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As for moving to Alaska Nip, as far as I'd go would be Tahoe... I think 50-50 also gives me the lube and anticorrosives I want in there but that reminds me I should check out those hoses before winter. Sure is a lot easier to change them in the current warm weather here. The fact that if you add too much antifreeze you actually lose freezing point is why we alsys used a hydrometer. At five bucks or so they are much cheaper than frozen engine blocks.

you want to check everything. Any moving part is subject to tightening up in the cold. Back there salt gets on everything down low and it sure does not help bearings and tie rod ends.

Let's hope he doesn't hit the $5,000 mark on his new engine too!

A number of folks have had very good luck installing NAPA limited slip rear end fricyion modifier. Do a search as this seems quite easy.

Yep, and I'm being a lazy dog and leaving the uderpan off my Forester. I hope I don't pay for this if I get into mud again this year, but it takes me as long to remove the pan as it does to turn the Fumoto valve and change the filter.

We have had a few reports of high mileage 2.2s having piston slap. Remember Setright? I would not sweat piston slap but sticky lifters would bug me. Are you near anybody who could listen to it for you? They are quite distinctive sounds and lifter noise often stays when warm. I just switched to Havoline in mine and it made a big sound change in the piston slap, much deeper, seems to muffle it a bit. I got the idea from folks on bobistheoilguy. I was kind of skeptical since I used to run Pennsoil dino and I figured Havoline to be about the same but it isn't.

There have been some so CA sandrail folks who have built Subaru engines as far as practical. There are such good turbo Subies around it is a waste of money in MHO. The the turbos are cheap for what they do.

If it were my car I'd jack it up and try the sreering for free movement and wear. It's not unusual to have stuff like ball joints bind in cold weather.

It might just mean things are a bit old. If you have reduced the tick to only when cold perhaps the other half of the MMO on your next oil chance will cean it out furthur. You might check on bobistheoilguy site becues those folks do a lot of cleaning on older engines and you might get a tip you can try. I'm of the tear it out of there and put a new one in school so I'm not the best guy for this kind of thing. When my Mercedes had a tick at about 200,000 miles I rebuilt the engine and after teardown I could have gotten by with a valve job and new cam and lifters. I did have peace of mind though....

I run 50-50 here in SF just like it says on the jug of anti-freeze, no real challenge for heating or cooling here. I don't even bother to test it because it would take an earthquake to get me somewhere it would freeze.

Up in Maine at the begining of winter the first thing you did after the oil and thermostat change was to put a hydrometer in the antifreeze and see what temp is was good to. It's not good to have your antifreeze good for zero when it's 20 below outside.

Fnlyfriend, I haven't a clue what the new material is, I expect they just went back to what worked for years.

That's a good point 99. A place here offered to put it on a test machine for $120. I decided since the ox sensors were old anyway I'd try the front. $60 and fixed. Definately more cost effective.

Sure, rare but it happens.

My 99 Forester's first clutch was just starting to slip at about 90,000 miles, this wwas an organic lining clutch and the new replacement is great. About 40,000 miles on this one and it feels fine.

I agree with jon, I regret not buying an S model as those features are quite nice. the easy to work on rear brakes for me and the heated seats for my wife. She loves the heated seats in our BMW.

Get at least a 99. The 98s had the same phase 1 engine he has now with a bit more chance of head gasket failure and much harder to work on. The phase 2 that starts at 99 in Forester and 2000 up in Legacies is a simpler single cam which is an improvement. Oddly enough I have a 99 Forester for this reason. You can still have a head gasket leak but it tends to be an external one that can be cured by a sealer, or the early ones have an extended warranty on the head gaskets until about 100,000 miles if I recall correctly. They still need to have the oil level ket up though.

Most of them slap when cold. If it does not go away when warm it may be a problem. Oil burning is relative. On that car if you add a quart to 1500 it may be on the high side of normal for an old car. Of course some will burn little oil but if he is running it low he will soon be damaging your checkbook.

or an exhaust leak if we failed to mention that. 99 pretty much has it. The only one that would really scare me is a clogged cat and that is easy to determine. A bad ox sensor might cause cat problems also if you let it go too long if it caused a rich mixture.

For me I read the directions on the jug and the car manufacturer's reccomendations. I don't trust the Porshe club as far as I can throw a 911. I prefer to get my advice from engineers and chemists rater than lawyers and dentists in this area. Now there are other areas I prefer to get the advice from the lawyers and dentists...

On my car PO420 was just a slow front sensor. It took me awhile to make up my mind what to try so I cleared it a couple times and it would go away for months. Did not seem to make any driveability or fuel issue on my car, just that glaring light. I would not have gotten through and emissions test here with it. Keep in mind mine was a small issue compared to a plugged or broken cat.

If the tensioner fails it is often a fatal blow to an engine like yours. Sooner would be good.

If you are short too you may be just living up to your name. It's your car and you can do anything you want to it, but better get a daily driver because it will be apart a long time.

I think they would also. now they get about half the load in a full accelleration, in a two wheel drive they would get all the load.

Last I heard Ford made a 150 with rear wheel drive already!