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a while back and these folks encouraged me to get the 99 up for the SOHC. I'm glad they did.

folks.

Toyota and Mercedes Fuel cell hybrids on Weds. A bit slow off the line but driveable. Hybrids are in your near future.

equipment I agree. Jimmy diesels have used steel O rings for years with little rubber o rings for oil and water passages. They can take a beating for half a million miles. When I was a kid I had a Norton I fitted with a soft thick copper head gasket. Stopped all gasket problems I was having becuse of an extreme compression ratio. Sealing head gasket surfaces is nothing new and I am surprised Subaru has done such a bad job of it. The thin metal gasket of the new ones is a bit better as they are allowing the head to support the liners. Studs would be good except for the head removal problem.

I never heard of this sensor. Where are you in San Mateo? I am on South Fremont.

1 It does not start when cold. 2 Is well described in the thread above. Erratic idling and running. worth your while to read the other threads on this. looks pretty easy to replace on my car.

I live in the SF area and my Subie Forester averages 25 MPG. I rarely get really stuck in traffic to the point where I am stopped and the weather is good here, so no snow to buck. Some folks who live in the country do much better than I do.

that round.

rusty and it's 80 degrees out?

in good condition and the ride is fine. Tires, springs, and stuts have to be viewed as a system. In order to get a working system you can't change bits willy nilly. If the ride is too harsh go to tires with a bit more profile. The cheapest way would be to try a friends similar tires on yours to see if that is what you want before spending a lot of money. If you are trying to make a performance car you will have to live with less ride quality. My BMW rides like a truck but it is flat as a brick in a corner.

don't plan to paint for a while. Just for fun spray WD40 onto a test surface. Clean off and then paint it.

today. There was a reason I moved to SF from Maine and you guys are helping me remember it.

elated for you. Great when stuff actually works.

possible that the low oil pressure may have triggered this by the famous weird knock sensor. It seems to me I have heard of this being an oddball Subaru problem. I suppose it is also possible that the low oil pressure triggered it. I would have it checked ASAP by a competant Subaru mechanic as this might end up in court. Good chance it will be minor, it is also possible they knocked off a sensor wire.

Most likely it is a gasket. On big diesels we inspect what we can visually and with dye. Then you just make an adaper to seal it and pressure the heck out of it. This is not rocket science.

shops in that area are too lame to be able to test your heads plunk them in a box and send them to CCRNC to be checked and rebuilt. If they they say they are good you should be fine. Is UPS too lame to send them?? I am amazed because I could test them in my garage and I don't have a whole machine shop.

the clutches taking up if the RPM was on the exact engagement point, but this should be the same weather you have emergency brake on or foot brake on. This is another problem where you could make a heck of a lot more progress with the car right in front of you.

it would make you think it is brake related. The only vac component in the brakes is the booster. If he uses the emergency brake instead and it does not do it the booster is fine. No it cannot be the axles as they are not in motion at a stop. Needs more testing.

2.5. It does seem that you can cure the late 2.5 and even if you do get a leak an external weep is not that scarey. With the new gaskets I have no problem with mine and gosh subaru is going to give me a whole can of goop free! Plus the 100,000 mile head gasket warranty would make me feel better on a post 2000 Legacy or 99 up Forester.

buy an old cop car at auction? You are slowly making one. I don't see why you could not do that if you want to go to the trouble. There used to be some boat spotlights that might be easier to fit there though. Do you have a West Marine type store handy?

a pair of 99 Forester front rotors and a stock rear sway bar? I don't think the rotors have been turned and seem to have a lot of life left in them. Hard to beat free. This stuff will just get rusty out in the garage. I also have the stock radio and Cd player around. Cd player skips.

disconnect the line and plug it. Then get in the car and try it. Don't drive it more than at a couple MPH to test. If it is a leaking booster this should show you because the car would run fine.

when the car becomes a computer factory. BMWs are famous for the battery going flat when left for a few weeks without running. I love the fact that I can leave my 99 Forester at the airport for three weeks and it starts right up.

pretty quick. I just got about 27,000 mile on a set of Dunlops on my BMW. I have Bridgestone S03s on there now for about $1,000 mounted. Will probably get less mileage out of them as they are softer. Check Tirerack.com for all the evaluations and ask over there on the tire expert board. The Michellins on my Subaru are the second set at 100,000 miles and sure are holding up well. Since I bought it used I don't know when they were changed. I think that unless you have a pretty serious suspension under the car or unlimited money a compromise tire would sut the car better. Tire Rack has reviews and if a lot of folks liked them it is a good sign.

knowledge of electronics. This would work better than the way I do it if you have bit more skill. So far I have gotten by muddling through the way I was taught but there are always better ways.