kayakertom

Sounds good. I'm just trying to decide what size fuse to put in line with it and also how to switch it on - am thinking that I will use the presently unused thermoswitch with a manual over-ride switch.

Went to the closest junkyard yesterday to pick up various parts and one thing on my list was an ea81 low profile radiator fan to put on my 87 3-door in place of the clutch fan. Found only one in the yard and it looked so-so, car had 175K on odometer. The yard charged $7. Cleaned it up today and took it apart to look at the brushes - looked very good with about 3/5 of each of the 4 brushes remaining. Put the fan back together and repaired and lengthened the wire harness. Tested the amperage draw and it was about 5 amps, is this normal?

I clean and wire brush all the bolts I take out and then use a light coating of moly/graphite engine assembly lube on the threads.

Buy it - the xt is a great vehicle, I actually just sold the one I had for 6 years yesterday. They are generally very dependable; if you get it running, then it's easily a $1+K vehicle.

The relays are behind the dash display for ea82, They are circular/button like in shape. Have you checked your headlight ground wires?

I'll buy the beer if some 3at auto trans expert in the Portland area is willing to do a hands on seminar on this topic. I have a pulled 3at with the same problem and am reluctant to junk it.

Intake manifold gaskets: It's not a direct path for getting coolant into the oil, but you don't need much water in the oil to make a milkshake. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51447 Head gaskets: Depends on how long it was run with the problem.

I would drain the oil pan and the radiator, add new oil, then do a compression test. If it looks good, just change the intake manifold gaskets - just use oem subaru intake gaskets. Another easy fix possibility is that the heads are not torqued down properly.

Update: Was able to fix my ignition switch problem by replacing the back-side electrical module. The electrical part of the switch comes off of the ignition switch with just the removal of one small screw - a little awkward to reach but not too bad. The loyale, dl, gl electrical module has a longer pigtail than the xt, but is otherwise the same. Cheap fix for me - took the module off of my parts car. No more hunting for a sweet spot when I turn the key and hoping that it will start.

I replaced that vacuum module on my gl - one button got stuck because of cracked plastic. I recall there being 4 or 5 vacuum hoses. It was a bit of a pain and I was lucky to have a replacement module in my donor wagon. As I recall, the top and bottom curved plastic pieces above and below the buttons pull out exposing hidden screws. The dash has to come off and I remember there being a wire cable for the heat control lever that was a pain to release from the module. Best to get a module out of a donor vehicle before tearing into your dash. Good luck.

Another possibility is a dislodged valve seat - the disc that surrounds the valve. I found one in my donor vehicle. The head has to come off to fix.

Anyone know if the loyale type ignition switch is a replacement for the xt ignition switch? (The xt switch location is to the right of the steering column not on the steering column and mine is about worn out; already have a new in box replacement loyale switch.)

On the westside - U-Pull-It in Sherwood off of 99W. I'll be going there soon. On the eastside - " " off of Foster I have a set of lightly used unmounted michelin xzx 165r13 tires for sale. pm me if you want to take a look.

Have you checked your oil? Does it look normal or like a milkshake?

I've used washers to shim the pulley on two cars so far with no problems.

Looks like you have a dl wagon; when I replaced my front passenger axle on my dl wagon, I added a small heat shield made of thicker guage sheet metal - used the flange where the heat riser connects as my attaching point. My heat shield has a couple of small bends to curve around the boot for maximum clearance.

Do a search for "governor".

Hi, You have nice basic transportation, but I wouldn't get too attached to the car. Get your real estate license and an entry job in the field and reward yourself with a newer subaru. In real estate, you wind up driving clients around and your car becomes your second office. If I were driving around with clients, I would want a vehicle with up-to-date safety features like airbags. Good luck.

Yes, that's the business.

I got 2 last month off of ebay for $60 each, have posted the info in the forum covering ebay and craig's list. One went into a loyale and one into a gl 3-door. The radiators are for auto trans but work just fine in manual trans vehicles. I think it was 4 days for them to be delivered.

I changed over an auto 3-speed to a d/r manual recently and it is fairly straightforward. Check the rear differential on both to make sure that you have the same gear ratios - 3.9 for non-turbo or 3.7 for turbo. Search through the Older Generation forum for details. Drain the fluid in both trans before removing. It looks hard, but it is easy to remove the steering column to change out the pedal assembly. You don't need to remove the collar around the steering column near the firewall. When reassembling, put the steering column in without worring about hooking up the double u-jointer that goes to the steering rack - remove the lower bolt for the necessary play to install the other end on the steerng column. You'll likely have to change the spedometer cable. Taking off the dash is lots of fun - paractice on the donor car first. You'll need to put a little electrical jumper to bypass the neutral start. Wiring up the back-up lights is a little tricky, pm me if you have a problem Need to use the longer driveshaft from the manual donor car. Take your time, if possible.

It sat for 3 years unused with the person I bought it from and unknown history before that. Just need to get my back-up lights wired up and maybe the 4wd indicator kight before I install the interior trim pieces. Thanks again for your advice.

SUCCESS!!!! rguyver and Nug, I owe you some beer. Tried the 1st to reverse for about 10 agressive shifts, heard a clunk; started the car and the transmission began shifting normally. Have finished setting the timing and driven it a number of times along my long driveway in fwd, 4 hi and 4 lo. I was not looking forward to pulling the trans. Will post some pictures soon.

Clutch feels like it is fine - in order to test the gear selections, I moved the car by holding the clutch pedal down with a board wedged to the front seat and then pushed it out of its parking spot.

I've just gotten back to this problem. In neutral, when the clutch is let out, it goes forward as if in 1st. In all other gears it acts like it is totally bound up and the motor will stall. Very hard to place back in neutral position. Have not heard any gear grinding. External shifter linkage is still intact. Is there any hope for freeing up the syncro gear? Should I drain the trans oil and refill with atf? "sounds like your shifter linkage fell apart and is stuck in gear Is it stuck in one gear ? like 1st or will it actualy go in to 3rd + 5th you will know when you let out the clutch and you have to slip it to keep it from stalling if its in a higher gear , is a clutch cable moving freely no stiff spots , the only problems i have had with suby trannys is they lockup in two gears if the sincro gear gets jamed in eg. 1st then the shifter moves with out taking it out of 1st and locks up when tryed to shift in 3rd to 5th 2nd wont be there"