brus brother

OK I'll practice my typing tonite. Put key in ignition and turn on but DO NOT start car. Now buckle and unbuckle the drivers seat belt 15-20 times then leave belt buckled and turn key to off position and remove key. Now, each time you go to start the car the seat belt chime chimes 5 times and then stops whether or not the driver or passenger belts are buckled. Remember to Buckle Up though. I'd hate to see your head as a hood ornament on your car.

Too many problems for a new car. How many miles? Think Lemon Law if this continues. The details are posted conspicuously at the counter in the Service Desk area in most dealerships. You qualify among other things if they don't fix a problem after a certain number of attempts, and anyway, ask to meet with a regional rep. Discuss that your confidence in their product is seriously undermined. If they don't want to give you a replacement vehicle, casually suggest they give you a complimentary 6 year /100K warranty. That's what I got after all the hassle with my 2000 (long story). A friend received the same after his 05 Turbo kept stranding him with one problem after another. You'll have peace of mind and will also be reimbursed for the inconvenience of being an unpaid member of their Quality Control Department.

This is a known issue. It is related to the rear taillight assembly. Use the search function and you should be able to locate it. I am up to my knees in alligators right now but will try and help in the search if no one else chimes in. Just chased the alligators out and found the following link. The SEARCH function is your friend on this site. Check this link from December. You are not alone. The information seems to point to inadequate sealant and gives suggestions as to how to remove the unit and reseal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48874&highlight=leaking+rear+gate There may also be mention at the NHTSA.org site under TSBs for Subarus of that or related years.

Keep us posted Bubba. Fingers crossed.

Didn't intend to be "e-thuggin" (having the nerve to say something hiding behind a screen). The premise of the water + hot rotor = warp has always seemed dubious to me. Considering this possibility in metalurgy, it would seem a too serious pitfall for any and all rotors if this were the case. Understood, you are not submerging or quenching the rotor with puddles as compared to crossing a stream but still you would expect a similar and cumulative effect might take place. I take interest in your thread because currently I too am suffering from warped rotors and certainly am open to all discussion.

"and be careful driving through water with them hot." You're kidding me right? I can just see me serpentining down the road avoiding puddles...

Hey Doc, Follow Cookie's prescription. Rust belt or not, get back under there with a hammer and tap away looking for a loose heat shield. It's tough to diagnose a noise over the internet but heat shield noise is a common occurence.

Shameless BUMP. Any eyedeers??

I have posted before about a engine pinging problem with my 2000 Legacy GT Auto using 87 octane as suggested in owner's manual. The pinging occurs when ambient temperatures get over 60 degrees F. The car seems to run fine at cooler temperatures. The problem has existed from day one. I have tried SeaFoam top engine cleaner numerous times, throttle body cleaner, BK in the gas tank, new air and gas filter, air freshener hanging from the mirror and voodoo. Reading a recent post and link here on MAP sensors I am wondering if a faulty or out of spec MAP sensor could be the culprit. Is there a way of testing this sensor and are the symptoms consistent with a faulty sensor?

Firefox lacks certain plugins, in this case download Apple's Quick Time.

A man and a plan... congratulations on going to the source, the FSM. Keep in touch on this site. Someone's dilemma (and solution) today might be yours tomorrow.

Check your fuses. Perhaps you toasted one with your handiwork. Disconnect power to your new radio and check for blown fuses. Replace, test and then go back and hook up your radio. You might want to disconnect the battery before reinstalling the radio.

"If the socket has a sticker on the side of it make sure you remove it. On the 2.5 engine, don't be surprised if you pull out the socket extension and the socket is still in the head." Oh yeah, almost forgot, I used a little duct tape, securing the extension to the socket, to prevent the above from happening... the second time!

There is a recent post "$29 plug wires" that has some tips on where to buy oem plug wires (and plugs) online for cheap. As far as technique is concerned, first time out I would suggest that you do one wire/plug at a time so as to not mix up where the wires go. Use antisieze grease on the plug threads when reinstalling. If you meet resistance when installing new plugs, STOP! You don't want to cross thread these babies! You should be able to glide them in either by hand or using a small piece of rubber hose attached. I have never used a torque wrench but if in doubt, and you are just getting into the game of grease, might as well invest in one now. If you don't get one, best advice is to snug it up but don't crank down on it. Sorry, but that's one of those do it once and you'll know for the next time things. Wear nitrile gloves available at auto stores. As a brain surgeon once told me, confidence lacking competence is very dangerous. Go slow, ask questions and good luck.

I thought it was a bad rotor and was prepared to change the rotors when replacing the brake pads but if you are right, you saved me $140. The car doesn't seem to pull to one side or another. Are there 2 plungers on each caliper and if so are you saying one of these is "sticking"? Not clear yet. OK so how do I unstick this "slide"? Are you referring to the plungers in the caliper? If so, how do I make them not "stick"?

Haven't taken things apart yet but I have one more symptom that puzzles me. 2000GT Automatic, braking at slower speeds seems smooth but at highway speeds, SOMETIMES I get a wild vibration in the steering wheel when braking. If I release and reapply, I can sometimes get a smooth brake. What's up with this??

Should anti-seize grease be used on these caliper bolts??

Should anti-seize grease be used on these bolts??

Going fishin' here but ... check fuses (seat belts not working)... if automatic, isn't there a release switch of some sort in the shifter console used for when towing the vehicle to disengage tranny or did I just dream this up...

Thanks Jamie. As always, spot on and helpful. My mistake, I thought you were with 1stSub and have been directing business their way (doh).

2000 LegacyGT Auto wagon. Well, not quite the novice, I have changed the front pads but now I'm going in for the rotors. I figure with 82,000 miles on the rotors, with high speed serious shimmy on braking on occasion, I may have reached "warp speed". With no recollection if they've been cut more than once, 1stsubaruparts has the rotors for $63. Is it a best bet to skip cutting and just replace and if so, stay oem for pads and rotors. Never had squealing and don't want to start now. There have been some informative links here about rotor warping and causes that probably raise more questions than give answers. I don't think I abuse the car but I do drive aggressively around CT. streets and hways. No off road other than to change a tire. P.S.Do the rotors just pull off after the removal of the two caliper bolts and caliper? Where are the essential lube points and products to use?

OK I just checked some prices on brake work for my car and 1stSubaru parts is actually cheaper than my internet guys on the east coast and judging from SubieGal's website, Jamie is easier on the eye than the fellers at Perkins, so go west young man... wish I lived out west;)

Check some online subaru dealers. 90-96 Legacy $29 MSRP and discount price at Subarupartsforyou.com. Other wires actually are discounted from MSRP.They are part of Dan Perkins Subaru in CT.. There are many such "divisions" of your local dealerships. Check out 1stsubaruparts.com on the west coast. Libert Subaru in NJ has another such operation. Ask for "discount parts" when they answer the phone.

TahDah! It is interesting to note that the TSB didn't cover your model year.

Again gents, if you check with SOA or any Subaru dealer, they can check the VIN for open recall notices etc. SOA should be able to tell you where the recalls were performed. There was a rustproofing recall, a power steering recall, the infamous stop leak head gasket recall. Check the NHTSA site for recall (and TSB) notices. It is likely that if the recalls were performed at local CT. shops that the car wasn't then driven south to participate in the New Orleans "summer games" and then "shipped" (pun intended) back.