sirtokesalot

this is the result of a buddy of mines car after he was rear ended. the person that hit him caught just the left corner it was bad the whole corner was pushed back so much there was about a 2 inch gap opened up between the rear hatch and corner that u could look into the car throgh. we spent a few hours with a large hammer and a come along pulling it out to what you see today. if you dont mind things being wrong but looking ok id just make the panel sit right again and drive it if it still drives fine.

they are tires from my dads car. they have been stored indoors for about 8 years no signs of dryrot lots of tread still left were inside a heated basement. the 205 55r16 i have now looked small to me but again they are the tires that my mom gave me with the wheels they did look to be close to what was on there and my speedo is still accurate compared to gps. i dont have a spare 16 inch tire ither can i use one of the 15 inch tires as a spare so long as i put the fwd fuse in if i use it?

i have a 1998 outback i currently have 205 55r16 on it. will 215 55r16 fit without rubbing? i have a chance to get 6 free tires in very good shape.

how bad is it? can you post a picture?

yes that is exactly what they are doing. thank you for finding the video.

i did not want to go back outside earlier because it was still raining the rain has let up i went out and checked the wipers there is no play in the bushings that the wiper arm mounts to but there is play if i move the wiper up and down the window. both wipers move together about an inch and a half travel on the glass.

the wipers on my 1998 outback park in the normal position but when i turn them on the drivers one slaps into the windshield trim on the drivers side is there a common issue to this? i dont think its the wiper arm being out of adjustment as they do park at the bottom of the windshield and are both flat across when parked.

today i noticed a slight thunk when it is in reverse i stuck my head under the car with the door open and held my foot on the brake and tapped the gas i could see the rear diff housing jump up and then set back down closer inspection says the rear diff bushings are bad can this cause my vibration?

i have the subaru keyless entry control unit part number h7110as011 under the dash of my 98 outback. when i had the cover off of it i noticed a bunch of small switches inside do these switches control functions?

exhaust hitting might be possible it was at first and i bent the heat shield up to stop a rattle pretty sure its not touching but i suppose getting the exhaust down and pounding it up farther would not hurt. trans mount and cross member are from the other car witch did not do this before. i did not know that dog bone mount on top is supposed to be adjusted it seemed like it could only go on one way and i just bolted it on at the end of the engine swap in the position it rested in could this be my issue?

its hard to determin id have to say more than every tire turn. i feel it at slow speeds around 10mph through 25mph and if i let off the gas the vibration stops if i push into the gas harder it stops as well.

so i have new tires i have installed the engine transmission driveshaft and rear diff from my old car witch did not make the vibration before the swap. can the cv axles cause a vibration as slower speeds that feels like a transmission chatter or light misfire? i know the transmission was solid and not slipping at all before the swap same with the engine it was not misfiring before the swap. its also not throwing any codes of any kind. if i do put the old cars axles in would it be smart to put them in opposite sides from what they were originally? its a 1998 outback limited with a 95 legacy l engine trans diff and driveshaft. the original transmission driveshaft and rear diff also made this same vibration around the same speed witch also leads me to believe its not transmission drive shaft or rear diff related.

got it there was one way i had not tried yet that i thought i did.

ive been trying everything i can think of and cannot figure out how to make a relay come on only when the high beams are on. i have the low beams constant grounded so the lows and fogs stay on with high beams on i have installed extra lighting i want to come on only when the high beams are on but i cannot make the relay trigger. when i attach the relay to the high beam wires the stupid relay only runs when the low beams are on then shuts off with high beams on i want the opposite of this. i tried every configuration of wiring the relay in front at the headlight connection i could think of and i can only achieve making it on with low and off with high beams or having it come on all the time. today i spent some time trying to get it to work from the wiring under the dash after the high beam switch but this is also proving to be difficult. how can i make this work? i dont want a separate switch for it i want it to just work with the high beam switch.

how hard would it be to say add this function in if i were to get the switch from a 95 for the door lock?

my 95 legacy the power locks worked by pushing the lock on the door or by using the key in the drivers door would work all the locks as well. the 1998 outback i just got has a button for power locks witch works but the key in door only unlocks/locks the one door and does not power lock/unlock all the other doors like the old car did. did the 98 outback have this feature? if so how can i test it?

and finally after all this time my friend has drilled the bolt and re tapped it new bolt in new gasket no leaks been holding fluid for about 2 hours now. now the outback has the full driveline from the legacy l wagon witch runs and drives very good compared to the original driveline that was in the car.

well i pulled the exhaust and pan today got the rtv off it wasent even fully dried in the middle after sitting 4 days though it was dry on the edges rtv came off fairly easy stuck the pan back on for now with 4 bolts and have it ready for my friend later who is coming down after work to drill the bolt out as i do not feel comfortable doing my first bolt drilling in a transmission. exhaust had to come down because it was in the way of drilling the broken bolt. hopefully if all goes well it will be sealed up by the end of the night and ill be able to drive it for the first time with the new trans installed. i bought a gasket because i dont want to wait for the rtv to dry again.

wet sand and after use clear coat.

that was what i was afraid of ive never drilled a broken bolt before. im afraid to drill into the transmission.

ok now i need some help. the transmission i just put in had a rusted out pan witch was why i swapped the pan form the start. the trans i put in had a bolt broken in the corner one of the ones that does not come through the case and out the other side but it never leaked there so i thought it would be ok. the first time i used the rubber gasket and it leaked from the corner with the broken bolt. then i took the pan off and used just rtv copper gasket maker let it dry 30 hours before filling its still leaking from the same corner with the broken bolt. will i ever get it to seal again with this bolt being broken ir will i have to drill it out? im afraid to drill into the transmission casing.

i just took the pan back down and got rid of the stupid rubber gasket used rtv copper gasket maker. do i really need to wait 24 hours to refill with fluid? right now the pan is on but not fully tightened down so the gasket maker will cure a little before tightening fully. will i be able to fill it back up later tonite or do i really need to wait a full 24 hours?

you are correct they were different ratios that is why the diff got swapped too but the diff that is matched to the original trans had a whine the one i installed does not.

the trans diff and driveshaft are in i drove it home but i was stupid and used the rubber gasket that was on the transmission pan i took off and it blew out driving it home now the fluid is leaking out in the driveway from the gasket so tomorrow i get the fun task of getting more trans fluid getting back under there and redoing the pan gasket this time im just going to use the dam rtv gasket maker witch i had but was just lazy. i did swap the trans computer at first but it started throwing the at temp light blinking i plugged the original trans computer back in and the light stopped.

ok i lied one last question. will i need to swap the transmission computer into the outback when i swap the transmission? i did save it and do have it will it make any difference?