kayakertom

I'm trying to identify what years and models the following half shafts are for; Subaru part #: 23291GA430 Have 4 that came from an Ebay auction 2 years ago and have misplaced the paperwork that came with them.

No; I have another mpfim non-turbo engine, that does not have it. Maybe, I should rephrase the question: Are oil separators on ea82 mpfi motors just found on turbo blocks or is this an improvement that appeared one year on all mpfi blocks?

If you ever get the chance to drive a well maintained non turbo mpfi ea82, you will notice a big change. This design was a necessary step for subaru to develop its present day engines.

On the rear of the ea82 mpfi motor I got this morning there is what I think is an oil separator mounted on the passenger side of the short block (sits behind the flywheel); is this just found on mpfi turbo ea82's? (See the thread on cl/ebay items for sale - ea82 motor - has a link to the cl ad with photos.)

Bolts picked up. ..... I have a set from a donor engine, call and pick up before 3pm. Tom

With a transmission jack it is not bad. Drain the fluid first. Good luck.

If you have good tread on your rear tires, I would put the rears up front and your unmatched pair in the rear. Should have same type of tires and wear pattern for the fronts.

I still plan on removing the bumper in order to add nuts to the three oversized bolts that I installed. Will also see about adding those extra 2 bolts. I'd also like to put the towhooks back on - will look for longer bolts.

Finally got a Hidden Hitch for my 87 dl wagon and was too much of a hurry to bolt it on. These hitches bolt on using the 7 bolts from the rear tie down rings. Three of the seven bolts broke when I tried removing them and it was a big pain to drill out the studs and retap the threads. What I should have done is take my time and remove the rear bumper; with the bumper removed, you have easy access to spray on penetrating fluid to the bolt threads / welded nuts.

Eastside: Foster U-Pull-It (near 205) Westside: Sherwood U-Pull-It (on 99)

It will only get worse and lead to other problems. The pivot ball stud and retainer wire clip may also need to be replaced. I'd get a new wire clip from the dealer and used fork and ball stud - don't forget to grease the joint.

My latest project is an 88 gl wagon with a d/r transmission; previous owner had a problem shifting, here's why: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=16407&cat=984 The flywheel seems to have been recently resurfaced, but the pilot and through-out bearings had to be replaced. Car should be back on the road this next weekend - have resealed the engine while it was out.

Worked for me; I followed the links to an '87 gl and it came up with a range of bearings from $8.29 to $30+.

Take it to the NAPA - Beaverton Auto Parts store, they know what they are doing.

Tits are plural, what I described is a different (lower) part of the anatomy of a clutch fork.

I recently picked up a project wagon with the same symptoms you describe. When I pulled the engine, I discovered that the clutch fork had failed at the hemi-sphere indent where the fork pivots - the pivot ball broke through the fork metal. The only way to fix is to remove the motor and replace the fork.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but aren't all ea82 rear shock assemblies the same basic design? Here's my report on replacing rear shock cartridges on my xt last year before I sold it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62489 ...........

For the rears, it is fairly easy and inexpensive to replace the shock cartridges. You take out the whole unit - no special tools and then disassemble. Don't even need a spring compressor. If they are really old, you may need to replace the hard rubber stops and maybe the plastic dust shields. Best to source these parts before you start.

If your fuel tank is original, it could have enough debris to clog your 6 month old fuel filter. Why run Bosch plugs? I've had problems with them after only a few hundred miles.

Black electrical tape does a good job in hiding the auto trans indicators. I did an auto to d/r 5 speed trans swap and considered it too risky to mess more than I had to with the dash.

If you are still unable to open it, I can help on Sunday afternoon. I have the same year / model, so we can figure it out.

In October, it took me 5 trips to DEQ in Oregon to finally pass emissions with my 87 dl wagon. New plugs, cap, rotor and a fresh oil change helps. Can you do your own timing? Clean up the timing marks on the flywheel through the access area with a wire brush and use white-out to clearly mark the correct timing mark.

Would double check that the timing sprockets are correctly aligned, dump the Bosch plugs for NGK. Did you disable the vacuum advance when you did the timing?

Daeron: my plan is to tee in a vacuum gage to verify a leak. GD: It's SPFI and does idle up with the ac button depressed.

OK, this was a new one for me - might help someone else. My '87 gl 3-door has been on the road for a few months but has had an intermittent idle problem that has baffled me. Started the car today and it idled fine; decided to cycle the ac on, let it run cold for about 5 minutes, hit defrost and the idle goes really low, rev it up and then cycle through heat, defrost, bilevel, ac, off and defrost boggs it down each time. Guess I'll be avoiding defrost and pulling the dash after it warms up.