royboy159

Hey Acro---Some can be found on E-bay.

Hey Charles---Lookin' good! Thanks for the update. I think the stud is 7 mm with a 14 mm nut.

Hey Boo---Great goin'!! Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Since the O2 sensor passed the disconnect test, it's worth reconnecting up for the savings in gas. Good luck.

Hey Boo---Yes. The ECU will operate by defaults for disconnected sensors. But the responses vary from poor gas mileage to no run. I believe a disconnected MAF causes very crappy performance at all RPMs. And if this gets you over 2K then it would appear the MAF is the culprit.

The coil looks like it's failing but if your getting a half inch spark jump from the end of the coil wire to the engine metal while cranking, then it's working adequate to fire good plugs.

Hey Boo---The short of this:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=75 is that the O2 sensor only produces voltage fluctuations once it reaches it's proper temperature. It grounds back to the engine through the exhaust pipe. The simple test is to just disconnect it, which will throw a code, but the vehicle will run half decent in open loop at all RPMs. If it doesn't, the problem isn't the O2 sensor. Ah! Just what Northwet said.

Hey Boo---This has my vote. Various sensors can send the ECU crappy info that older model ECUs "see" as reliable and thus send crappy control signals to the engine. I doubt the O2 sensor since it will send crappy info at all RPMs. The procedure for checking it can be found here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=75 Hot wiring as you did could, but not necessarily, cause damage. The damage would most likely prevent the engine from even starting.

Hey b...bus----Taking panels off is a good place to start. There are many causes of window problems but I like checking resistance of switches first. Are the windows operating O.K. off the switches at each door? If so then check out the main panel of switches on the driver's door. Sometimes just cleaning off corrosion in a switch makes it work like new.

Hey Charles---Read the Electronic Control Unit's trouble codes to see what problems it's recorded. Check here:http://www.importautoparts.com/a_subaru.html for help with this. p.s. Please post updates concerning this car on this thread to make it easy to follow. Thanks

Hey Skip---Good to hear from you. The very difficult trick in wet compression testing a boxer engine is to direct a small amount of heavy oil right to the upper surface of the cylinder wall. A few strokes of the piston and gravity will spread it enough to create a seal on ailing rings.

Hey KStretch---Don't forget to do a second compression check with oil to rule out a ring problem.

Hey KStretch----One oil fouled plug might indicate time for a compression check if plugs and wires check out O.K.. All oil fouled plugs---bad news!

Hey Dneu----Before fixing the crossed wires, did codes 21 and 22 come back after erasure? It's very interesting that the ECU didn't detect the very unusual "reference" signal and throw a code 11.:-\

Hey Glen----Great detective work!!!

Hey Bucky---Keep it! I'm sure many are in the same dilemma. For me, a vehicle sat for a year. Enough money but no time. Seemed like it would never be on the road again. Alas not only on the road but entered in show. Moral of the story---there's no predicting what you or your vehicle will be doing even 6 months from now.

Hey Glen---What I should have said is: The purpose of running both FROM the same connect point is to prevent surges. Both BW wires connecting to the emitter inside the igniter. What's missing in the diagrams is the BW wire running from the + side of the coil, and according to Dneu, back to pin 19. Once we have the test results from post #51 we might be able to figure this one out.

Hey Glen----Since two of the transistor's four wires are BW they may both connect to the emitter. The purpose of running both to the same connect point is to prevent surges that upset ECUs. How's that for late night theory?

Thanks for the fourth wire insight. I suspect the wiring diagrams are electrically correct but diagramatically incorrect. I'm sure the condensor is wired into the plus side of the coil but its actual connection point may be somewhere along the BW wire's route back to pin 19.

Hey Turbo----If this is a 95 Impreza I'd say it's not the ball joints. If it's some other model, I'd start a new thread with the model in the title.

Back at post #33 Dneu said he had a pulsing signal from the ECU while cranking which sounds right. Could a power transistor get stuck "on"? I'm familiar with the three terminal power transistor with a collector, base , and emitter. What is the set-up of this four wire transistor?:-\

I think nissan also uses a similar system. But if we keep talkin like this, they'll move this thread to the crossbreed forum.

Makes sense to me if the bad igniter operates like an "open gate". ECU pulses aren't closing it. Thanks Glen.

Hey Dneu----With a pulsing signal from the ECU and an occasional spark from the coil, we may be looking at a weak igniter or coil. Did you check the coil to specs?

This looks right and the white/yellow is closest to the fender.

Hey Dneu----Assuming the coil checked out to specs and if the igniter transistor passed Glen's test then I'd suspect the CAS except why didn't it produce a code? This is getting interesting! Are you possibly using an older model's ECU?