bushytails

Even though I called them on thursday and they said they'd hold it for today, it had already been crushed. Wasted half my day driving there and back. $@#$@#!!!!

I think there's about a whole dozen of us still working on old gen subarus...

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186723-junkyard-82-84-gl-wagon-2wd-parting-out/ If this hasn't been crushed, and they haven't caved it in moving it with a forklift, do you want me to pull you a door? If so, what is the minimum condition you're looking for? Perfect, minor dents and rust, anything that will fill the gap between the hinges and the striker,...? It looks clean in the tiny picture I got, but there's not a lot of pixels...

Yes, I know there's a forum just for these posts, but I think this one is more likely to be spotted by people in the very limited fimeframe... Through a friend-of-a-friend, I got word of a old gen getting towed to a near-ish junkyard earlier this week. If they haven't crushed it yet, I'm going to head there this saturday morning to pull parts. I don't know anything about its condition other than one text that's been forwarded too many times to have any pixels left. They close early on saturdays, and I'm working 66 hour weeks and can't go there any other day, so I'll only have at most a couple hours to pull parts. Anyone want anything? As I said, very limited time, so nothing complex. I also don't know what they'll charge - I've never been to this junkyard before. From what I've heard, they'll probably crush it almost immediately. If you want the whole thing, let me know and I won't go and strip it, or if you're genuinely committed to a major part (engine, trans), they'll probably wait to crush it if you give them money.

I do have a door, and I think it's fairly straight, but if I remember right, it's rusted out along the bottom. I'm working 12 hour days until next year, and won't be able to dig it out until then.

Good used 40 year old boots won't be good much longer... lol. I tried the ones O'Reilly sells, and they cracked almost immediately. The ones when I got a rack rebuilt by Phoenix Rack And Axle lasted six months. Have been once again driving with open boots...

Do you have good boots for power steering racks, that have the vent line fitting, AND last more than a year? Both of the last options I tried cracked in six months after install.

The factory option bullbar is impressively flimsy. It would not provide any protection against hitting anything larger than a flying squirrel. I assume it's to keep weight down. I broke mine using it to pull myself up from a kneel... The plastic clips holding the trim on are likely very brittle. Be careful removing them.

I have a driver's side rear door I pulled off someone's parts car a while back. I can't remember which part I needed out of it now. lol. Metallic red. It has some rust and probably isn't a good pick for a clean low mileage car. I wouldn't be able to ship it until next month, or even get at it to take pictures. But, if you can't find any other options, it's here. Body shops have networks of junkyards and such that can find parts, if they're going to do the work. The insurance company is going to tell you the car is worth $2. You'll need to find ebay etc listings of super clean ones going for $6000. This may involve showing them to a judge. Insurance companies suck.

If true, that means you have a *very* marginal ignition system, and probably should check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.

Alternator has no relation to timing... and changing timing doesn't usually cause misfires anyway. Check for damaged vacuum hoses, loose wires, damaged/worn spark plug wires, etc, that may have happened during alternator replacement.

Great! I had a similar problem today... Went to back up, and no backup lights. Turn/backup fuse blown. Found one of the wires on top of the transmission rubbed through on the clutch bracket.

If the fuel pump primes when the key is turned on, doesn't that mean both the ecu and the fuel pump relay are getting power, but the same fuse as the fuel pump relay is for the ignition coil, which you say isn't getting power? I must be looking at the wrong diagram...

Yeah, getting stronger bolts just so you can over-torque them further before they break seems like the exact opposite of how to fix that, or any other, problem... at best you'll end up with a warped pan that will be hard to ever make seal again...

They go off randomly and constantly, with a roughly 100% false positive rate, pissing off neighbors, shoppers, and everyone else, while not doing a thing to reduce crime, because no one pays any attention to one going off whatsoever, other than contemplating a brick through a repeat offender's windshield.

I personally consider car alarms a nuisance that should be banned...

Or use a new gasket with a bit of silicone on both sides...

Went to get a pic... but the Hitachi dist in my '83 wagon is completely different. I found this googling, and it has a pic that should do it: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=21289 Black with white is positive, yellow is switched / coil negative / tach /etc.

Gasket-in-a-tube might be fine...

I haven't had one of those apart in so long that I don't remember. I know an EJ has a seal - I just built one of those a couple months ago... EDIT: Found https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/23378-ea82-oil-pickup-tube/

I don't know anything about isspro's gauges, and their website seems to list at least six product lines but gives technical info about none of them... An oil passage being clogged wouldn't cause a cyclical reading. Nothing ever settles or needs a re-torque. lol. A leak on the suction side of the pump, like where the pickup tube connects, will let it pull air bubbles and cause a varying reading, without any external visible signs. The stock oil pressure gauge is *very slow*, so I don't know how much pressure variation is normal on those engines. I also don't know if isspro's gauges are prone to jittery readings.

What kind of oil pressure sender and gauge are you running? Leaks do not cause jumpy readings. Low level or air leaks at the pickup tube or pump intake do....

Well, winning the Smoothest Brain Award is better than winning the Time For A New Engine Lottery!

I'm kinda surprised it's an intake thing... I think you'd hydrolock it before you get milky oil...

Anything between about 5ftlbs and snapping the bolts off will seal coolant. The exact torque amount and procedure will affect longevity of the seal around the cylinder bores. There is nothing you can do other than flat out forgetting to tighten them that will cause an immediate external coolant leak, or a major internal one. You could have a cracked block or a cracked head. I did a revival of a many-many-years-in-junkyard ea81 wagon that went great (well, great except the gas tank being plugged solid enough that even 120psi of air couldn't get the pickup open, and the carb being a solid blob, and... but I got it running!) until I added coolant, and it ran out as fast as I put it in... Or a problem with the intake surfaces. I'm mostly an EA81 wolfy, not an EA82 one, so I'm not familiar with the cam stuff. Put it together with no oil or coolant, no valve covers, no exhaust, leave the spark plugs out, etc - but do connect the radiator, and loop back the heater core lines. Re-use your last set of head gaskets, unless they're obviously damaged. Do the minimum amount of assembly needed to seal up the cooling system. Remove one of the little intake coolant lines, plug the end with a barb plug and clamp, then put a few feet of hose on the barb you took the hose off from, also with a clamp. Stick the end of that hose on an air fitting with a pressure regulator, fire up your air compressor, and turn the pressure up to 12psi. Listen closely everywhere. Do you hear air anywhere? Do you hear any hissing coming back out the intake? Out either exhaust port? From the spark plug holes? etc. If you turn the pressure up too much the radiator cap will start hissing - turn it down if you do.