jread

109usd is current price which is about 150cad. Talked to him today to clarify. They look great but am getting 20 adapter washers for 30.

From what I understood from him they are about 7 bucks USD a lug. Which is almost $150 cad. Unless I misunderstood.

Have been looking for ball seat lug nuts for some peugeot alloys and haven't been able to find any at a reasonable price. These seem expensive but the best I've found. Any reason these wouldn't work? http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005LZQOAO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452125367&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=m12x1.25+ball+seat&dpPl=1&dpID=313sL4ZZglL&ref=plSrch

That kit seems like a cheaper brand with no tensioner. I've been reading get good quality from a reputible brand. Continental, gates, or OEM. Also to just do everything at once since when a belt or idler goes your engine is toast.

I have a 1998 Legacy Outback with the old style. Someone in Vancouver is selling a tbelt kit for 100 bucks vs 300. He was going to put some DOHC heads on another block but never ended up doing it and is now selling the kit brand new. Therefore switching to the new tensioner could save a couple bucks!

Seems like the bracket is $102 not worth converting.

Now I'm debating again. Someone in van has a continental kit they want to unload for 100 bucks! Not used just didn't end up completing there project. Anyone know what the part number for the adapter is? Can't find one.

Woops phone loves double posting

Ocei77 would you say that I likely don't need to replace my tensioner then and can save a few $? Really it doesn't do anything once things are tightened down anyways.

Ahh so doesn't mean I have a different engine with other quirks. Cool!

So recently I pulled apart my motor for a rebuild. Luckily haden't purchased parts yet because I wanted to see the engine condition. I noticed I have a weird style tensioner and that my year and model has come with both. Wondering why they came with different ones which is better and what it tells me about my exact engine model. This is the tensioner I have: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aHHpFy4-sMM/maxresdefault.jpg

Did you ever come across taller springs for the front?

Do you even have a rough estimate? Very interested!

Managed to find some 15" pugs and tires put them on for a week and then realised that I need different lugs and took them off. Also started taking apart my ej25. Going to have lots of time in the next two weeks to research and order parts so I'm going to decide whether or not to franken motor and if I should or shouldn't get a mild delta cam grind. Probably not going to Frankenmotor. Was also thinking about a throttle body spacer.

My question was did the 1 1/4 blocks cause this? Its an sjr kit so it has suspension corrected.

I installed everything and used the 1 1/4 cross member blocks from my outback parts car. Now my wheels have a decent amount of positive camber. Can I only use 1" blocks and get the right camber?

What size flares do you have?

Wow lots of cutting! I did a bunch today need to hammer in the wheel wells a bunch. This thing is really rusty to begin with so I'm not expecting it to last long. I would also like to see a similar shot of the rear if you've got one. Probably have to pick up some fender flares to make it look nice.

Wow lots of cutting! I did a bunch today need to hammer in the wheel wells a bunch. This thing is really rusty to begin with so I'm not expecting it to last long. I would also like to see a similar shot of the rear if you've got one. Probably have to pick up some fender flares to make it look nice.

Damn wish I knew that earlier. Had some time to throw it all together before work but now it will have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for the tips hopefully its enough.

So just mounted up some 215/75r15 I read they would fit on a loyale with not much trimming and a 2" lift but I'm getting rubbing at the rear of the from wheel well when turning. The outside fender itself is all gone now but its still clipping on the plastic which is backed up by some pretty integral looking metal. Don't mind trimming just wondering how much of that area I can trim away before I cut something important.

Seems as though I had just put too much tension on the system when dropping the engine and not undoing the steering coupler... Which is also likely why it was so difficult to do so. Managed to make an extension works perfect now.

Ugh wished that the internet did not mislead me! I can't findnone of these anywhere and don't have a welder!

Its an sjr lift btw

Put my 2" strut tops on last night and the steering is really heavy now. I have a 93 loyale. I put 1 1/4" engine drop from an outback on and didn't extend the steering shaft as I read the double u power steering coupler on my loyale would work. Is the steering shaft the problem or is there another issue. I also disconnected the sway bar could this be the issue?