Legback0203

I run Yokohama YK580's on my 02 outback. Pretty affordable and I've been very happy with performance.

When it beeps once it's in programming mode so if you aren't getting two beeps it probably is your fob. Three beeps means programming mode is over.

If it's the same as a third gen outback then make sure you unlock then open close door before the other stuff. Other than that just keep trying it. Took me a ton of tries with mine

I'm with fairtax. I've had 4 of these so I'm pretty sure. It should have that pcv hose though. They eliminated the T that goes to the airbox in 02. Just goes straight to the intake after that. Yours being a 2000 should have the T set up though.

If it's the same as the 2000's you should be able to pop the cover around the shifter and manually release the lock. It's on the right side of mine. Little linkage moves forward or back to disengage.

My car was MT and donor was AT so it's unclear why some are different.

Also I did not swap the crank sprocket and had no issue. I do however agree with swapping them. Especially if you're doing timing belt as well.

If its the same as when I put an 00 into an 02 than there will be a different vacuum hose set up from the crank case. The old is slip fit on a fat hose and goes to the intake and I believe the air box. The new only goes to the intake and is threaded into a fitting on the block. If you have an npt tap you should be able to tap the inside of the slip fitting. Worked fine for me. It may not be ideal but I think it's worth it to keep original intake manifold and wiring harness. Mine also had a different style coolant temp sensor so swap coolant crossover pipe as well.

I personally feel like hight of the light is a major factor. My 96 suzuki x90 had really good headlights. I also feel like the "pretty" design alot of manufacturers go for is probably difficult for an engineer to get all that light going the right direction. The headlights on the x90 are pretty round so it seems like it would be easier to make them work.

For some reason it didn't want me to open the door after the ignition stuff. Just got it to work. So ignition on off 10 times then just hit the button on the remote. Pretty weird that it was different but it works now.

Have you done this before? I can't seem to get mine to honk. Any more specifics from someone who has successfully done it,such as speed of on off with the ignition or do I need to have the doors all unlocked before I get in or just unlock them after i het in. Ive tried about 8 or 9 times and the instructions are pretty straightforward so I must be doing something to upset the process.

I have a 02 outback I recently purchased with no key fob. I have a spare from a 2000 that I parted out. Can they be reprogrammed at all, dealer, at home, or otherwise?

Thanks for the advice. I have a need to get it out of my dad's shop and with no spare block I don't have a lot of options. I appreciate your input and will take it under advisement. I bought the car to sell but don't want to screw anybody. I plan to put some miles on it before I let it go.

As it turned out it wasn't timing belt at all. The person I got it from got the car in a package deal and didn't know anything. He had been told it broke but had a mechanic supposedly put a new belt on with fingers crossed. As it turns out the belt was probably the same from the last change but the water pump looked fairly new. Some of the timing cover was melted so this car had been seriously over heated. The head gaskets were toast and thus no compression emmulating the supposed bent valves. I'll have the car running some time next week.

I plan to get a full gates kit including water pump all idlers and tensioner. Car has 187k. My heads have 124k. I definitely am going to pull the motor for this job. Was also planning on felpro head gaskets. I've seen that tutorial on head resurfacing. I plan to re-use head bolts.

Just bought an 02 outback that had broke a timing belt and bent valves. I have a spare set of heads from when i spun a rod bearing in mine. What are your recommendations for my heads with potential bearing material in them, head gasket brand, and any other complications I may face.

I can't guarantee by any means but I had similar noises in an ej251 shortly before it siezed. Do an oil change and cut open the oil filter. Take a portion of the fins out and compress them in a vise with a rag around. You then stretch the piece out and inspect for metal. If you see any metal it may be time to begin searching for another motor. There may be a tutorial of some sort on youtube.

My outback and legacy both had a similar issue. On mine the handle to open the trunk was sticky. Make sure its returning properly or its basically still trying to open the trunk.

If the solenoid were stuck "on" I'm pretty sure you would have no awd. This is why almost every time they fail it gets locked. The solenoid opens the clutch. The most likely answer is that the solenoid went bad. I'm unsure if there is any test with a multimeter to confirm but I'm very far from an electrics expert. You can however put in the fwd fuse anf see if the problem persists. If still in awd with the fuse in its probably the solenoid.

Not sure about the cautionary statement but I just did a timing belt on my ej251 which should be the same as far as timing goes and I estimated it would take roughly 40 or so revolutions of the belt for all three to line back up. It takes a little over 9 revolutions on the crank per revolution of the belt. As long as they lined up when you put it on and nothing hit through a couple of revolutions you should be ok.

I would like to point out that while it's my first head gasket that I won't be alone. My dad doesn't have experience in Subarus but is a master mechanic and can help me. Also I am a machinist by trade and deal with keeping surfaces perfectly clean before assembly on a daily basis.

I'm unfamiliar with the process as this will be my first HG. With the sti gaskets do I need to adjust valve clearances or anything. Also what all do I need since I'm not just getting a kit. So far in my cart I have valve, intake manifold,and water pump gaskets. The gates timing kit with water pump. Anything else?

I have an 01 outback ej251 that I'm swapping a motor from into my 02 outback because my motor seized. I plan to do valve gaskets which are clearly bad, timing belt which appears to be original, and I was thinking about head gaskets. Donor car has 124000 miles. So my question is should I do head gasket and what brands for each do you recommend. I've heard gates timing and felpro 3 layer HG.

Forgot about that circumstance when I wrote my post. Getting the extension housing off is not that bad of a job but I also thought it worth mentioning this was almost definitely caused by stuck solenoid so be sure to replace that if you decide to repair existing transfer clutch.

I replaced a transfer clutch in my legacy and while researching the topic one website said something like 99 or more percent of the time if duty c fails it's locked not open. It's most likely one of the above suggestions or your clutch pack. I was basically fwd before doing the clutch and my AT oil temp flashed on start-up as well.