bushytails

Does the bucking go away if you leave the valve unplugged?

I should add, it's just my *theory* that not having a reservoir makes them crack. I've had a lot of problems with them cracking, and here's what I decided: With no reservoir, the radiator always runs with a bubble on top. Even if you fill it to the brim, when it warms up and expands, it'll push coolant out the cap, and pull air in when it cools. At idle, the bubble is at the top of the radiator. Coolant entering the upper hose at low velocity drops by gravity and slowly flows through the tubes, with the top couple tubes filled with air from the bubble. At throttle, the high-velocity coolant against the resistance of the tubes causes coolant to flow through all the tubes, including the top ones, and the bubble is pushed to the outlet side of the radiator. You can see this if you look down the cap with it running - the level drops when you give it any throttle. So, at throttle, the top tubes are filled with hot coolant, and are hot. As soon as you go to idle, and the bubble moves into them, the airflow over the radiator instantly cools the tubes down to air temperature. Then you give it throttle, and they get filled back with hot coolant, and instantly heat to coolant temperature. Then you go back to idle, and they drain and instantly cool to air temperature. And paper thin aluminum can only take so many 100 degree temperature cycles every few seconds before cracking... especially since when they cool, they contract against the force of the rest of the hot tubes expanding the tanks apart... I couldn't find any other claims about this when I extensively searched for info on them cracking - just lots of other people having mysterious cracks in fairly new expensive radiators. So, with no other competing theories, I'll go with the one I came up with!

I got a universal stainless steel one on ebay. Google, ebay, or amazon for universal coolant reservoir, universal coolant tank, and searches like that. There's tons of nice-looking ones available.

Got a source on those? All I can find is references to swayaway, which seems to be out of business...

Hrmm, I could have sworn the 2wd still had it, but it's been so long since I've seen one, I seem to be mis-remembering!

You're doing it wrong... you take off the shocks, then the three bolts on the trailing links, then the inner bushes, then drop the gas tank, then bolt up the 4x4 gas tank, the mustache bar and diff, and the trailing links with CVs...

Unless you've had an engine swap to something uncommon, the fuel pump is what pressurizes the injectors. The injectors are electronically controlled valves, that let out a precise amount of fuel when the computer tells them to open and close. The fuel to them is supplied, at pressure, by the fuel pump. The only common exceptions to this are diesels, ancient satanic bosch fuel injection, and ultra-modern direct injection gas engines...

gas gauge need fix

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models... and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.

It's really hard to diagnose something like that without the "feel" of what it's doing that a test drive gives... Does it idle well, or does the problem happen at idle too?

Yeah, that's one of the cleanest ones I've seen... my daily driver has enough rust that the front of the rocker moves independently of the back of the rocker if I open my door into the stop...

So you tested it and found the timing does not advance with increasing engine rpm? It's probably just stuck, and needs penetrating oil and poking at until it frees up.

Kinda hard to tell much from those pics... But it doesn't matter much anyway. You're going to need to inspect the distributor. Shaft wobbles so much the rotor is hitting things? Time for bushings. Some part of the advance mechanism loose and jamming into the rotor? Repair. Etc. Find nothing wrong? Put in a new rotor and inspect periodically.

I'm having a hard time understanding your post. You're using the same engine and harness and ecu that you used in the rolled car, in the new car, but now it bucks? Or this is an entirely new swap? If it's all the same parts that worked before, it's obviously not incompatibilities between them or what the wiring harness supports. Or did you mismatch intakes when you originally built? Again, if it worked before, not the problem now. Since you're suspicious of the fuel supply, start with a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Extend the hose long enough to route out through the edge of the hood and tuck under your windshield wiper. Take it for a test drive. Fuel pressure should be solid, and should go up 12 psi when you go from idle to full throttle. Does it buck at idle, or only above a certain amount of engine load? On your obdii scanner, use the live data mode (if it doesn't have live data, bin it and spend $50 on a new one), looking for any sensors that move in a sudden fashion, especially if it correlates with the bucking. If it's a fuel injection issue, an oscilloscope is really handy... Here's a couple pics from last time I was troubleshooting a bucking issue: https://imgur.com/a/RwWTdwG In these images, the jumpy green trace confirmed the bad component - MAF sensor.

Yes, the weights and such are the mechanical advance. With the vacuum advance disconnected, slowly rev the engine up. The timing should advance proportional to engine rpm, to about 3000rpm or so. I don't have an advance curve for the ea82 handy, but it should just smoothly increase with rpm until it reaches a limit around 2-3k. Another possibility is your mixture is way rich, and you're hiding it with timing. Overly rich mixtures burn slower and need some extra timing to compensate.

Is that a 2wd? Replace the wheel bearing by replacing the rear axle. Blower circuit is mildly annoying. If it won't work at all, it's not the resistor - the resistor isn't used on high speed. There's a hidden glass fuse and a round relay tucked up in the dash somewhere to the left of the steering column iirc. The relay is turned on by one of the accessory fuses and a ground wire to some screw somewhere that I don't remember, and the power to the hidden fuse comes straight off the fusible link. This provides positive to the blower motor. Negative to the blower motor is through the resistors (except on high) and the switch in the dash. Pop the plug to the blower motor and get a test light out, see if you're missing positive or ground. If you have no positive, then dig under the dash for the relay and hidden fuse. If you're missing ground, then check the speed switch in the dash and its ground. If you have both, might need brushes in the motor. Just to say it again, **hidden fuse**. It's a clearish/white plastic glass fuse holder just randomly dangling off the harness tucked up in the dash and not accessible, and this is the fuse that powers the blower. The only available radiators are aluminum these days. If you use one, you must install a reservoir like a newer car has. From what I can tell, running them without a reservoir, with an air bubble in the top like these cars normally run with, causes them to instantly crack due to thermal stress as the air bubble moves around.

My guesses would be vacuum advance or mechanical advance aren't working, or you're setting it with vacuum advance connected or at too high of idle speed. You should set the timing with the engine idling at normal speed (no more than, say, 700rpm) and with the vacuum advance hose disconnected. After setting it at idle with vacuum advance disconnected, rev the engine up and verify timing advances with engine rpm, then apply vacuum to the pod on the dist using a hand pump or a manifold vacuum line and verify timing advances.

As long as the springs are holding it tight, it doesn't matter what they are. My car has generic dorman ones from the auto parts store. Did you make a new bracket?

It'd read somewhere between 2 and 100. I remember when ford fixed complaints of low oil pressure by replacing the gauge sender with a switch and resistor, so the gauge always read 2/3rds from 2psi up...

Just run the pin you have. The wear will be taken up by the adjustment at the release fork.

You own a subaru.

You could narrow the subframe... you could add fender flares... orrr.... you could cut the brat down the middle and add 6" of sheet metal!

Since you're probably going to be fabricating your own, just make it fit whatever bolts you want.

Here's two pics of an extremely mushed 4-speed d/r one, and a non-mushed 5-speed d/r + ej car: https://imgur.com/a/bUgpkRj I'm guessing your bracket is missing, if there's nothing like it hanging down.

That looks right to me. The "gap" will shrink as the donut wears. There should be a bracket on the back of the transmission that the exhaust rigidly bolts to, not a hanger. This is a little newer, but shows how it works: https://www.subaruoutback.org/attachments/560913/