royboy159

Hey NorthW----This is interesting. My dielectric by Dow Corning is recommended for auto ignition systems and electrical contacts of power distribution units. I've used it accordingly but not on anything less than 12 volt. I have no idea of the science behind it.:-\

I've never had any problems with dielectric but then I never used it on low voltage applications. Off to find "bulb grease". Thanks:)

Hey Hank----Thanks for the soldering lesson If the resistances on the 1X meter scale from an electrical/electronic components ground terminal to a bare metal spot on the body always measure less than 1 ohm, then your ground is good. Make sure power is off to the component.

Hey kar---Almost every electical/electronic device on a vehicle has an insulated ground wire (usually black) running back to common grounding points on the body. From there it follows the grounding cables you noted.

Hey Van---It sounds like you type from working experience. I know corrosion doesn't slow high voltage down much. Is there a prefered method to making a good high voltage bond? Thanks,roy:)

A little loop in the wire just before the soldered connection might eliminate stress on the wire and solder.

Hey Hank----I always regarded boaters as the ultimate survivors of the environment. "NEVER SOLDER connections because the vibrations in a boat may cause them to break where the wire flexes by the 'stiff' solder." Good to know. I always thought solder connections were better, just too much work. I've seen them crack but I have m/cycle connections that have lasted. Thanks, roy

Good point.Hey HTi---Were you able and now are you able to read any codes on the MIL?

Hey hti---Without a lit MIL I'd say your LED and/or circuit is malfunctioning.

Hey Ross---I suspect the Soobs' ECU LED only flashes a sampling of the much faster cycling O2 sensor. Yours sounds about right. If it never flashes or flashes on alot longer than off, then ya got a problem.

Thanks Naru. Hey Ross---If this is the case then rerun the coolant temp sensor test but leave it disconnected until after you check for codes with the key on, engine off, with green connnectors connected. :cool:

Hey Skip---Hey Naru---Any ideas? Hey Ross---I can only wonder if your model does have a memory connector that needs to be found. But I gather you already looked under both sides of the dash, both sides of engine compartment, but haven't found a set of probably black connectors. But at this point I'd take any color.:-\

Hey Ross---Is your engine fuel injected?

Hey Ross----After the test drive code 24 should be stored. So with the green connectors connected, the key turned to on, engine off, the LED should be flashing 24. But it's not?:-\ I'd run the engine again, disconnect a sensor to set a code, then repeat the stored code check procedure to verify that codes are being stored.

Hey Ross----It's good to warm up the engine before reading codes. They will flash out on the LED of the ECU. After reading codes as per Naru, leave connectors together, take vehicle for drive with rpms exceeding 2500. When returned let engine running and check for any additional codes. Then disconnect greenies. Let us know what codes you get.

Hey Ross----That's good to know next time I'm in New Zealand. I'd say under the left dash and rear left engine compartment.

Hey Vega---Almost missed there was great audio to go with the video. Thanks for the ride!!!:cool:

Hey Ross----The '83s may have had split connectors. One set under the driver's side of the dash, the other set at the left rear of the engine compartment. Let us know what you find.

Hey rallyruss----There may have been sarcasm but I just wanted to clarify that you can erase stored codes in some Soobs by just disconnecting the battery. Thanks.

Hey Calebz----On newer Soobs the codes won't clear that simple. On older Soobs (EA82), after disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, you'll be unable to retrieve any codes via the LED or MIL by the Memory Mode process. But don't worry. It won't take the ECU long to find those unrepaired problems and set new codes.

Hi dew----Did you find the cure for the CEL?

Hi Medic---Did that steering loosen up on its own or did it need a little help?

Hey syonyk---How's the '88 DL running since the tune up and "european timing" change?

Hey Alf----Sounds like the weight of the passenger flexing the wires/connectors/relays may be producing the window functioning effect. It surprising you didn't get the same effect when you took out the seat and carpet. Did you get the problem solved?

Hey Peter----The idle revs should drop steadily from the 1600-1800 in the 5 to 6 minutes it takes to warm up. High idle revs during that time can indicate a bad temp sensor. I'd also expect a stored diagnostic trouble code for the temp sensor in the ECU. roy:)