royboy159

Hey Eye W----Welcome a"board". 30,000 is the recommended mileage for filter replacement and if it was original, it definitely needed replaced due to likely small trips. A failing O2 sensor can decrease gas mileage. If the O2 monitor LED is flashing fairly steadily after the engine is well warmed up and running then the sensor is functioning adequately.:cool: Parts stores should always get it right but just to be sure: NGK--BPR6ES-11, NIPPONDENSO--W20EPR-U11, CHAMPION--RN9YC-4.

Hey dneu----If the coil integrity checks out O.K., i.e. primary- .84 to 1.02 ohms, secondary- 8000 to 12000 ohms, and primary to case- >10 megaohms, then I'd suspect the igniter transistor also. Interesting you mention double checking wiring. Is this necessary because it's a retrofitted engine with an earlier years ECU?

Hey Dneu----This is useful to know. I would pull the battery power to trash the codes after making sure sensor terminals are all clean. After two minutes reconnect battery and then try to restart engine. Then recheck codes. Code 11 will indicate a disty problem.

That should take a little less time and money than a ring/piston issue.Let us know how you make out. Good Luck.

Hey Singl----Looks like you did it right. Turning the crank 360 will turn the cams 180. With the driver cam notch up, #2 is at TDC on compression. With passenger cam notch up, #1 is at TDC on compression. Did you recheck compression with oil?

1: 80 2: 110 3: 70 4: 100 Hey Singl----1 + 3 don't look good. Try directing an ounce of oil on each piston and recheck their compressions. If pressures come up, there's a ring sealing problem. If pressures don't come up, then it could be head gasket, valve sealing, or valve timing problems. Checking valve timing would be easiest to start with. If that's O.K. I'd pursue a refund.

Hey Peter---I knew Spiderman drove a Soob! Just a tip. Get the exact torque spec for the new sensor. It can make a difference.

OK Singl----Now we know by compression check that we don't have any upside down rings, misaligned cam gears, etc.. Your getting at least a good 1/2" spark arc to the plugs. The next step is to check all the sensors and actuators according to the manual specs. But first I'd disconnect the O2 sensor, take the vehicle for a 10 mile drive to see how it runs differently.

Hey Jim---Thanks for the $.02, it may be worth alot more someday! Hey Singl---After compression testing, I'd consider poor sensors. Particularly if it runs poorly before the engine is warmed up.

Hey Suba----Where's the respect? When a battery's that old and slow you should've been catching it in gear!

Hey Rebello---Shifting an EA82 at 4000 rpm doesn't have much effect on mpg. 4000 rpm in 4th, 3200 in 5th will get you 65mph. Uping tire pressure in the snowless months can get you 35 mpg without problems.

Hey Paul---Amazing what can be solved if you use a meter. Cars were made with keys that could be removed with the engine running. Guess it created more problems than benefit.

Yes. But that moisture usually allows the engine to run and misfire later. Sometimes. But that moisture usually dries out quik. :-\

Hey JC----Welcome "aboard" Sounds like more moisture in the disty. Any little bit can reek havoc. Takes quite a while to dry out without any extra heat.

Hey Paul----Welcome "aboard":) A keyless system that only works up to 3 feet? Might be the first system to disconnect.

Hey kt----Are you swithching out the EA81t because the original problem it had was never cured? If so, that's a shame. We should fix it first.

Hey Alaskan---If she's got less than 200,000 miles on her than you can't lose out to much by putting money in her. (If it's a he, that's 200,001)

Hey jk-----Welcome "aboard". To get more responses, just repeat the same question in the same thread where the whole story is. Sounds like a starter solenoid problem.

I'd bet teflon would stop electron flow in it's tracks.

Hey Hank----It appears to me that the ground wire back to the switches becomes the hot wire when you hit the switch to run the window in the opposite direction.:cool:

Yea, that's the ticket. Why didn't I think of that?

Hey KS-----Forget the nonconductive grease. I agree. But if you insist KStretch, go dielectric.

It took me awhile but now I understand why changing a grounding point, such as for the injectors, could upset the sensors' voltage drops and therefore change what the ECU does. Also the full text article clarifies why sensor wires need protected from the induction produced from spark plug wires. Which having signal and ground wires running side by side accomplishes. Thanks Hank:)

And the suckers keep coming!!!!!!!!!

I'm learning something new every day. I was told years ago that RF "voltages" made corrosion impedence a miniscule problem. Appears not true. I'd guess my Dow Corning dielectic is something in the middle.