struculeus

I have a 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 2wd. Last weekend I degreased the engine, and was careful to cover the distributor cap (or so I thought). It ran fine for awhile, until later as I was driving the car just crapped out. I couldn't get it started again. So, I checked the distributor cap, and there was a little condensation under it. I replaced both the cap and the rotor. But that didn't change anything. It occasionally will start up now, if I feather the gas just right (and even then, it won't be much more than 500 - 1000 rpm), but I can't keep it running. It's getting gas, I can smell it. But when it does run, the tachometer is all over the place, and when I test the spark, it seems to be sparking intermittently. Here's my thoughts: 1. Maybe the electronics in the distributor are bad (because of condensation??). I went on my lunch break today to PAP and picked up a disty out of another 87 turbo. I'll replace it and see if that changes anything. Also, I had a spare ignition coil, but that didn't change anything so I know that's not it. 2. Maybe it's the MAF? How do I check that? Those are pretty pricey, and the bone-yard didn't have one in good shape. Does anyone have one for sale? 3. Maybe I should disconnect the O2 sensor? But would that cause the problem? Any help, or advice on what to check would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Personally, I wouldn't worry about until you know for sure that you haven't passed, and by how much. J

1991 Loyale, the rear window defrost not working. The switch seems to be working fine, the indicator on the dash comes on. The fuses are still good. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance! J

Light underneath the dash? I thought the code was relyed through the check engine light in the dash. Isn't the light under the dash on the older ones, not the 1991? If not, where would it be? J

The check engine light comes on as soon as I turn the car on, but when I run the check memory test, nothing comes out. It does't flash, it just stays on. It sucks! J

Torxxx - It has 115,000. Setright - Thanks for the tip, I will look into it. CIS Subaru - I know what you mean. I've had to replace quite a few of those on the other Subs I've had. But usually, the computer will tell you when one of those goes out. I have a spare, and I will replace it and see what happens. I'm open to more ideas if anyone has any! And thanks!

I have a 1991 Loyale. The check engine light was on, the idle is a little rough. I tried to get the computer to spit the code out, but no codes were revealed. The service manual says to replace the ECU. I replace the ECU (with one from PAP), the car starts up, the idle is a bit high, but the check engine light is not on. Then it warms up, the check engine light comes on (d'oh!). Again, I try and read the engine code, but it's not spitting anything out, and the light won't go out! I've tried to D-Check it, and Clear Memory, but that doesn't work either. I NEED HELP!!! To paraphrase Ben Stein in Ferris Bueller "Anyone, Anyone?"

I use a magnetized stubby philips head. When the little bastard is unscrewed, it sticks to the screwdriver. Works well. If you have a dead speaker (or any large magnet) around, you can magnetize any screwdriver. Just stick the magnet to it, and pull it the leng of the shaft the way you would if you were sharpening a knife. Do it a dozen times or so, and the screwdriver should be plenty magnetized for awhile. One you drop the screwdriver or bang things, it'll get unmagnetized, but it should be more than enough for removing the rotor screw. J

Bubbles on the stick indicate bad seals around the oil pump. It's pumping air and oil, instead of just (or mostly) oil. You could be getting better oil pressure with a better sealed pump. Also, because of the H-style engine (or pancake, as they're sometimes called), the oil gunk (which is normal) can get into the passage ways and gum it up, or clog it easier. When I get the tappy sound, I usually run some motor flush through it to try and clean up the passage ways, lifter, etc... so the oil can lubricate better. It has never failed to stop the sound yet (knock on wood). J

Bump... Does anyone have some feedback or ideas on this one? J

91 Loyale. Car runs well, but check engine light is on. I connect the read memory wires, but it will not spit any codes out. I've never had any problems like this before. The book says if nothing comes out, the ECU is bad. But the car is running fine otherwise, so I have a difficult time thinking the ECU is bad. Any experience with this, or any ideas? J

Maybe check the ground, or run a supplemental ground strap to the lights. J

Maybe check the Timing Belts... J

Man, I refuse to sell cars to friends / aquaintences any more. Used cars will always have something wrong with them, because they are used. And when something breaks, or goes out on them, who do they call - you! It's like an implied warranty. And some of it too, is that I feel somewhat guilty, even though I know I shouldn't, so then I generally help them out with the problem. The best solution, is just to not sell to someone I know. When I sell a car, I don't want anything more to do with it. J

Sorry dude, just giving you a ration. Love all around!

Yes, you should replace your belt. I would get one with a big shiney belt buckle, maybe snake skin. Just make sure they hold your pants up! I might have a spare one I can sell you for a good price... J

The car shakes because your wheels are out of balance. Get the tires balanced, your shake and shimmy shall cease. I love saying shake and shimmy. I just don't get to use it enough. J

Maybe check the ground... J

I just dealt with the exact same issue with my Sub about 3 weeks ago. Same 3 lights came on, the whole shabang. It's the alternator. The alternator reads like it's charging, but it has a bad internal VR. When you change the alternator, your problems will disapear like Jimmy Hoffa. If they're giving you problems about returning the alternator, talk to the manager (the customer is always right) and explain the situation. Don't talk to a counter person! I don't think most bench testers pick up the problem, because I dealt with the same issue. Anyway, good luck! J

What about taking the Texaco 5-tank challenge! :lol: J

A normal tank that has not sit has a lot of gunk (especially a vehicle 10+ years old). Where do you think the crap that gunks up injectors come from? It all goes through the tank, the fuel line, etc... Glad to hear you've seen some improvement! J

I read an article on injector / fuel cleaners a couple of years ago, and this was the philosophy: They work. But they also clean the dirt out of the fuel tank, fuel line, etc... and send it all to the injectors and cylinder as well. The best thing to do really is to take it in for a cleaning. Barring that, using multiple bottles I assume will work well, but I would change the fuel filter immediately after that tank of gas. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely HATE taking my car in . There are only 2 things I take my car in for, front end alignments, and fuel system cleaning. And that's only because I don't have the necessaries to do it myself. I just don't trust anyone to do anything serious. But I've always noticed immediate improvement. J

Good idea, although it still has the stock radio. I do have the wiring schematic, and that's a great idea to bring it with me when I head over there. If there is a short in the dash, I wouldn't even know where to look, because there's nothing aftermarket. Doh.... Me thinks me has me work cutsted out. J

OK, this is a little puzzling - I've owned many Subs, all of the GLs / Loyales. I love them, and thought I knew quite a bit about them and cars in general. That being said... My mom drives a 92 Loyale 4dr. She said she was driving along, when suddenly the Charge light, Brake Fluid light, and Parking Break lights come on the dash. She continues to drive, and as she's driving home at night the next day, both headlights burn out, and the turn signals burn out at the same time. But the high beams work, just not the low beam. The car still starts and runs, too. My question is, do you guys think these problems are related? If so, what are the possibilities. All this information is what she told me over the phone. My initial thought, is that a diode fried on the alternator, and it cooked a few things. But how many, and what? She lives a couple hours away, so I can't check it out right away, and I would like to score the right parts before I head out her way. I'm leaving for the weekend, so I won't be able to make it there until Monday. I told her not to drive it in the meantime. She doesn't have a job, so I'll be buying the parts for her, and I didn't want her to cause any more damage in the meantime! Thanks in advance for all the advice and expertise. You guys always come through! J

I've installed those engines in many different cars. I've had good luck with them. Although, with Mazda's, for some reason they have noticably less power. The Sub engines I've always had good luck with. Here's the scoop on the crate motors - They have about 30,000 - 60,000 miles on them. But you'll never know the actual miles. Assume high! In Japan, they don't have any oil reserves. Every drop of oil needs to be imported. I don't know about the whole "not changin oil thing," but the oil they use in their engines is a parafin based oil, which is a type of wax. It's cheaper. Maybe that's why people say they don't change oil. It's imperative that after you install it, at least once run some cheap oil and some motor flush through it to clean it out. I usually do it twice. Also, change all the seals! Always assume the worst! I've spent some time in Japan, and what they're saying about not driving old cars is absolutely correct. The big difference is that the cars are cheaper, because not only do they not have the emissions standards, but they don't have the safety standards, and most of the cars on the road are half the size of what they are here. It's quite interesting, really. Even their trucks are tiny. And they drive on the wrong side! J