thedoctor

Speedometer cable replaced in August 2011. It may need it again. But I still need to figure out this capacity problem. According to my dipstick, I should only need 1 qt to fill. Does that make sense?

Forgot to mention my transmission serial number is 013339, if that is helpful to anyone. Also, I want to mention that I have been having a problem of transmission gear oil travelling up the speedometer cable and dripping on the drivers floor. Is it possible that this transmission only requires 1 ONE Quart of gear oil? Please discuss.

1983 DL non-4WD transmission capacity is listed in How to Keep Your Subaru Alive as "almost 3 quarts". I drained mine and dumped in 2 quarts, checked the dipstick and it showed about double the fill amount. Take a look at the photos. Is it possible I have the wrong dipstick?

I just came in from the garage to report that I got spark and THE ENGINE IS RUNNING! Somehow I did exactly what you said, but I just read your message now! I didn't like the looks of that Lamp Cord, whatever the hell that is. I got rid of it and just tested what was hot with ignition on, etc. Unbelievable. Hallelujah!:banana: Thank you. By the way the engine sounds really good. There is still that red carb heater wire. Where do you think I should hook that?

I guess I will get rid of the capacitor since it is for AM radio interference, which I don't care about. Q: What could possibly be going on with the Lamp cord? One wire to distributor and one wire to the positive terminal of coil? Q: Is cable Z the original feed from IG? My next step is to put in this new coil wired the same way as the old, except for capacitor.

I labeled some photos I took after pulling the coil up out of its bracket. Top View: What I was calling the front terminal is actually the negative and it only has one wire on it not going to the distributor but to what I have labeled cable Z. There is also a wire from the positve terminal labeled ??? going into Z... and Z goes I don't know where. The black wire with the yellow connector to positive goes to a capacitor and then to ground on the left head at the EGR pipe shield. Then there is the Lamp Cord, which receives a wire from the positive terminal and contributes a wire to the distributor after passing through a splice. I cannot begin to understand this. However, the car has run very well for almost all of the 150K I have put on it since 2004.

The thing is I didn't touch these wires pre to post engine removal and reinstallation. But I do want to clean up any messes. I went ahead and got a new coil and will put that in tomorrow morning. I will take a better photo and post. Thank you for your help.

No spark at #3 plug. Resistance is ok across primary and secondary coil circuits. No spark at coil wire going into top of distributor. Meter shows 12 volts reaching the front terminal of the coil. See photo. I don't have a clue why there are 4 wires on the rear terminal of the coil. Replace coil? It just seems odd that it was working before I pulled and reinstalled the engine. Your thoughts?

Sorry. This is an EA81 powered 1983 DL with Carter-Weber single barrel carb. And on the right rear of that carb is the item shown in the photo. The red wire runs, almost as an add on, all by itself over to the coil. I thought it was fastened to the front post of the coil, but I must confess I did not document that. Everything else about the engine was re-installed properly. However, with the air pipes gone, I had to plug various things and I may have made a mistake on some vacuum connection. But would that prevent any firing at all? Here's the photo. Let me know if you recognize the device. I am more concerned about the muffled knocking sound and I am concerned about fuel delivery.

The heads were worked over by a reputable machine shop and they passed their vacuum test. I'm sure I adjusted the valves properly. I enjoyed the progression of 180 degree turns. I did not screw up intake and exhaust. Still there is a muted knock coming from the right side of the engine and no start after re-installation and everything hooked up correctly. With the possible exception of the red wired device shown in the photo. This is something attached to the carbeaurator and I cant imagine it would prevent any and all firing of cylinders. I got nothing. Also, the fuel filter under the dash has no fuel in it at all. I tried pouring a little gas down the carb, but that did nothing. I thought of trying some ether to see if I get firing. To sum it up, I'm more than a little crestfallen after working on this all weekend and off and on for almost a month at a casual pace. I need to follow a logical path and I would like some advice.

Very cool. Thank you very much.

Thank you very much.

Need a little help with this piece. Is this part of the coolant bypass system? What does it do exactly?

Thank you. This gives me a place to start with it.

Thank you. Let me know if you see one of these in your collection. I'm going to need to replace it, but I'm going to try to get this thing running over the next few days.

I get compliments on my '83 DL... usually from middle aged men, lol. But I truly appreciate them.

I hope this is interesting for some of you experienced mechanics. I really appreciate the information. I really want to understand the entire vacuum system and what is essential to the engine running and what is less so.

I am preparing to put my ea81 back in my 83 DL. I noticed this thing has a hole in it. What can you tell me about it?

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EA81 is stamped on the block. I have a single barrel Carter-Weber carb. And the vehicle is front wheel drive.

This is a 1983 dl ea81 Is there is any chance I don't need this piece?