zombieblues

Has anyone had experience with gofundme? I am thinking I will build a Score international class 3 car for the baja 500 2016. I've set up a go fund me seeing if I can get $5000 dollars to start it up. Hoping to get enough done that I may pick up a sponser (I know local shop owners that may take this up for the advertisment) It looks like I won't even start with the STI swap as the rules state I have to keep the original motor and suspension design and displacement. Now I'm getting a second subie for my daily driver and parking this wagon in the shop to be torn down and built back up. Imma need a USMB sticker for it too since you guys are the brain behind it anyways

I feel ya! dunno if it would help but perhaps removing the entire arm from the car might be easier then you would have more access to the knuckle itself. I heard that hitting it and cussing at it helps too. I know it helped with my rust stuck ball joints.

Lol. Try using PB spray. http://www.waresdirect.com/products/Commercial-Products/Blaster/Penetrating-Catalyst201982?trackURL=froogle&gclid=CJXCgY3F1cUCFdgDgQodIGcAHg Also.. Autoparts stores sell a spray that sinks under the rust and brings everything off the metal. That should be your last resort. Don't twist too hard on the tie rod as it could twist or snap. Use the PB spray and a torch. I'm sure you can convince it off.

They should just unscrew. I have not done subie ones but on my pontiac it was just screwed on. I used spray paint to tell me the position.

I finally got the dashboard ripped out! Packing up a few parts I sold and thinking about how to move from here. There are a bunch of wires running from the drivers side to the passenger side. I'm guessing they are for the heater?! Does anyone know if there is a way to relocate the fan for the heater... Or any of the air duct system? Ideally I want to keep the defrost and a single vent to heat the cabin. Everything else is just extra weight. Also.... I still have pieces of the dashboard left if anyone is needing any of those parts. minus the speaker grill cover and the speaker mounts.

Last trip I made from Texas to Colorado I made sure to never return! Hope you had fun!

Finished yanking out the dash and getting over the screwball wiring someone did. I think I found my short. Now I need ideas for putting a custom dash back in. Thinking all I want is the guage cluster and some switches. Only a ton of removing and grinding left for me to be ready for the roll cage! The engine rebuild is not far away. Replacing everything I can for forged internals. Is there a list of all the internal parts for rebuilding? I want to get as many forged parts in it. For both longevity and power.

Try releasing the brake line pressure from the bleeder valves. Maybe there is a clog in the line causing it to be stuck.. Or froze caliper like TSB said.

So the car came with no key and the ignition was set up with a metal rod to turn the car on and off. I didn't like it so I stripped the switch down and installed a flip switch and push button. Everything works but gets real hot. Like a short. Could it be that I am using too low of am amp switch/button? I am going to rip all the wiring out and rewire as much as possible to find the potential short/cleanup/weight reduction. Just wondering if anyone out there knows of a good switch I can buy for this purpose. I had bought the original swith from oreillys and it broke from heat and being bumped. Any help is awesome. You guys all rock!

I have these rims but they are painted white. And I only have 3 Anyone wanna buy 3 of these??!?

True. Not the best to jump the gun. I've read so many horror stories that now I trust no person with the repairs of my vehicle unless I am involved. I've had tires set on the hub but not tightened down all the way. My buddy had a high pressure steering line punctured and I've had a clutch replaced when the problem was the transmission (Which I also paid for) Just cover your rump roast. If you don't feel comfortable leave.. And if they really are being shady you can bust their rump roast!!! Good luck Joe!

I would suggest changing the inner rods both ball joins and the struts. When they try to say one of them needs to be replaced contact the BBB (http://www.bbb.org/) , The attorney general (1-877-877-9392 ) and submit a complaint to the state of Oregon dept of justice (https://justice.oregon.gov/consumercomplaints/OnlineComplaints/OnlineComplaintForm/en) If you let them know ahead of time perhaps they will be willing to drop the scam and fix your alignment without needing to get them sued by the state.

I wish I could answer for you. But I am going to be doing my bearing today so maybe I can help you out in a few hours.

I might be interested if the price is right. It's the ea81 yeah?

Beautiful trike!

I set the ball joint back into the arm and pushed the 1/4 axle back in. The long wait is almost up! On Thursday I will be replacing the ball joints the struts the brakes and the cv's. I will be derusting and layering truck bed liner in the wheel wells. I might even get to finish ripping out my dashboard

Yeah FC. I wouldnt mind finding a door lock and a key. But am thinking I am going to install solenoids to unlock the doors keyless. Most of the parts I really need should be new (ball joints quarter axle boot struts and brakes. I wish I could take a brat back window portion and weld it onto my wagon

Sucker king. Is that at u pull it? Have you seen any 83 gl's around that area?

Alright so the full scoop!!! The idiot that replaced the ball joints (Lord knows how long ago!) Used a 20 gauge solid wire instead of the nice solid pin that should be in there. Fast forward a lot of rust..... The wire failed followed by the bolt falling off then inevitably the wheel assembly and tire. The quarter axle popped off the transmission along with the boot. CV seems like it may be fine if I replace the boot. Strut seems to be solid as well as strut mount. So if my check comes by Friday I will be replacing the ball joint, quarter axle boot, Struts and mounts and hopefully not the tye rods control arms or brakes. Sorry I didn't get any pictures while the wheel was under the car. My top priority was to spare any unnecessary damage. I can snap pictures of the progress while repairing and cleaning up the frame around the wheel wells if you all would like!

Awesome thanks! I will have to pull it across a scale when I get the suspension fixed (and whatever else fell off)

Oh yeah! I am doing the heater as an I/O at full speed and locked to 2 vents. One for each seat.

Mine will be around 24 inches long 6 inches high and 12 inches deep. Nothing on the passenger side and a small one for switches and to house the ebrake and shifter between the seat.... Plus a cupholder! I imagine the new one will weight a good 10-20 lbs not counting the speedo tacho and oil pressure guages.

It looks like the previous owner did work and either never put the bolt/pin on. or the little pin snapped and the bolt eventually fell off. I have not pulled the tire off or popped the hood to see what the damage is. I'm just praying its not horrible as I am a poor man.

Luckily I was going very slow! Not sure of the names for the problem parts yet haha. So the knuckle that is on the bottom part of the wheel assembly came out of the lower arm that connects it to the car. Pretty much dragged my tire under the car for 200 feet. Pictures will be up in a few hours after work. Hoping I can revive ole Michael J fox

I was just going by the little tag on the drivers side door jam. I have not weighed it yet. As for the dash I meant remove it and replace it with a smaller more organized one. Like this but no so fast n the furious. http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/zerotolerancefab/Mike%20Vs%20RHino/IMG_2225.jpg Mines an EA81 with a carb. I just had a major problem with it too. The tire assembly fell off and drug under the car.