brus brother

My 2000 with automatic transmission developed the delayed engagement. Tranny replaced under warranty. Search the site here for trans -x treatment as a "fix". In-laws had the dreaded head gasket failure on their 2000 at 80k miles. Other than that, it handled great and when I upgraded to the outback in 05 I really missed how well the car hugged the road. Good luck with yours.

+1 RomRaider for free software to use with your VagCom cable. Before that I bought an Autel 300 for about $20 on ebay. Simple wired code reader that also would erase codes, turn off CEL and indicate status of systems after reset (to pass emmissions testing).

Going from 2000 Legacy GT to 2005 Outback was a disappointment as the ride was higher and softer. Then last year I could have swore my 05 was possessed by the "Ghost Wanderer". On ice, I felt like the rear wanted to get out in front of me. Long story short, ALIGNMENT was way off. Check out the obvious first.

Torn cv boot throwing grease onto hot engine?

Does it leak while fueling up or afterward? Does it leak if you only fill 1/2? Notorious problem here if you search. There is a "protective" cover for the gas filler tube that ended up trapping road dirt and moisture resulting in rust through of the fill pipe. Located next to the right rear tire, you can remove the shield and see how bad the hole is. I tried to use a gasoline compatible epoxy with mixed results on my 1991 Loyale. It requires clean metal to really work well. Second try was better. I think the replacement part is about $100 and labor is whatever they want to charge. I sold the car as is.

Is there a pressure regulator on 05 Outback USDM? Passenger side under intake manifold? Other than regulator and pump, what could affect fuel pressure? I ran some more logs and these now appear much different than original! Would pressure reg fail slowly/intermittently?

Yup, pump is $300 discounted from FirstSubaruPartsForyou.com. They are local for me but don't stock the pump. I am confused, from your post, it seems there is the "sock" AND a fuel filter also... or are they the same? Any need to depressurize the tank before opening? Pull pump fuse and run till stall?? Anyway, fuel pressure test first. I sprayed brake cleaner around all of the hoses today and didn't get any rpm surge. I don't hear any exhaust leak but when the car is running the exhaust makes enough sound to drown out others.

OK a little late on maintenance at 135K miles, I decided to check out the fuel filter. Turns out the only fuel filter is a "sock" inside the gas tank and according to SOA tech "we never change them". Anyone change/examine yours? While on the subject, this week I will be visiting a mechanic to track down the cause of an elusive P0420 that a data log interpretation is pointing to either vacuum leak or poor fuel delivery (perhaps both if I'm really unlucky?). Mechanic plans on "smoking" the car in search of any vacuum leak and then checking fuel pressure. Would you check pressure first or it doesn't matter? Few questions: 1. Can a fuel pump be failing (weak) without obvious symptoms over a period of 2 years and 30K miles? Since the dealer doesn't stock the pump, is this easily replaced? Any directions appreciated. 2. Where is the fuel pressure regulator? Same question about failing/weak fuel pressure regulator symptoms?? 3. Can the "sock" filter become coated and therefore ineffective? Doesn't look like it is replaceable.

Rom Raider website: First you need to download and install RR here: http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Download Now click on link: http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/GettingStarted#toc7 Read this page. There are links on the above page for 3 files that you need to unzip and add to the same Program File folder where RomRiader.exe file resides. 1. Ecu definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic360.html Scroll down to where you see this: Please do not host these definitions on your own site. Instead, provide a link to this post only. and you will see the files attached. 2. Logger definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1642&start=1 3. Car definition file: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5792 Again, you need to place the unzipped folders in the same Program File folder for Rom Raider In each file above and the unzipped folders I selected std_En format. Other languages and metric are also available. Cardoc's excellent discussion thead on P0420 causes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis-19.html see post #186 by Cardoc I am running this program on WinXP laptop and was stymied for quite some time because I was trying to power off of cigarette ligher converter. RR was unable to make connection to ECU. Use battery or house current... when not driving ;-). Once you start RR, check to see that the correct port on computer is selected. Should be same as port listed in Computer/control panel/hardware/device manager/port. Check car defs to see if your car is listed. Mine wasn't but for the sake of logging, I chose a similar car from the same year. You will also be directed to select paramaters as shown on dashboard page. The program default is to start/stop logging using the rear defroster switch which prevents you from driving off the road while looking at your screen. If I exit the program, I seem to have to reboot to reset the port connection. PS I bought the VagCom cable from FleaBay for $9. Arrived in a week from China.

My case is the direct opposite of yours. If my wife drives the car on local streets, code stays off. If I heavy foot it or it's on the hwy for a while the code returns. My point is that with proper diagnosis of the underlying cause of the code, the mystery of when it occurs is thrown into the light. Information is power!

I am at the end of 2 years of P0420 and just started a new topic on Logical Analysis of P0420 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139618-p0420-logical-diagnosis-eventual-sticky/. In the meanwhile, I have passed emmissions two times. I have a $20 OBDII code reader that also clears the code. To reset the systems as ready (required to pass emissions), I then follow a fairly standard procedure of driving a very steady (no accelerator or brake) 50-55 mph for about 10 minutes then slow to a stop without touching the brakes then accelerate to 55 again. It is best to do with 1/2 tank of gas. Use the code reader again and all systems should now read "ready". Drive slowly to your emmissions center and you should pass.

First, a little history. 2005 Outback 2.5i AT wagon 135k miles. I have had the intermittent and recurring P0420 (warning: your catalytic converter is dying/dead) for about 30K miles so, in the interim, I may have already done irreparable damage to the cat(s). Consensus is that cats don't die, they are killed! When I first went to the dealer with the code, they said "You need a new cat". Well, yes that may be but without diagnosis of what caused the damage to the cat, I would need yet another new cat in short order. Cardoc on subaruoutback.org has an excellent writeup on possible causes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html With the use of a $10 VAGCOM OBDII to usb cable and RomRaider free software, I was able to log real time info on my car's performance. I am attaching the output zip file in the hopes of getting some help in proceeding with a cure for the underlying cause. If you want to follow this, my posting (username - Juicer) starts at #194 at the above link and in addition, off line, Cardoc's analysis of the data warns: "Check fuel delivery, pressure and check for vacuum leaks if the fuel pressure is good. Bank 1 is on the end of the fuel system, so if fuel flow is low, it will make bank 1 run lean, which is what is happening. The rear O2 sensors all show a lean mix. Find it quick or you'll be buying a couple CATs due to melting." Soooo, after 2 years and 30K miles after SOA's "recommendation", monkeying around with spacers, new front O2 sensor, and voodoo, there appears to be a LOGICAL DIAGNOSIS of the underlying cause. There have been so many posts about the P0420 that I hope to be able to collaborate to make this a sticky for those unfortunates who follow. In the meantime, in my particular case, I need some guidance on how to "Check fuel delivery, pressure and check for vacuum leaks". romraiderlog_20130716_180554.zip

I know nothing about emergency brakes etc but I would be uncomfortable with the "roll again" feature. For example, how the frick can you park in a hilly place like San Francisco without knowing exactly how much room to leave so you don't end up lap dancing with the car ahead of or behind you?? I know you are supposed to curb the wheels, but really! All of your experiences should be documented and memorialized with SOA as well as the local dealership. I would also include a statement in all of your written correspondence with SOA that they will be held liable for any incident in that they have now been made aware of the situation. That usually gets their attention. Ask that a regional manager meet you to discuss and view the recording. Good luck.

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/subaru-recalls-200-000-cars-braking-issue-1C9176258 200,000 cars in the rust belt being recalled for brake line inspection/repair/rust protection. Affects 200,000 05-09 Legacy Outback sedans and wagons.

So, you are able to lock the door using the inside switch then close/lock the door? Good way to lock your keys in the car by mistake! I'll have to see if I can do the same on my car.

I know you said this was a new symptom but on my 2000 Legacy, there was an issue from day 1 that caused a "clunk" when going over bumps at low speed. Turns out it was a hydraulic knock in the steering mechanism. Subaru had a "fix" that added a damper in the line.

Had this problem on my 00 Legacy and the unit was simply replaced under warranty.

Agreed on misuse of real estate. Too much scrolling. Also, what happened to my avatar? Jake is not happy.

Fine work especially the split hose. In problem #1 I started at the last picture, I couldn't discern that something not factory original was present until I reviewed the top down sequence.

Here ya go.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57945&highlight=seat+belt+chime Welcome to the board.

:grin::grin::grin::grin:

Here's some info: See under 2 button http://www.rjes.com/html/my00-07_immobiliser.html Doesn't really clarify if your "market" ie Japan used an immobilizer.

+1 for the rattling connectors

I don't really use cruise control so I see your point. Keep us posted.

Welcome to the board TJ. Unfortunately I still get the code 0420. I haven't replaced the cat $$. I bought a code reader/clearer Link It will also test that all systems are "ready" as in ready for emissions testing! I clear the code and it stays off for a while. The code comes and goes and I only need be concerned in passing emissions every two years. Clear the code, drive a fews cycles and all systems will test ready. Drive to test center, smile, pay the fee and away you go.