Sapper 157

Yes it is hooked up. But im not 100% sure it is actually working because my ECS light has never worked (pervious owner messed with the electrical, and I think that is what the problem is) However,now i'm positive I know what the problem is now, thanks to the help of local subie wizard. Veterans, please excuse my use of wording as I do not know all the technical names, but I think I can explain it: there is a very small angled tube on the side of the carburetor throat, below the choke plate. Its right next to the primary venturi. That little nozzle squirts a small amount of gas, sometimes by itself (when first getting started) and sometimes the Primary Venturi kicks in and and sprays fuel at the same time this nozzle sprays fuel. (like when at half throttle). When this little nozzle is not working, or when the pump assembly that powers it malfunctions, then -- like when starting out in 1st gear-- one would have to gun it so as to fully open the primary barrel so that the little nozzle is not needed anymore. And when going down the highway at half throttle or less, that little nozzle is what supplies the majority of the fuel to the system... so when its not working, the engine is being starved of fuel, hence the jerking. I found a video of a hitachi which is nearly identical to ours on youtube, and you can clearly see that little nozzle spraying a good amount of gas. Mine does not do that. it will sometimes do a drop or two, but no more that that. Here is the link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1vdYqmY0R4

Deleted Anti-Backfiring Valve (AAV) system, new fuel pump, new rear fuel filter, new PCV valve, new EGR valve, replaced most of the vacuum and breather hoses, resealed battery terminals, and added an EA82 overflow tank.

Yep. cleaned those when I rebuilt the carburetor. Thats a good point. No I didnt. And I know they haven't been replaced in the last ten years. I'll get to that. Even if it that isnt the problem then at least I won't have to worry about those lines for a few more years

I can rule out vacuum leaks because I did a gauge test and the meter didnt jump around at all. I'll try the distributer idea though. 16 PSI is normal for EA81 vacuum pressure right?

Well I was afraid you guys would say that. Like I said I cleaned every inch of that carb and I distinctly remember cleaning those tubes. Just to be safe however, I took the top off the carb today and recleaned them. No difference. I do believe it is carb related though, because it was after I rebuilt my carb that the problem got a little better. I'm trying to think of what else it could be.

Is this the tube of which you speak of? If not, are the tubes in this diagram? if so which numbers?

Can I reach them without disassembling the carb? Thanks for your patience.

Okay, one problem... I dont know what the tubes look like or where on the carb they are located because neither of my carburetor diagrams show any emulsion tubes. Are they metal tubes or rubber? (im guessing metal) Are they outside the carb or inside? Your description just doesn't make sense to me. Brass caps? where are the brass caps? thats not in my diagram either. Im guessing I will need to take my carb off to get to them correct. Sorry for the confusion, but im just really perplexed by this carb. Wait a minute, does the emulsion tube have a bunch of small holes in it?

Funny thing about my car is that the previous owner did some electrical modifications. when he was doing that I believe he messed up my ECS system because the light never comes on. As far as fuel lies go, I cleaned out my primary fuel line yesterday

Gotchya, thanks for the tip. couldnt be the pump though because I just replaced it on Sunday.

How would I go about that nipper? Im pretty sure it works, but then again what do i know.

Just cleaned my primary fuel line today... no rust, no crud, no nothing. I kinda wish it would have been that so that at least it would have been something simple. So now I'm thinking its something with the disty like RD was saying, or possibly something else electrical. when that search comes up blank, im going after the carb float. If that is to no avail, I think I'll just pour some nitroglycerin in the gas tank and blow it up*... Because I have had it up to HERE with this stupid problem! *(this portion of this post is not necessarily the opinion of the writer, when he is not filled with blind rage at a problem he cant fix)

Thats possible, but I sure hope not. Those darn hitachis are so complex! Truthfully im surprised my friend and I were able to put everything back together correctly on the first try!

Thanks for the tips Subasaurs and Gloyale. I'll try adjusting it again tonight or tomorrow when the engine is cold. it idles only when its cold but it seems like it take forever for the high idle to quit

HOLD YOUR HORSES. Are you telling me that the problem could be something as simple as crap in my steel fuel lines?

Ok so I am very annoyed by my high idle. Every since I rebuilt my carb my car idles at 2000 rpms before it warms up. (i dont think it even worked before I rebuilt my carb.) This is hard on my engine, not fuel efficient, and just plain annoying. I looked in my HAYNES repair manual and it says that there is this one screw which adjusts the high idle mounted on the carb. Well I adjusted that screw and every time I adjust it, the next morning it is idling at 2000 again! Could someone give me some advice? BTW; my car is an EA81 w/ hitachi carb

Ok so now I am thinking probably igntion coil or plug wires? Is it okay to run an ignition coil off an EA82 on an EA81?

UPDATE: I bought and installed a new EGR valve, new PCV valve, deleted my AAV, and got a new fuel pump put on. The problem seems to have gotten better with the new improvements, but it is still jerking and losing power in the lower rpms (about 1500 is when it loses power or starts to jerk). although it is not nearly as unbearable. Did vacuum and compression testing and found that my vacuum psi is a steady 16. My compression is 120 psi.

You have a diff lock?! I envy you!!

I actually just replaced the PCV yesterday. No difference . Yeah, I might end up blocking the EGR instead of replacing it.

When you rebuilt the carb, did you actually remove the emulsion tubes and clear them? Also did you replace the small o-rings for the airhorns? (remove pin, pull horn? And plug that big line and ditch the AAV (or replace EGR with an F.I. one from EA82) That AAV system sucks. Ok, Um answer to question 1: Can you remind me where the emulsion tube is? and what exactly it does ? I imagine I did clean it because I tried to make sure I cleaned every inch of that Hitachi. Answer to question two: Pretty much same as answer to question one. Answer to comment 3: Yes I will be ditching that thing very soon. New EA82 EGR is on the way.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152014-ea81-clutch-cable-what-the-hell/ In this fourm you should find all the info you need. Go down to almost the very bottom and youll see a post with pics attached and a walk thru

that sucks you have to do stupid smog tests on your wagon. I can send the parts to you if and when I do delete the AAV and get a new EGR.

Thanks for the info ihscout54. Do you think it would affect my MPG?

Hey Tom. Im really interested in the AAV delete. Are there any negative affects? Such as, wouldn't my car backfire more?(Currently it doesn't backfire at all, or very, very, very rarely.) Would there be any noticeable increase or decrease in mpg? and what do I do with the other tube (the smaller one) that comes out of the AAV? and would the EGR in the link that I posted work? arrggggggg!!! sorry, so many questions at once!!