85Sub4WD

There is a white Subaru 360 in the James Bond film "You only Live Twice" - it is a background car in one of the chase scenes. - Can't hear it run tho

R-12 is several thousand times worse for the environment than anything you put out through a catless exhaust. It is not only a gas that holds in heat (greenhouse style) it also reacts chemically with the ozone, reducing the amount in a substantial way - had AP Enviro sci last year (that's how I know) - and yes I have vented R-12 systems before, but not recently - I converted to R-134a - bad JY compressor, so it didn't last long - worked for me as well as R-12 - just do it so that you can go to Kmart and pay $4.00 a bottle, instead of scrounging for the stuff BTW How much power the A/C system takes depends on compressor - Panisonic takes little power, but not as good nor reliable as the Hitachi, which takes a lot of power - I originally had a Hitachi on my car, switched to a Panisonic (which blew) and am now switching back to a Hitachi. The Hitachi's are also rebuildable.

I think that you should be VERY sure that the mechanic is correct before doing everything - only times I have seen rear cylinders fail, there was an immediate and noticeable loss of braking power, b/c brake fluid is a lubricant of sorts. Master cylinder you can check visually.

Generally speaking, if the bearings are fine, I would not feel the need to replace them - and even if one does fail, the engine is non-interference, and the timing belts are not hard to replace - a few nasty words, a couple timing belts (and tensioners), and you are on your way! If the engine was interference, I would replace the tensioners reguardless - snapping a belt would kill the engine. No OEM tools needed - really easy job actually.

I did not realize you did not have a cat - sorry

Stay OEM - FelPro is the only substitute period - but OEM is still much better. Have heard nightmare stories about the results of using aftermarket gaskets.

Bad idea - if there are any contaminates in the water (which there are), it will cause seizure/scoring of the internal components in everyting - the steam can also murder components - seen that happen change all fluids, and hope nothing is damaged BTW - did you suck any into your intake - possible BIG problems there - especially if you drowned your engine - possible water hammer damage

Probably the carb's idle adjustment is off, you will need to adjust the idle speed and mixture. Another possibility is the choke is stuck open, or that the choke adjustment is WAY off.

I did not know that - I thought that the EA81 brats (both gen) had the EA81 tranny (side starter), and all EA71 had the EA71 drivetrain (center starter), and that no D/R center-starter trannies were ever made .... - that said, finding an EA81 from a Gen 1 brat will be hard - and it would be a good idea to drop late EA81 heads on it (83 and later), as they have bigger valves.

I recently had to replace a control rod for the inside lock on my left rear passenger door - it just broke one day - sometimes in cold weather when the metal is brittle, things like that just happen

swapping a carb is easier than swapping an engine - I was talking about the easiest mod - not the biggest performance boost - webers are easier to service/rebuild than Hitachis. Also the tranny MUST be swapped b/c a EA71 tranny will not mate with an EA81 engine That said, yes, I would drop an EA81 (with D/R tranny) and do an SPFI conversion on it if it was mine - EA81 not hard - SPFI conversion fun

A big vacuum leak of some sort - unless the popping is comming from the ASV valves - which is (at least somewhat) normal - try plugging the BIG metal tube holes you see in the bottom of the air cleaner box - if it goes away it is the ASV system, if not, big vacuum leak .... or you have an exhaust leak.

no, only turbos have 4-wheel disk brakes

That kinda scares me - big potential security prob - but then again, who would want to seal my car anyway :-p

I have used low-mileage (less than 20k) junkyard struts for my Soob - worked great - rugged as stock for $60 a pair

I assume you are looking at the master key? if so, then yes, it is correct - according to my owner's manual (1985) the key number is only on the master key - Don't have mine with me (it broke in half, so I don't carry it), so I don't know how many digets it is, but four sounds about right. BTW - does anyone know if you can still get master keys from the dealership with the keylight in them? I would be interested in that if I could (and the price was reasonable) - Thanks

yes they do - I would not sweat over an occasional drop - it is probably your front seals - they have a way of leaking .... don't worry about it - I only worry if I eat more than a quart every 3,000 miles

HEY NOW! Oh, he didn't mean you - remember that some dealers really suck (like Southern States)

or oil pump seal

ARG ARG ARG - :cool: I am turning green with envy and foaming at the mouth as I sit hear and read As Rod Stewart said - "Some guys have all the luck ..." Looks like great projects, enjoy them! I know the '85 4WD cars were supposed to have an adjustable front suspenson - I have never seen one that actually had it - though I don't see many - but they were supposed to All 4WD cars I know of have an "adjustable" rear suspension - but it's a real pain to do

Glad you joined! - USMB is a very valueable resource I have an 85 GL - I'll bet it is the disty advance or vacuum - one of the two. I had the same problem as you on my car at one point and found that the vacuum advance had turned into one gummed-up piece of crap. I had the same problem as you a second time, and found a bad vacuum line - though vacuum leaks will likely cause a crappy idle - a bad disty advance probably won't.

OMG - well no EJ conversion for me - that is a bit much weight for me to add to my front end and expect decent handeling

I don't know for sure, but I VERY much doubt that they run leaded gas in Japan. They are stricter about emissions and safety than we are, and their cars typically have a cat converter - both JDM and US - so I think leaded JDM gas is baloney. Furthermore, I don't see how leaded gas would burn valve seats - the reason for adding the lead to the gas is to protect them. In fact many old US cars have to have a lead substitute added to the gas so the valves WON'T burn their seats because they are designed for leaded gas and don't have properly hardened valve seats.

Good point - dirty inside can restrict airflow - clean helps performance Outside clean/dirty - no power difference

1st thing needed - engine info - EA81 manual on below site includes EA71 info too - tho it's for the '83 and later versions - valves are different on earlier ones http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 FI would be difficult for an EA71 engine - difft intake manifold sizes - and an EA81 won't just drop in - best/easiest conversion/mod would be to put a Weber on it GET THE BRAT - it is a 1st gen and those are RARE and very neat - one board member recently survived being T-boned in an '81 by a Dodge Dakota going 60mph - not much left of the Brat - but she was OK - the Brat is a safe vehicle