kayakertom

Have you timed the engine recently? Using NGK plugs? Good plug wires? Once you have it running does it have normal power and normal gas consumption? Seafoam might help a clogged injector, but your motor symptoms don't sound like a clogged injector.

Use an ohm meter and test for continuity of the two wires when the trans is put into reverse to tell if it is the reverse switch. You will likely need to clip off the connector and add wire lengths to bring the leads to the electrical connector by your shifter. You can figure out the appropriate two pins to connect to by either using the meter on the auto shift mechanism or a wiring diagram. You can solder the ends and jam them into the connector. Be careful routing your wires so that they don't interfere with the shift linkages.

No, when you bolt it on the top, the bottom holes for the ea81 fan shroud don't quite match the radiator. One other consideration is to keep the replacement fan for the clutch fan as the primary - the ac compressor will get too hot otherwise.

Along with the IAC, the other thing to check is the 2 terminal temperature sensor - check cold resistance - 4K? and clean the connectors. Is the MAF nice and shiny? I would also clean the MAF connector along with the throttle position sensor connector - spray with electrical contact cleaner and let air dry. I finally found a use for a ratcheting right angle screw driver I've had for a long time - those 4 screws for the IAC. You also want to have some gasket making material for the IAC on hand if you can't reuse the old one.

Let us know when you are going to PIR for a run, I'd go to watch with a camera.

I remember back in the 70's when the Japanese cars started appearing in large amounts and how "Lost in Translation" the ads and owner manuals were - lots of confusion that was very amusing. No wonder the confusion continues today. I think Leone might come from this language jumble: Le + One.

Take off the top of the air cleaner and verify that when the engine is cold that the choke has closed the butterfly valve. The choke is electrical, so clean the electrical connectors and also the mechanical parts. Check your vacuum hoses carefully. You can adjust the choke also, the choke won't go off with tapping the pedal as it is electrically controlled.

Are you pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor a couple of times first on the colder mornings first before trying to start? (That's what the owner's manual says to do and it works for me.) 2K or a little higher is right for the fast idle until things warm up, if it's higher, you tap the accel pedal to kick it down to the 2k range until the choke goes off. Check your ignition wires and clutch pedal switch for the starter related problem.

Looks like we are going to do the same thing... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66295 Where are you finding these EA-82 (MPFI w/o turbo) engines?

Initially, I don't want to modify or change over the heads of this motor.

mpfi non-turbo xt motor - 9.0 compression ratio. Being in the NW, there are at present several cars available - gl10 turbo wagon, and hondasucks has a xt turbo awd manual available. no more auto trans subarus for me

When I had my xt, I was the high ebay bidder on a professionally rebuilt mpfi non-turbo motor. Never had to replace my xt motor and recently sold the car, leaving me with the fresh motor. So, the question is: any major problems in putting this motor in a turbo ea82 vehicle and removing the turbo bits?

Well, your rear driveshaft won't have a place to be connected to the 2wd trans. What's wrong with you 3-door vehicle? Might be easier to swap your loyale motor into the 3-door.

I've just reversed myself on doing the dual electric fans and have reinstalled the mechanical clutch fan (a little nightmare putting that back on) on my 87 3-door, which has ac. I did this because I noticed that both sides of my ac metalic hoses were hot after a short drive. I think that without a sufficient amount of cooling air blowing over the compressor area, that engine heat will just conductively heat things too much. My 87 dl wagon with no ac, no power steering and no clutch fan is so much easier to work on - too bad it has a hitachi carb.

I recently did the back-up lights on my auto to d/r conversion and it was a little confusing. I ended up cutting off the plug on the transmission reverse switch assembly, soldering on a couple of feet of wire to each of the 2 leads, drilling a hole through the front left of the sheet metal surrounding the shfter location, covering the wires with heat shrink (doubled up for the bit that is through the hole) and bringing the wires around to the left over electrical connector. You can use the auto shift mechanism to tell which 2 pins to use or a wiring diagram and verify with a jumper that the back-up lights go on. I just soldered the ends of the two leads individually and jammmed them as pins into the auto electrical connector.

Replacing the cartridges is fairly easy; when I did it recently on an xt, I found that I didn't need to use a spring compressor. I would check your local autoparts store prices to compare costs. The plastic dust shield and hard rubber bumper and spacers may need to be replaced, so I would look into the availability of those parts also. Not sure what are the differences between 2wd and 4wd, but my guess would be in the coil springs.

The 2 center black wires (which may have a stripe) of the electrical connector by the shifter need to be jumpered.

I'll look into triggering it that way, thanks. If the USMB people in the rust belts of the US saw the vehicles in the NW junkyards, they might scream.

http://www.powells.com; if this doesn't work, search for 'Powell's Bookstore, Portland". Warning: your cash may disappear - Powell's is addictive - one of the reasons I won't move from the area...

Have you checked the resistance of the temperature sensor you hooked up? Also, diisconnect the battery, wait a couple of minutes, hook it back up and reset the ecu. Lykke-til.

Sounds good. I'm just trying to decide what size fuse to put in line with it and also how to switch it on - am thinking that I will use the presently unused thermoswitch with a manual over-ride switch.

Went to the closest junkyard yesterday to pick up various parts and one thing on my list was an ea81 low profile radiator fan to put on my 87 3-door in place of the clutch fan. Found only one in the yard and it looked so-so, car had 175K on odometer. The yard charged $7. Cleaned it up today and took it apart to look at the brushes - looked very good with about 3/5 of each of the 4 brushes remaining. Put the fan back together and repaired and lengthened the wire harness. Tested the amperage draw and it was about 5 amps, is this normal?

I clean and wire brush all the bolts I take out and then use a light coating of moly/graphite engine assembly lube on the threads.

Buy it - the xt is a great vehicle, I actually just sold the one I had for 6 years yesterday. They are generally very dependable; if you get it running, then it's easily a $1+K vehicle.

The relays are behind the dash display for ea82, They are circular/button like in shape. Have you checked your headlight ground wires?