerator.

OK then back to my pondering how my 05 OB appears to throw code more often with my versus wife's driving since I am more of a stomper? But doesn't the loop (closed or open, I forgot) change during heavy acceleration and therefor make the question irrelevant? Coincidence?

Leave the hood off the car and make the tb changes even faster.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_professional-grade-rubberized-undercoating-%2816-oz-%29-3m_7141477-p?searchTerm=spray+undercoating Autozone has the above 3M rubberized version that will be less likely to drip into your eyes.

Reporting here from the flatlands of CT (no engine braking) where my mechanic is also stymied... 0420 for the past two+ years on my 05 OB.

Any case histories with good ole' Seafoam? Threw some in the tank a month or so ago and then threw the code again. I wish I could see a pattern as it's now been around 300 miles since I last cleared the code. This has been going on (and off) for about 2 years. I've read too many stories here and on other sites about "did this... did that" without success.

My SOA local dealer csr blamed the winter fuel additives here in the northeast damaging the cats. Obviously soa could track their warranty and other repairs so a pattern might be able to be detected if there were regional statistics to support this theory. Not sure that soa would give this information up though. Any members down south or others without winter additives experiencing the dreaded 0420?

Advise customers that this usually happens to people with high IQs. They will thank you and may even question why they didn't experience it sooner!

So is it just coincidence or my wife's driving patterns (easier on the gas pedal) having anything to do with when codes occur? I seem to be code king around here. To get freeze frame, do I need to get readings when the codes occur?

Exhaust leak acting creating venturi effect sucking air in? OK so how do you detect leak? Read earlier that SeaFoam white smoke burnoff was a great way to detect leaks but that presumes that the smoke is exiting the pipe. I am confused

I'm in Fairfield County and don't know of any JYs down here. Real estate is too spendy here on the gold coast to support a yard. Do you by any chance have "glass" coverage on your insurance policy? Cheap insurance in our state where tree limbs are always falling and deer love to lap dance with drivers.

Did you look for the rod inside the panel? Where in CT do you junkyard shop?

This may still have a plot twist. Let us know how the movie ends.

This has been covered a few times. There is a check valve mentioned (I think Nissan) that you can install. Read the following thread and related links. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22394&highlight=rear+washer+leak

Insulate the sensor?? whoa now that's a whole new line of reasoning. Not sure I follow but I'll let this discussion continue. To answer an earlier question, I did have the ecm reset done at 57K miles. this guaranteed the cat to 100K but I threw code first at 105K DRATS!

I already replaced Bank 1 front sensor so that is out of the equation. Now having swapped the downstream sensors, that also is eliminated from the diagnostic tests. Don't have scanning ability for trim.Not giving up yet but... There are aftermarket cats at 1/3 to 1/2 the price and variable optional warranties as compared to genuine soa. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND%28wpn_tl_name:Engine+%26+Drivetrain,wpn_cat_name:Catalytic+Converters+%26+Components,wpn_scat_name:Catalytic+Converters,part:Catalytic+Converter%29 Any experience with this company?

Swapped downstream sensors side to side. Cleared codes and just rescanned after a day's drive and 420 is now pending. Safe to say not the sensor... Car runs very well. I don't hear any exhaust leak and don't know how to check for burnt valve. As I said, the car runs great.

Unfortunately, the cheaters don't appear to work on MY 05+. Tried one and then two piggybacked. My 05 has 3 cats and 5 O2 sensors. I only have bank one code so that's where I tried the spacers. That is my experience. Anyone have success with 05 and later??

Here's a link to pdf of wiring 92 svx: http://home.arcor.de/klaushoffnau/SVX_Historie/WIRING_DIAGRAMS.pdf see page 4 area C-7 for fuel pump

Cougar is the go to guy here on USMB for electrical gremlins. I don't receive any fee for this endorsement ;-)

Try this: "Have you put a meter across the connector to the fuel pump? Very often on the Impreza when the ECU senses nofuel the car will not restart. It will need an ECU reset. The easiest way of doing this is to disconnect the battery for half an hour. The ECU has capacitors in it that retain a charge. By cutting the current supply the charge in the capacitors leaks away and any stored fault codes will be wiped." http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1708583-fuel_pump_not_working Not your car model but you never know and hell, go watch the Olympics while the battery is disconnected for a while. You did say it started when you first disconnected the battery but perhaps there is a sequence to get it going AFTER you did your work like when turning on a router after a modem etc... just sayin'.

Is there any sort of alarm/security system with fuel shut-off?