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porcupine, What you would really notice is lean in the corners at high speed.

Sounds like a clutch master to me, but the squeak might be internal, a pilot bearing or throwout from being misadjuated. Subarus use an actual tiny bearing for the pilot. This cost me a few hundred bucks to find out.

When I had the same question on my Forester folks told me that storage bins were available. Circuit City sold me one with the installation kit and it is pretty handy, it holds a paperback or three cds.

and frankly there are so many 2.2 lovers here that we applaud you!

I had the master cyl carve on mine too. That moved the take up point way down. Don't forget the pilot bearing while you are in there.

I did that one to myself. I was waiting for my wife and cleaning the car with a rag. When she came out the lights were acting funny. Luckily I knew where I just been cleaning. The one I do now and then that makes me feel senile is to hit the fogligght switch and drive around with them on like a simpleton for a week or so. That little warning light is hidden behind my Forester steering wheel.

It is usually the sender and there are a couple tricks that sometimes work. The easy one is a bottle of Techron. that has cleaners and it has worked pretty well if the contacts are not too corroded. The other thing is to take the sender out and clean it with an abrasive. Usually it is enough of a pain to remove one that installing a new one is better.

I've been planning to install an oil pressure gauge in my engine compartment for a year now. You are making me glad I've been too lazy.

I hate the stuff in fix a flat as I've had to clean it out. It can also harden into a lump and blow the balance. The BMW kit comes with a plastic bag of goop to add to your repair which makes the same mess. I'd use that rather than walk back, but it is a last resort. The one time I've had a flat in the bimmer I just pumped it up and it held to a tire shop, I don't want those guys to hate me. They are still working on it but in a few years nobody will have spares. I think the paranoid will have to carry them on the roof. If I was out in the sticks that full size spare in my Forester would help my confidence level. I've spent a whole day in Nevada waiting for a tire shop to open on Monday am for a tire for a Dodge. Finding one that would work on a Subaru could be really interesting out on the road. You would not want to install a tire that costs you a grand in repairs in the end.

dum da dum...there are many mysteries on the internet...this is just one of them.

I spin them on with a ratchet and then torque to specs. I leave the torque wrench out and set up and retorque after a day's driving. Then I put the wrench away and forget the wheels till next time.

Sorry to hear that. Your car was in the wrong place at the wrong time. I once had a rental Chevy in Texas that looked like it was hit by a thousand golf balls form hail.

My BMW and a lot of the new ones don't have a spare at all. I get lifetime roadside assistance for free with mine and a tire pump. For this reason I have a Porsche collapsible spare for trips and for everyday use I carry a couple of cans of fix a flat and a tire plug kit. My Forester has a 1999 spare in the rear that has only been out of the car to check the air. when I got the car the tires were half gone and I would not dare to fit the spare unless it was an emergency.

Quuuality is job one. In preparation for a trip to Mexico about 30 years ago I rebuilt my Volvo wagon engine replacing all the usuals. I fitted large fog and driving lights, curtain for the windows, a paint job, lots of spares and tools and I was off. I must have made 30 miles from Sonoma to Vallejo and it overheated. My brand new thermostat failed and I ended up pulling it on the side of the freeway. I think that other than my relationship that was the only breakdown on the trip. Thermostat about 5 bucks. House about 70,000 bucks. May all your breakdowns be little.

I've only worked on a few but they all took 4.2 quarts. My 99 2.5 does too.

Have you run into ones that were tough on just one side? I recall having stuff come off easy on the left and with a torch on the right. I reckoned this was due to the right running in more salt and water near the ditch. It kind of stands to reason but the taller the vehicle the easier it was too. Old trucks that were up a bit from the salt were sometimes easier than cars, but not always of course.

It's kind of funny that I just posted about rusty cars I had seen in the past up your way 99. You must have had the same guys figure out salt levels that we had in Maine. Boy I sure don't miss that salt in CA.

See, another place to change the head gaskets.

Since I have worked on cars, trucks, and busses in several states I have noticed some interesting local differences in rust. It may depend on the snowfall where you live and your particular roadcrew workers and what they think is a good mix for salt, as well as how your car has been maintained (often by the PO). When I came from Maine to NY and NJ I thought the cars were practically rust free. The I saw some farm counrty cars in upstate New York where it looked like fenders were optional.

Nipper is a brave man who is about to test his theory of head gaskets by a cross coiuntry trip with his phase 1. This is really putting your money where your mounth is. I am glad to know that Nip will have his laptop so we can follow his progress, and Nip you can use my garage and tools if you need to change them here. By the way, are you in touch with any particular diety?

Fingers crossed....neither of my current cars has had me walk back yet. My Mercedes got its first tow at about 90,000 miles. In the 17 years I owned it the car hit the tow truck five times. Oddly enough the same part caused two tow truck incidents becuse they never did really improve it.

I have seen bearings fail to the point where they weld together and spin and ruin the hub. I have not yet seen one bind without welding, but I suppose there may be a point where they do that.

And you probably get out of operating a car cheaper than I do Wayne. I am a picky old ex mechanic and I need my car to give me the same confidence I'd have if it were near new. Since the head gaskets can cause a tow in they are one of the items I would do myself.

So we may be learning that one failure mode for Subaru wheel bearing might be binding?

the phase 1 is DOHC and a bit hard to work on. The phase 2 is SOHC and a bit easier I think. If it were my car I'd change the head gaskets while doing a major service that included all seals and the oil seperator plate. After that I'd expect another 100,000 reliable miles with little attention. By the way that is what I did to my 99 Forester at about 89,000 miles and all I have dones since is change the oil, brake pads, and a new ox sensor. I'm now at 129,000.