kayakertom

Zukira, I'll save the delete plate for you; my driver's side mirror is black, so I'll want to match it. This dl xt does have a rear seat, but it may have been added by an earlier owner. The lack of power steering and no air conditioning really will make working on the engine easy - lots of access compared to my previous 89 xt gl with an auto trans. The guy who sold the car put a new water pump in, with new radiator hoses and then messed up the driver's side timing belt - looks like the tensioner was loosened, but not retightened before the car was started and the belt jumped some teeth. Guess I'll find out soon if the reason for the new water pump was overheating and head gaskets...

Have to redo the timing belts as a start; looking for a passenger side mirror, rear center reflector, possibly a better driver's seat. Know more next weekend. It's just fwd with the 5-speed, 140K.

Tell us where you are; I'm sure someone nearby would help.

Let's see the rest of your "OMEGA GT coupe"; is that the same as a 3-door?

My recent suspected clutch noise turned out to be coming from the power steering pump - the noise change when the clutch was pushed in was from the rpm change the power steering pump experienced.

Update: The noise actually was coming from the power steering pump and not the clutch bearings. Had a spare power steering pump and now the noise is gone. Anyone ever rebuild a power steering pump?

Yes, more noise when the clutch pedal is pushed. Guess this points more towards the release bearing.

My 88 dr wagon has recently developed a bearing noise at low rpm that goes away when driving; no noise at idle. I think it is either the pilot bearing or the release bearing. Having just switched the motor in early August, I'm not too enthused about pulling the motor again. If the noise is from either of these two bearings, what's the worst case for a failure? Any other possibility for the noise?

Have you done the basics lately: check air filter, check timing, check color of spark plugs, check distributor cap? Other possibilities - fuel starvation due to partially clogged fuel filter and a throttle position sensor that needs the connector contacts cleaned.

Good find; looks like it didn't come with factory ac, which helps keep the engine from running hot and eases access for maintenance. Too bad no factory roof rack. I'd second the hitch mounted bike rack - too easy to scratch up the tailgate with the clip on bike racks.

Helped a friend do a head gasket on his '90 Loyale and was surprised when after 3 weeks he got the milkshake back. At the time, I was a little bothered by the antifreeze he used and it appears that his use of the red - RV antifreeze for water tanks was the cause of the brand new Felpro head gasket disintegrating; we also took the 2nd head off and that head gasket was also mush. Lot of wasted time and cost because of someone going cheap on antifreeze.

Great job on rescuing that 3-door; I like the color and interior. The 3-door is my favorite of the ea82 series - still looks modern, great economy, plenty of cargo space. My 87 gl 3-door is the 4wd and I converted from auto to manual d/r. You have given me some ideas on upgrades, thanks a lot. BTW, is your You-tube video #20 on your 3-door on the web?

Swapped out my problematic gl wagon motor for a lower mileage one that I had resealed last year; took off all the air conditioning parts in the engine bay and put on dl alternator brackets. Could be time for a new project now that the 88 gl wagon and 87 gl 3-door are running well.

Yes, 14mm.

Sorry, but I can't follow your logic about not disconnecting the green connector. You have missed my point about using sealant around your temperature sensor - ask yourself how a sensor with one wire might not be able to work properly if it is insulated where it is supposed to be grounded...

You say "the green plug is plugged to green plug with eachother" and people have told you twice to disconnect them. (When they are connected, you are disabling the electronic vacuum advance.) Are you using NGK plugs? Do you have good ground connections from your engine to frame? Did you use some sealant when you installed your throttle body temperature sensor? How did you correctly set your timing?

This is the kit, I will use: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2386-k-d-tools-2125.aspx With the helicoil, I don't like the idea of the end of the wire that gets knocked off remaining in the combustion chamber for in-situ repairs. With the D K tool, you are supposed to be able to use the reamer without drilling, but it looks like I will have to drill out a little metal before tapping. Will be using grease on the end of the drill, reamer and tap to collect metal shavings.

Coming home from work tonite, my #1 sparkplug went ballistic... The ea82 wagon was a little loud, but it made the 4 miles home - mostly downhill. The ballistic plug stayed attached to its wire. Get to try out my D-K rethread kit.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the rear flange on the oil pump pulley - look for scrape wear on the pump itself behind the pulley.

612k miles? It would take me a 50 -100 years to put this many miles on my subaru wagon... http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/1990796194.html Ad will expire in a few days.

For those of you who have recycled engine blocks, do you knock out the steel piston sleeves to get the aluminum price or is it not worth the trouble? What's an expected amount to get for a short block? (Time for me to clean up my bone yard.)

Took the brake/tail light assemblies out and discovered that the the black caulk used to help seal the opening was missing on the top of both. Cleaned everything and applied fresh calk - so far no leaks. It was a pain to undo one nut on either side - need 8mm deep socket to do it easily. The solution offered by themoneypit would also probably have worked. Good tip on checking that long hatch seal Caboobaroo. ........................................... Great to have USMB back...

Will look at this, thanks.

No spoiler on my 3-door.

OK, so it has been raining a lot in Oregon and I'd like to keep the water on the outside of the car... Searched , but didn't find find anything useful. Anyone with a 3-door or rx know how to keep the water out? The rubber around the hatch area looks good.