brus brother

Ask to test drive another same make and model that you select at random from the lot to determine if this is a function of the design. My 2000 Legacy GT has pinged from day one but seemed better with higher grade octane that was listed for the car ($$$!). 5 years later: Never a code, related to warmer weather ie above 60 degrees F most noticeable. SOA told me last week that manual section 7-2 asserts that "pinging" is normal and not detrimental to car. If you find another 05 that doesn't make the pinging then continue bringing it back and document complaints that they fail to remedy and finally threaten Lemon Law. You said octane rating didn't seem to matter much. How about ambient temperature? My 05 Outback seems OK with the same gas that causes problems with my 00 Legacy. I have to be a little more agressive with acceleration to minimize the pinging but I'm not happy with what I consider a design flaw in the 00. In your case, do the comparison and then ask to meet with a regional rep if yours turns out to be the runt of the litter.

I once had a problem with the internal shade on my double moonroof on 2000 Legacy GT. By standing on door sill, I was able to visualize the screen out of the track and persuade it back on the straight and narrow. If you haven't tried this vantage point, it might help. At least it's not leaking??

No turbo in my 2000 Legacy GT. I think the automatic versus manual transmission lowers my mileage.

Yeah, bittersweet comedy, Pete 'n' Tillie (1972) starring Walter MAtthau and Carol Burnett mostly about a lackluster marriage but also about the special bonds developed when these parents of a dying child devote their time to ensuring a fun packed and as full as possible life in a short period of time for the kid. BTW, woe is me my 2000 Legacy GT Auto has never broken 23MPG.

Reminds me of a 1970's movie where after tiring of bragging rights and gas mileage, a neighbor started adding gas to the other fellows car at night until the fellow nearly peed himself bragging that he was now getting close to 80 miles per gallon. Shortly thereafter... yup, he reversed his behavior and started siphoning off gas and watched as his neighbor reached near suicidal levels of despair over 3 mile per gallon conditions.

Thanks for the heads up. I too have stumbled across this site posted occasionally with an open link. It worked for me in the past and again coincidentally last week when I needed some information on repairing a Camry... yes, there is life after Subaru.

OK Here is the link to the Sticky. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=410273#post410273

Check out the "Sticky" compilation at the head of the threads. I believe this and many other FAQs are covered there. Welcome aboard.

You did say that the oil coats the "sides" of the engine, so for the short term, replace the valve cover gaskets and degrease the engine. The other repairs mentioned by Snowman (crank and cam seal) are a little more involved and could hopefully await and be coordinated with the next timing belt replacement. Cars are works in progress, some made on Monday and others on Friday. Take your pick, they are all made by men.

Bear in mind that a dent of that magnitude might itself affect the car's alignment.... bad Carma. BTW , the air freshener comes precalibrated from the convenience store... Any news on the brake fluid container/level?

While I didn't actually say ADD brake fluid, in this case, if the fluid was low, you could add some as a quick diagnostic test or even just support the float and see if the light went out. If that works, then check the pads and replace as indicated, wash and wax the car, replace air freshener and you're good to go.

Is it just possible that the brake fluid is low in the reservoir which would trigger the float to register "brake light" as when the brakes wear?? In other words, check the brake fluid level...

Dontcha just love happy endings.

Ditto 2000 Legacy GT

Would this have anything to do with the oft mentioned "doh" switch on top of the steering column? Common things happen commonly.

Brake rotor "warped". Some say the warpage is actually just brake pad material deposited on the rotor but regardless the end result is high spots on the rotor that become more noticeable when braking at highway speeds where the rotor is cooled down. Have the rotors ever been resurfaced with a brake pad replacement? I've been advised against numerous resurfacings as the rotors become thinner and more subject to thermal stresses that more easily cook the pad material onto the rotor. Sometimes it's better to just replace rotors if you are doing the job yourself than driving the rotors around town to be resurfaced. There are some scholarly posts on the subject if you use the search function.

For all you out of town complainers, just think about how ruff and tuff we locals must be to deal with these sort of mishaps on a daily basis... ah, just to live here in Corrupticut.

Hooray, the Moose (Paul) to the rescue... and we thought you were only an Old Generation prowler. Good to see you on the road and willing to lend a hand.

This just happened to my left turn signal on my 00 Legacy GT last week for the first time. At first, I thought there was a bulb out and that's why the fast signal but next time it worked properly??:-\

Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 126800 Date of Bulletin: JUN 02, 2000 NHTSA Item Number: 613993 Component: OTHER Summary: THIS BULLETIN WILL HELP IDENTIFY THE SOURCE OF WATNER ENTERING VEHICLES THROUGH THE FRONT MAP LIGHT AREA OF THE INTERIOR PANEL. *TT http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/results.cfm?start=16&SearchType=DrillDown&type=VEH ICLE&year=2000&make=SUBARU&model=LEGACY&vehtype=UN K&typenum=1&component_id=0&summary=true This is for MY2000 but go to a dealer and ask to see the TSB. It might save you some time reinventing the wheel.

No Joke. Thankful for warranties. Take that doggie in and let SOA figger' it out.

This happened to my 05 OB non turbo just as the auto trany died. New one installed under warranty.

Oil on the boots is another issue. There are grommets where the plugs go thru the valve cover . They need to be replaced occasionally, mine were done on my 2000 Legacy GT around 40,000 under warranty. It's a known issue. I think you pull the valve covers and replace the valve cover gasket at the same time as these grommets. Put this on the bottom of the honey-do list until you sort out the power issue.

If you are suffering from "mafundsarelow" try multiple drains and fills of AT fluid (Dextron I think? check manual). Cheap enough at WalMart by the gallon. Even if it's not a complete drain and refill the first time through, after you've drained, filled, spun around the block a few times and repeat drain, refill, spin around the block, repeat, you get a pretty good result under the circumstances. It's mentioned a few times on the board. Just don't overfill. If you are sure that your initial level is good, drain say 5 quarts and add 5 quarts... simple math at the college level. Good luck.

First of all, check to make sure of the source of the rattle. I once solved my cousin's similar complaint by removing a ton of crap from his spare tire well (towing hitch, loose screwdrivers etc). Now, excercising great care for life and limb, remove the interior cover from the rear hatch and have someone ride in the rear while you recreate the noise driving over bumps. Unless the door bumpers are gone and the door itself is rattling, the locking and opening linkage may be the culprit. Harmonic rattle at idle sounds to me like it may be from loose heat shields on exhaust.