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and the cable is made into the cd changer. Yours is quite unique. Lucky you.

A rare treat!

from my 99 Forester. I don't know if it is the same or not. If you don't find just what you want I'll check in the garage tomorrow night to see what it looks like.

over and over with old Greyhound busses for years. Usually with a co driver except for once when he quit and once when he got sick. Usually 72 hours.

and one wheel is on the ground I think they might be right about the coupling.

in your manual or file what is going on where. If you have excess wear orf say, a white lean condition always happening on one cylinder it can give you a clue if you have problems later. Say you might have a vacum leak in the manifold and the plugs could show you where.

the plug and it is not a problem. It is not that unusual to have one back off when you remove it. I have seen mechanics lose the washer, jam it on the threads cross threaded and stick it, and crack the plug by torqueing wrong. This just show you can screw up anything if you try.

When you do those downshifts a bit early or a good grind by error that is what you get. If it sounds and acts normal I would not be concerned. If I had unusual noise and metal I would worry.

and add it before you drive back. On the good side most trannies will survive this if it had fluid enough to move. Also most shops have insurance for this.

manual L series with 100,000 miles. If both wheels are off the diff just lets one wheel be spun. The driveshaft stays in place. This is with the five speed in reverse and emergency brake off. If I jack up the right rear wheel and leave the left down the tire cannot be spun. It just takes up driveline play. This makes me think the VC stays engaged all the time.

This is something I have fitted to a number of racing engines in the past and the dyno showed almost nothing. Looks nice but I think you would get more bang for the buck but fitting a less restrictive air filter system.

a hammer and small screwdriver. You come from the bottom, catch the the end of the key and tap up. I have not done this particular job so I hope you have room enough to try this. A lot of folks on this board have done this so I am sure one of them will also have a good method.

I would say a valve job and do the rest of the engine later. I used to live up in Maine myself and 30 years ago it was hard to find a good mechanic, and it does not sound any easier. This is a true tale of woe and mechanical incompetance. He might have half a chance if he fitted a whole CCRNC engine new, hoses, radiator, and new sensors. If he uses the same folks they will probably fit the engine upside down and charge him $8,000.

And I am not sure if you can turn my rear wheels freely. If you don't get an answer I can check mine this weekend. I would not be in a hurry to change an expensive part like that unless I was very sure it was bad.

Step on the brake fairl hard with a friend watching the hose. If it swells that's the rpblem. It might just have been wear on the rotor if the pistons are free. Watch the brake with the wheel off while a friend applies the brake. Do both sides apply and move evenly? When you spin the wheels after application does the caliper free right up?

replace if any wear is visable at all. Then use red locktite, the mechanic's friend and tighten the sucker to the specs these folks reccomend.

is showing wear on the rings, pistons, and cylinder walls. When you do a valve job you are freshening up the top of the engine without helping the half tired bottom end. Of course it is going to burn some oil soon. These 2.5s aren't the engine the old 2.2s were. If I had that particular car I would either change the whole engine or sell the car.

99 is so tidy!

be different I can just tell you it can be either way. There can be a rubber insulator between spring and strut or not. Some cars have a seperate cap that goes on top of the strut and some don't. I know that is no help but I have never seen a strut from your type of car apart. All of them have a cap that holds the top of the spring and the bearing the front stut rotates on. The nut that holds the whole thing together usually rests on a washer. As long as no one is listening I will tell you another way to cheat for time that will appall 99. If I have air available I just compress the spring and spin the nut off with an air wrench. No holding no nothing. When I reinstall I air wrench the central nut back down with a drop of red loctite and the old nut on top of it. So far I have always had room to install the second nut. I have mechanic freinds who are a shocked to see I don't hold the central rod carefully and torque the nut.

struts recently I just used a hacksaw to cut the little tabs that hold on the brake lines. I removed the clip and sawed the narrow spot while holding the line out of the way. I then bent the tab over and removed the brake line. When I installed the new ones I cut and bent the tab in the garage before taking the strut out to the car. I saved quite a bit of time over bleeding the brakes on this job, and if I want to remove the stut later it is easy. On my BMW the brake lines just clip out easily so I don't think this hurts anything. A dab of paint on the cut area will keep it from rusting later.

If you will forgive the quotation.

You have seen the reference mark on the strut. The bolt head has a number of reference marks around the edge to help a technician figure out where he is for alignment. If you mark exactly oposite your strut reference with a punch before you turn the bolt to loosen it you will be very close. Most of the new struts are going to be in tolerence if you use this method. The bolt has a cam on it that and you move the bolt head to adjust. When you tighten the nut you freeze the adjustment. Keep in mind I have done about a hundred front ends so it may be a bit easier for me.

When I changed the struts on my Forester I punched a mark into that bolt head next to the locator mark. When I reassembled the car I put the bolt head in the same spot. The alignment was so close I really could have passed on the alignment job.

while doing major engine work so a thermostat is a good start. The hoses should show up in a pressure test if they are the problem, but if old change em. I don't live in engine heater land anymore but never saw a problem other than a kinked hose when I did. Pop the radiator out and have it cleaned and inspected while you are doing the hoses and thermostat and get on good terms with your personal God. I suspect in the end you will have to change the gaskets but we can all hope.

and be unable to locate a small intermittant Head Gasket leak on a Subaru. I always thought the HC test would find it but apparently it does not always show up untill it gets pretty bad. Tiny head gasket leaks have always been a pain on any engine.