Sapper 157

I think I'm gonna cry. That is such a beautiful BRAT! Ditto what joe5 said! And if you do lift it, i would only go two or three inches. Of coarse i have no experience lifting and have never owned a lifted vehicle, but out of the lift jobs ive seen i personally would prefer two or three inches. Once again, awesome ride dude!

Okay thanks guys! Sorry i missed that other post of yours

UPDATE I got the old axle out no problem. got the new one in and the pin in the right way no problem... but now the d**** thing wont come through the d**** hub! Ive been trying to coax it through for the past two hours and no luck. am I doing something wrong? the axle I took off and the one I installed are both made by Empire so they are identical to one another... so why is this stupid thing giving me so much trouble? The video I watched of a guy doing his axles on his legacy showed the axles sliding right in no problem. mine will go through to the point I'll have about an inch of the threads coming through the other side and then it wont budge.

I would say it's definitely fuel. I repaced both fuel filters, ran gerat for about two hours of communting and hualing six passengers. Then it started acting up again. So today im gonna drain my tank and replace the filters again. Im gonna run shell v-power supreme gas with a can of seafoam for my next tank of gas to try to "flush" my fuel system.

Ive check repeatedly for vac leaks and have yet to find any. Visually speaking the fuel flow seems to be fine.i only have one fan and it does come on frequently, especially on longer trips. No secondary is not stuck.

I replaced the top fuel filter today and also got a disty cap and rotor on. It was when I was taking the old cap out I noticed that the number 1 cylinder dist cap port was full of blushish green corrosion! I replaced the cap and rotor and got the new engine compartment fuel filter on and then did the blocking the carburetor throat trick. it is running better. but no where near cured. I will replace the under body filter tomorrow and see if that helps any more.

Along with my bad fuel problem, my hicappy carburetor has decided that in return for all the rebuilds that i have done to it that it would reward me with an idle issue. When it is cold, it will hardly idle unless i help it along for about 1 minute. And now when it warms up it will idle at 1500rpms (too high) im thinking its the choke. How would i go about adjusting tbe choke to make sure it stops this silly behavior? Also, im running too warm. Not overheating, but gettung warmer than normal. I just flushed my system and installed a new h2o pump. My thermostat is oem with about 8,000 miles on it. Im thinking about going woth a new aftermarket thermostat and seeing if that helps. What aftermarket brands are reliable?

Its possible it could have been a bad batch of gas. I only use non ethanol gas and I get it from a local fuel & feed store. The owners are friends of ours and ive been getting my fuel there for the past year and never had a problem.So i think it may have been just a bad batch of gas. Ill try changing those filters and hope that helps

I was cruising down the hwy today doing about 65. Normally I drive about 55 but I had just had a new set of tires put in and I was late for work because the shop took kinda long. Anyways, I was cruising at 65, all systems are normal, oil pressure is good, temp is above normal but no where near the red, volts are good and I just filled the tank. All the sudden, I feel my ride lose all its power. Pulled over, inspected it and found that at idle, it bearly stayed alive and hardly any gas was coming on. And when I would push in the accelerator pedal, the rpms would climb for a split second then it would die. I eventually discovered that by pumping the gas pedal I could keep it alive and get it up to 50mph. So I limped home and now I'm wondering what could have caused this. My guess is a clogged fuel filter. Any other ideas? I just changed the fuel pump this spring, and I could hear it clicking. It's a 1984 GL wagon EA81, Hitachi Carb

Anyone have any new or different guard ideas or pics? TheLoyale I LOVE your wagon! Looks amazing! Probably a lot of time, money, and love into that pretty wagon! Deer antler is a very nice touch!

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. unless your coolant was old when you added the new coolant. Besides you can save $80 and just buy a flush kit and do it yourself If you really need/want to. . http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438658845&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=prestone+antiefreeze+flush+kit

Okay thanks thornely. and I will investigate to make sure both ball joints fit too.

Thanks for all your posts! I appreciate it guys! One more small and probably dumb question, do I pack that boot with grease before installation?

So I ordered two new ball joints from rock auto. They are mevo-tech joints, and they were supposed to be the best ones that were available. However, when I received them, one bearing, ( The one on the left) came in what looks like perfect shape with a sealed boot and seems to move very easily. The one on the right however came with the boot detached. Is this normal? why is one different than the other? I thought it was defective so I ordered a new one. Well, the new one came today and it looks just like The one on the right. Boot detached and everything. So do I just have bad luck with Ball joints I need to order a new another one? Or my supposed to put the boot on myself? Am I missing something here or are these just defective joints? I would appreciate any insight guys, thanks a lot!

haha yep, sometimes these cars need a little love.

Have spark pluds or plug wires been done recently? Sometimes that can attribute to bad starting. Has your fuel filter been changed? That could also be a factor.

90% of my replacement parts I get from RockAuto. They have always treated me well. Sometimes I go to partsgeek but that is only on occasion.

I wish my dad would have know about that rebooting trick with the OEM axles. The ones that are on it right now are aftermarket ones. My dad replaced both front CVs about six years ago.

Ordered another bearing and 8 seals. Two for each side in front and two for each one in back

Does that include labor? My shop charges $90 an hour for labor and said it would cost me almost $300

Thanks for the help guys!

Thanks for the tip about the seals. So if I was repacking my bearings would I also need new seals?

I think im gonna go with the EMPI axle. $64 with shipping. It's a relativity easy repair isnt it? I watched a youtube video of a guy doing the axles on a 1997 Legacy and it looked very doable.

In the front of a 1984 GL wagon there are two bearings per wheel, right? An Inner and an outer? and would this bearing do for both the inner and the outer? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=218482&cc=1268344&jnid=418&jpid=5

+1 When I run my wagon at about 2600 (55MPH) I can get about 30-34mpg When im running at about 3000 (60-62mph), I typically get around 26-28mpg Of coarse mine is an EA81, so I guess there are a few differences that could factor in.