
kayakertom
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Everything posted by kayakertom
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Don't know the general answer, but I've got a project '90 Loyale wagon that is maroon with grey rocker panel factory paint - looks sharp.
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88 GL wagon timing problems
kayakertom replied to Mykeys Toy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There is a green pair of connectors near the brake master cylinder that gets plugged together when you do the timing @ 20 degrees. This is an electronic advance disconnect that is equivalent to pulling off/plugging a vacuum advance. Disconnect the green connectors after you have set the timing and tightened the 2 10mm distributor bolts. -
It's easy to pop off the caps on the lifters, disassemble and clean them. The spring inside is not very stiff, so squishy is good. If there is debris/dirt they do get hard to compress or pump-up under oil pressure. If the lifters are not acting properly, then it will definitely affect emissions and power. Reassemble the lifter cap using a socket and a light hammar tap. I rotate each piston to top of stroke before removing carbon and never get anal about removing all of it.
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I've done it 3 times on different vehicles in the past year without the special tool. Just tighten the bolts enough to support the pressure plate, maneuver it with a rod/screwdriver so that it is centered by eyeball, torque the bolts to the correct value. When you lower the engine in place have the car in gear and e-brake off, so you can bump the car an align the shaft gear in through the pp.
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I've also had that problem in my '89 XT. My diagnosis was a clogging injector and now I add injector cleaner to my fuel tank about every time I do an oil change.
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If you have the 3 speed automatic, this is the 3at transmission and one of the typical problems is the easily fixed "governor gear assembly" - do a search. Have you checked the transmission fluid level? (Driver's side dipstick.) Check for level and color/smell. The alternative 4wd auto trans is the 4 speed 4eat trans that came in the XT and RX models. This would mechanically fit, but would also require some linkage and electrical changeover. You would also have to match the rear differentials.
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Is that a squirrel or skunk hanging from the rearview mirror? Roadkill?
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New toy, '89 RX(pics)
kayakertom replied to Free Range's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You have a running turbo '89 RX, but want to pull the trans and differential to put into another vehicle? What trans does it have - d/r or 4eat? 3.7 or 3.9? What vehicle are they going into? -
New toy, '89 RX(pics)
kayakertom replied to Free Range's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Why not offer a trade for the parts that you want and save some labor and time? -
has any one use one of these
kayakertom replied to 7point62fmj's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The cotter pin in the wheel bearing kit is used to keep the castle nut (36mm) from loosening after it has been properly torqued. -
The adjusting threaded rod for the e-brake is located under the plastic tray that is below the handbrake. Those pistons are sometimes hard to turn without the proper tool. I've sometimes used a hammer and metal rod to tap rotate them back enough to allow new pads to fit. You can get by for a short time without the dust boot, but it sounds like its time for the brake calipers to be rebuilt. How are the rotors?
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Timing belt component kit. Good deal or rip off?
kayakertom replied to somick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I also ordered and quickly received the kit. If you call to pay rather than doing Paypal, then they also ask if you want a special on a water pump. The costs were: $64.95 for the timing belts, idler and tensioners. The water pump was $29.95 and shipping was $14.95. Total: $109.85 -
How do you know if a DL is Fuel injected?
kayakertom replied to cndymyfrnd's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Nope, my '87 dl has a Hitachi carb with all of the confusing hoses. -
Last year when I got my project '87 dl wagon, I expected that I would have to replace the engine so I bidded on an Ebay motor from Mokato_autoparts and was the high bidder. It turned out that I was able to rebuild the existing motor in the dl, so the Ebay motor just sat unused until I got another project recently. Project 2 is a '90 Loyale and had serious motor problems but a very straight, rust free, nice two-tone paint body. So for the past 6 weeks, I've been wrenching on it. Got the Ebay motor installed, running and took a short trip around the block. Then I noticed that the radiator wanted more coolant and I added some, but then shut it down when it seemed to want too much. Checked the oil dipstick and discovered foam. Drained the oilpan and saw a foul milkshake - coolant in the oil that had been churned. Decided to pull the motor (out in 2 hours) to see what I did wrong. Found that one side of the intake manifold wasn't torqued enough. Have taken one head off so far and also discovered that Mokato didn't use the reinforced o-ring under the camshaft housing. Cleaned up that side of the motor and replaced the head gasket and installed the proper o-ring. Will finish the other side tomorrow. Moral of the story: Should have double-checked for the proper o-ring before installing the motor and taken my time installing the intake manifold.
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engine stand worries?
kayakertom replied to dave valiant's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've done it several times now without any problems. The longblock weight is around 250 lbs (110kg), so you really aren't stressing anything. It makes it so much easier to do the transferring pf parts. If you have any worries about your engine stand, use a bench with some wooden blocks under the oil pan until you are comfortable with the engine stand. -
I picked up an '87 gl coupe here in Portland on Jan 1. It has the 3 speed auto / push-button 4wd with the 3.9 rear differential, spfi. This is my next project vehicle - the auto trans has the governor problem and possibly something more serious; and it has two bad sparkplug holes (helicoiled, with one failure = ballistic sparkplug). The body and interior are exceptional for an '87, no rust and the wheel wheels have been nicely coated for additional rust proofing. My plan is to try to get it running as is and to gather the necessary parts to dump the auto trans and put in a d/r manual and to totally rebuild the motor. Will be doing some research to see if I should try to make it into an rx.
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$250 For Piston Rings?!?!?!?!?!?!
kayakertom replied to TheSubaruJunkie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
$85 from AutoPartsWorld: <http://www.autopartsworld.com/subaru_parts.html> I've been happy with parts and service from them. -
I've made a heat shield for my '87 dl wagon. Made it from scrap roof flashing, about 7" (wide with 2 small angle folds) and 12" long with a tab - bent, that attaches with a hose clamp to where the heat riser pipe connects with the cat. The folds allow it to dip down below the boot for maximum clearance. It's been on for 3 months and has held up well and the boot is never hot. Tom
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My red 90 4wd wgn no rust
kayakertom replied to pkennedybluewrx's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You guys probably don't want to know how many no rust dl, gl, loyale wagons keep popping up for sale in Oregon. -
timing belt, help quick!
kayakertom replied to buzzcon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've had an '89 xt gl fwd auto for about 4 years now and really like it - drives like a slot car. Even though they are ea82 blocks, with the mpfi they are a bit harder to work on - a little more complicated and more time is required for taking things apart and putting them back together again. The main test I would do is to see how well it runs at hiway speeds. Another simple* thing to do would be to inspect the sparkplugs (*not always). Tom -
Hi, I'm in L.O. It's easier for access and for aligning the camshafts to drain coolant and remove the radiater and grill. The 2 T-belts should cost about $45 total. Since you get access to the oil pump and water pump you may want to do some preventative maintenance also - replace micky-mouse gasket on the oil pump and consider replacing the water pump. If you decide to replace the water pump, take the old one to the parts store to match up the height with the replacement one (there are two replacements with different heights). First time for replacement and no other problems - 2 hours. Tom 503-881-7872 (I'm off today)
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Almost sounds like a clogged fuel filter, have you changed that lately?
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johnphils has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space. .............. Hi, Need to replace most of the exhaust system of my '87 dl wagon - all the pieces after the catylitic converter. Also need a waterpump for a '90 Loyale wagon. Tom in Lake Oswego
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Problems with emissions
kayakertom replied to Tsullappliance's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There is an angled air/fuel adjusting screw on the right side (facing the engine from the front of the car) of the Hitachi carb, but unless you have a meter or have done it before, I'd leave it alone. New NGK sparkplugs and a can a seafoam in the gastank and a little bit of highway driving before retesting may get you through.