royboy159

Hey Mtn--- I'm guessing a wheel bearing. Any free play of the wheels? It could be a transaxle bearing but I've heard that's rare.:-\

Hey 91----I can only guess if you have one green connector dangling on its wire, then Subaru forgot to wire up the other half or someone cut it off. Without it you can't run a diagnostic check and the only way to erase old codes will be to disconnect the battery. I wonder how Coreys makin out?:-\

Hey Peter----Do you also find it idles too fast at times before it's completely warmed up?

Hey phishy----Soob hoses seem unique in that they just don't rupture and leak alot. While the engines hot, twist and poke at all the coolant hoses. The hidden rupture will ususally leak a little more then. I'd first check those small hoses under the a/c compressor. roy:D

Hey dude----Welcome a"board". If you steam cleaned before, you already know it might not run right till she completely dries out. Good Luck.

I like to thank you for coming back to post your solutions. I'm wondering though - did you use a meter to check out the circuits?

Hey Spazz----I never tried this on a tranny plug but when a service garage couldn't budge an oil plug, a mapp torch with a big guy with a big pipe wrench did the trick.

Hey Phae----Good plan. If possible, show up unannounced and drop in that new disty right on the service lot. If she fires up without retiming, just drive away and don't forget to wave.

Hey dew----Hope the diagrams here might help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.c...u_manual_scans/

Can I join the rauchus? Hey Caleb----Couldn't you end up 20* BTDC on the Exhaust stroke of #1? Hey Mudis----You'll have Phaedrus looking for a vac line that isn't there. Hey Phae----Combine their two procedures and you can't go wrong. But before you flip the mechanic the finger make sure he deserves it and then I'll help.

Hi medic---I use a propane torch at the right spots to loosen things up. It's a tough job anyways. I haven't experienced the tight steering afterwards. Maybe a realignment might help.

Hi Mr. L----- I only change gear oil if it has that dark color, burnt smell. And very important -- don't overfill.

Wish I had this info back when my cable broke. A/C core made it a tough job. Got grill off without damage though. For quick repair I just cut old stranded cable to one foot length, looped the end for a pull, and let it hang. A year later, I still haven't done proper repair.

Hey Corey---4000 rpm in 4th, 3200 in 5th will get you 65mph. Hope you're not making my past mistake - thought I had light on #1 wire, it wasn't.

Is that one green connector really just two halves connected?

I hope nothing terrible happened to Senor reek. He's never posted the solution to his problem.:-\ A Loyale I repaired had windows that would work off of direct battery so I took the door switches apart and cleaned them. Problem solved.

Hey BC----I assume you completed the rad refill and burp. Then for the upper hose to be that hot and the rad to feel cool tells me coolant just isn't circulating. If pump belts not slipping then maybe it's a defective themostat or wrong temp rating.

Hey BC---- No! A good running Soob doesn't do that. A bad thermostat will often cause that.

Hey BC-----Welcome a"board". Actually we have an entire continent of Soob lovers. Decent of young 85Sub4WD to guide a newbie in the right direction. You won't always get that on every board. With that greasey coolant and trapped air, I'd suspect a head gasket leak. Do you occasionally notice a bluish steamy exhaust when it's not that cold out?:-\

Welcome a"board", The fixes for tappet noises are many as you'll find on USMB. Also the ways of diagnosing which is the cause are many. I've sort of become fond of mine over time. When the noise goes away, I sort of miss it. But I never fret cause I know it will be back!

Had a tank rust thru. Just wire brushed it off, applied a cheapo epoxy. Held solid for couple years.

Hey Sub---I have a theory on what's going on with your Loyale. It will be problem #13. Replacing the O2 sensor and replacing the timing belts has the car running pretty fair. But just connecting the Test connecters causes the engine to act very sick. It could be that the ECU's test mode programming has become corrupt. If this is true then no retiming or part replacements are going to stop the engine dying in Test mode. And codes stored in the memory may not be accurate. I've heard cheap ECUs can be had for $50. But your ECU may run the engine for quite a long time without further failure. roy

Hey Tin---My guess is that an important connector in the dash has worked loose since you found all fusible links and fuses to be O.K.. Also if you post most everything about a particular car in one thread, you'll get more readers and thus more good advice. If your still able to pull the DTCs, that be my 2nd plan.

Hey Sub---I have to retract my recommendation in post #33. I don't know alot about neutral or clutch switches so my test may not help.

I agree with Skip. Internal grounding was probably added to vehicles when external grounding proved to be too unreliable. But those internal grounds have to be less than 1 ohm all the time also.:cool: