bmaness

They sold me NGKs and OmniSpark wires. They also sold me anti-seize and dielectric grease. I had to watch a web video to see how to properly apply the grease... All in all a pretty amateur job for $40 in parts and an hour or so of labor. I gassed her up and rezeroed the trip meter. Before the bucking started I was getting 22 mpg. Surely i'll pick up one or two by making this repair.

I pulled the old plugs. NGK's. 3 were dry but the front left had oil film on it and in the hole it came from. The wet plug gapped .070 and the others weren't far behind. I won't get the new parts until tomorrow. I think I saw .044 as the gap. Do they go in dry or can I use anti-seize? I also presume I need a 16mm spark plug socket to get them in more easily?

So I drove it for 90k miles at least before it started bucking. A trip to oreillys magnolia in the morning for plugs and wires.

I checked r ockauto and plugs and wires are pretty inexpensive. Should I replace the coil as well?

100k at least on plugs and wires

And I meant to say above, it never died. I looked at the timing belt ( I'm running naked) and it looks good. So I started it, idled for awhile, and took it on the road with no recurrence. The car runs like a dream when it runs. So now I think I know it's not plugs, wires, coil, timing belt, or gas. But, I know it will come back. At a I opportune time no doubt... Ideas?

My 95 legacy started intermittent bucking today. All speeds in all auto transmission gears. Almost like bad gas but not quite. I limped home and am trying to dope out my best move. I disconnected the negative battery terminal and am waiting an hour to reset the ecu. I keep reading about MAF? Master something I suppose...There was no check engine light. Most everything is original. Hose s look good but it might be pcv as I've read. Have not changed plugs or wires in at least 100k miles, but I've heretofore had no cause as the car runs well. I did replace the fuel filter awhile back. I plan to drive it around the block in a while unless it would be considered a poor decision.

I almost fried the ol girl (95 legacy wagon-189k) yesterday. When my morning commute came from the highway speed part to the stop and go part, the temp gauge started rising and the ac quit blowing cold. I got off the freeway and shut it down. Opened the hood and she was hot alright. Overflow tank churning. From my experience in the previous post, I suspected the cooling fans were not coming on. I know when I'm having a problem because the ac clutch kicks out and the temp gauge starts climbing. I don't know when the fan(s) are supposed to kick in and out. I don't know what signals the fans to operate. A short in the harness perhaps. All I know is idling at ambient temps of around 100 degrees with no radiator fan coming on will run the temp gauge to the top in short order. I let it sit 40 minutes, while checking the fan fuses. Tugged on the fan wire harnesses for good measure. I took off the cap, filled it up with just a little water and started it back up. Thermostat opened. good circulation, so I shut the hood and went home just like nothing was ever wrong. With the ac running no less. I got home and let it idle, figuring it would overheat in short order and I could get a better feel for what was going on. Problem was, I could not get it to repeat the problem. I saw a video where the guy hard-wired the fan to a switch operated from the cab. In my own bit of brilliance, I thought I might could rob the fog light lead and wire it to the fan lead. You could just leave the fog light switch on all the time so that the fan fires when you start the car or switch it off when not needed. Suggestions?

No problems on my end. All new rotors and all new pads and relatively easy installation for less than $150. And, I don't have to grit my teeth before the front-end shudder that used to come when applying the brake.

All done now. Pretty easy except I couldn't figure out how the new clips worked so I used the old ones. Burned the pads in at 5 x 40-10 and 5 x 30-10, then a cool-down and all seems good. I didn't get it up to speed to see if I needed an alignment but it seemed ok.

I hadda go to O'reilly's in Magnolia where they lent me a piston compressor and they went in easy using the proper tool. I'm on the fronts now...

How far should the piston retract into the caliper? I'm doing the rear brakes and can't get over the new pads because, it seems, the piston is not fully retracted. I used a BIG pair of pliers instead of a c clamp, so I didn't get as rough trying to compress it as perhaps as I should have. There is about an 1/8" piston lip still sticking out. What say ye'all?

I'm a newbie/amateur on my first real brake job. My 95 Legacy Lsi made it to 188k and now the rear brakes are making bad noises. I looked and found the left rear rotor rough and pitted. My eyes aren't very good but I'm guessing the pad on that side, and likely the rest, are wo down to da ground. Oh yeah, the "Brake" dashboard light was lit when I fired it up this morning, but it went out after a few miles. Right before I started hearing the grinding/rubbing brake noises... Oh yeah, and I started getting a steering wheel shake when I hit the brakes. It felt mostly on the left side.I probably needed an alignment but instead had the front wheels spun and it got a little better. I figure my front rotors are warped/worn. The local O'Reillys gets $10/rotor to resurface. If I have to pull them anyway, I might as well go with new, eh? So, my plan is to order Rock Auto KOE444 with 4 rotors, 4 sets of pads and, seemingly, all one would need for the job. I truly value the opinion of the members of this forum. What is the suggested approach?

KYB KIT334112?

Still trying to find "knock sensor 101" Can you help?

So it now becomes clear I installed fwd struts on my awd legacy. They work, but are a might difficult to get in. Minus 10 on me...Did Not Follow Instructions Hope to do better on the fronts. Whose should I use?

Wow, you folks overran me a bit. My 95 Legacy wagon is AWD. I want to do the front struts now. Are they the same as the rears?

Well, I got it. But not after getting rough with it... 1lucky texan's shot of the 2x4 trick made me realize I had the right idea, only I was putting on instead of putting out. I switched my 2' 2x4 for a 6' 2x4, and laid a 50lb sack of manure on the end to hold it down. I could then lift the assembly using both hands while looking through the rear glass to line up the holes. Once I got the top holes stabbed, I blocked it up on the outside and ran the 3 nuts up inside and it was good there. I wrassled the assembly bottom end onto the spindle mount and maneuvered my 2x4 lever to get the bottom hole aligned. Then I undid my 2x4 and used the scissor jack and brute strength on the bottom of the wheel hub to get it into position to insert the top bolt. I used a bench vise and a cabinet clamp to compress the coil spring enough to get the upper mount off. On the next one, l'll let O'Reilly lend me a strut spring compressor. I used a pipe wrench on the 17mm socket with the allen wrench run through the drive hole to get the upper mount off from the old strut. Jeepers, I sure hope the other side goes easier. Thanks y'all

What I supposed to be a relatively easy task has once again morphed into a nightmare. I bought kyb's 334164 (right) and 334165 (left). They did not come with a "bump stopper". It appears these 2 units are identical except for the brake line hose support location. I also supposed that "right" (334164) means passenger side. Someone please tell me if such is not the case. I watched that guy's videos on how to remove, rebuild, and replace the strut. I got the broken rear strut out without a whole lot of heartache. As I now try to stab the rebuilt unit into place, there does not seem to be enough room to maneuver the unit into proper position. The bottom of the strut is hitting the hub and drive axle while the top of the mount is close but not inserted into the 3 holes in the cab. I pried down the wheel hub some but it wasn't enough. I feel as if I need to somehow compress the shock itself in order to shorten the assembly enough to make it easier to get lined up and bolted into position. It can't possibly be as difficult as I have made it to be. Can someone please help?

It ran perfect this morning until I tried to show the OL how to disconnect the battery if it does it again and sure enough them lights started blinking again. As I should have done from the beginning, I traced the "clicking relay sound" to the "Keyless Entry Control Unit". I unplugged the smaller of the 2 plugs going into the unit with no effect. I unplugged the big connector and the clicking sound stopped and the blinking lights quit blinking. I drove it for a bit and all systems are nominal. Hopefully what I did disables only the security system but I won't know till I drive it awhile or a member tells me I done good. I got home after my test drive and I'll be danged if them parking lights weren't on. But, they weren't blinking. I went straight to the virgin switch and turned it off. I am now at the hospital receiving emergency care for the 2 broken arms incurred in self-congratulation... Thanks to all

I had to look up the "virgin switch". Hilarious, but not the problem. Turning on this switch makes them stop blinking and stay on, like it's supposed to do. I think it had to do with trying to set/unset the alarm with a door sensor showing an open door. I unhooked the battery and turned the key to on overnight. I just hooked it back up and everything is good. I'm gonna say the "Amateur Subaru Repairman's Serenity Prayer ", then start it and see what happens.

1995. I hot-wired the driver-side fan and it worked. I plugged it back in and started the car and it works. Thinking I should do the same to other fan just for grins. So, at least for the moment, I think the overheating issue may be under control. We'll see. Now the only big issue (I think) is the parking lights blinking with everything turned off and the key removed. I can here something clicking in the area of the fuse box but couldn't exactly pin it down. I think it's tied to the security system but don't know. I tried undoing the battery and letting it sit. I tried locking and unlocking the doors from both outside and inside. I saw one post where if you used the fob (which I have but battery dead) you might could do some good. Your thoughts?

Like the chap above, I joined the forum because I'm give out on answers... The machine overheats at idle or in traffic is the problem. Neither radiator fan seems to ever run. Put a new oem thermostat in today and no change. Have not direct-wired the fans to see if they work but feel sure they will. The 2 x 20 amp fuses (1 inside, 1 under hood) are good. A cursory check of the relays with a vom shows good. I'm not dropping any water, and there seems to be circulation through the system. Additionally I should say the parking lights are blinking intermittent with the machine turned off. I think this is tied to the security system but am again unsure. What am I missing?