Dynapar

Here are some pictures of Fishbiker15's 1987 GL Hatch. Pretty sure it is way muddier than anything posted yet.

replaced the fuel filter tonight. I got the wrong part it looks similiar but doesnt have the top (overflow?) piece. so i stuck it in anyway and bypassed the overflow thing. the verdict is.... IT WORKS! good call. I was able to get it up to 60mph before running into some accleration issues. I also tossed in some NGK7Es which I had laying around from when i turboed my impreza. the plugs have a different number than the NGKs that i took out of the EA81. but they are the same size and thread. w/ a different nut size. put them in and they fit. took off the distributor cap and cleaned up the points. thing roars like a lion know. As soon as i fix this exhuast leak at the manifold it is ready for the street. thanks for all the help!

Thanks for that info. when i get a chance i will take a look for it.

^wait there are 2 fuel filters on the brats? where is the second one located?

I took off the fuel filter yesterday and backflushed it alittle. the stuff that came out of there was really disgusting. i must have forced 10lbs of rust into that little filter. I am no longer surporzed that it didnt run right. I ordered a new filter from the dealership and it will be here on thursday. so with some luck i will have it roaring for the weekend. thanks again. i will keep you posted.

thanks for the info. I will try replacing the filter, and pump too see if it clears up the issue.

Hey, I just got my brat (84) back on the road, well kinda. I am having a strange issue which is keeping me from driving it. When I take it on the road and start driving it starts sturrering REALLY bad. like it is getting fuel cut or something. Its hard to explain the issue. but driving in 2nd gear it happen around 4k rpms, and in 3rd gear it will keep me below 3k rpms. It feels like it is going to die on me but it doesnt. the thing i dont get is that if i am driving in a parking lot i can hit 5k rpms in the gears with out a problem. its just when i get on teh road. its the strangest thing. I have a 1/2 tank of new gas in there, so it isnt a gas issue. I removed that wierd box from teh back passenger side that is connected to the gas tank, could this be an issue? i am not sure what that box does (didnt seem to important)

Arg... School has started so I have very little time to work on the brat anymore. I am with chux, that the reverse gear isnt borked. The issue must lie in the linkage. When I get time i think i am going to remove the supposed linkage fix and put a larger bolt through the whole assembly I am also thinking of securing the base of the shifter to the tranny w/ some instant bushing maker. the OEM bushing that goes on the very bottom of the shift lever is junk, and I cannot get the new one to seat properly. This reverse issue is the only thing holding my brat off the road. I already have it insured and everything. GAH!!!!!!

Hey all, I have a 84 Brat with a 4spd MT. When I first go it, I had no issues shifting the gears. However now that I have let it sit for half a year on jackstands and done some misc work on it, it will not shift into reverse. I can push it as far as possible to the right (to the point of rubbing on the tranny housing, and 4wd linkage) and pull back and it will still be 4th gear. I can find 1 -> 4 no problem, but there is no reverse at all. I re-did the shifter bushings with new factory ones, and also replaced the roll pin with the reccommended bolt/compression fitting fix. I had Chux take a look at it, and we are thinking that repalcing the roll pin was a bad idea. Has anyone experienced anything like this before?

I went to the dealer and got new bushings for where the shift lever connects to the shift linkage and also the little divot bushing. I also got the 1/4" bolt fix for the linkage. well it just figures that i didnt know there was a roll pin holding the linkage together, so after drilling that out (stupid roll pin) i used the 1/4" blt and the pressure fittings. i installed all the bushings. i cannot for the life of me get that little divot buching to stay on the shifter. i may have to resort to putting a bushing on the hourglass part. after all this, i can feel the shift point better. but when it is in gear you can tell. the shifter flops all over, and when shifting i find i am punching the radio for 1st and 3rd and hitting the 4wd lever when shifting 2nd, 4th and hitting the passenger when i shift R. i belice the issue lies where the linkage enters the tranny. i think this is what someone menioned about. i will need to look further at this connection and see what there for bushings.

i have replaced about 7 of my lug stud on my impreza (stupid impact....) anyway i pulled the rotor off, and the hub cover. then i loosened up the wheel speed sensor, and i was able to pound out the lug studs w/ teh hub still on teh car. had to be careful not to break the wheel speed sensor, but it worked fine. after some finangling i got the old stud to drop out from behind the plate they are pressed into. put the new one in, used a lug nut w/ a ton of washers to tq it back in. works perfectly.

Basically it has already been said. disconnect the neg batery cable and hold the brakes for a min or so. after that you should be good to go. i have had to do this numerous times i dont think the 45 min wait is neccessary. i have found that the $100 OBD-II code reader is a good investement. i use mine several times a month.

^ I am not sure about the Chan area. but do what tcat said join up on MNSubaru.com. you can get the 20% off parts and 10% off labor at the minnetonak dealership too. good guys there, esp. Ben and Brian.

I have been thinking about doing a full NA build on my EJ22 once i pull it out. iam currently working on building up a EJ22T for a turbo motor to throw in my Impreza. I have already made a functional and somewhat cheap turbo kit for the ej22. there is a lot of power to be had out of the NA phase 1 2.2l i put down 113whp/143wtq 2 8:1 AFR on a dynodynamics w/ a 4eat. this was UBER rich and after leaning it out a little still no where near perfect i bet i was close to 130whp/160wtq. w/ this power i was roughyl equivilant to a stock WRX. In thoery had i had everythign working right and w/ a 5spd i should have broken 200whp. but nothing ever works right for me. FYI: Kit was ~$2100 for everything turbo, wideband 02, engine management, everything.... for the NA build, it is much harder to get power. i know there are a few places out there who offer higher compression pistons for the EJ22. i saw one place offering 10.5:1 and i think i saw one place with 11:1 CR. shaving the heads is a viable option but i have a feeling that to shave enough o gain any real CR it will take alot of shaving. going with the standard headers, intake, exhaust you get decent power through in some delta reground cams and you have a respectable amount of power for NA. the real good stuff comes when you start doing crazy things. the 2006 intake manifold is supposed to flow gobs more than any other. they used it on the ZZYZX 2.5 (300 NA crank hp). when you look at heads teh phase 1 and phase 2 heads are a mixed bag. the phase 1 heads have teh dual port exhuast. the phase 2 heads offer large valves but singel port exhuast. so they are both rather restrictive. also about the 02 sensors. when i was running turbo i only had my wideband installed. i wired it into the ecu, and the ecu ran happily. as a matter of fact right now (i am NA again) i am running only the front 02 sensor and have removed the second cat (melted down). car runs fine w/ only the front 02 sensor doesnte ven give me a CEL. and i am OBD-II there are oodles that can be done to this things. the stuff i mentioned is just for starters.

Bump from the dead! The shifter in my brat is insanely sloppy. its so bad you cant tell if your in N or in gear! i have heard that the 4spd linkage is notorious for this. i was wondering if it is possible to swap in a different subaru linkage, which is newer/easier to find parts for. I am not sure what the 4spd linkage looks like but has anyone tried using a EJ linkage (5spd or 6spd)? i gotta fix this... this is my first manual car and i have a horrid feeling i will blow it up because of this lol.

hey, have you guys called subie heaven yet. i know the # is posted somewhere on MNsubaru.com they seem to have tons of pre 90s subies. althought they do still have a decent amount of early 90s legacies. i kow they have one svx. but no imprezas. they have OEM parts in boxes too. i know tehy have the OEM plow package for the GL [cough]chux[/cough]

this was an interesting read. i am interested in how the 300zx NA injectors flow. i was lucky enough to find a 300zx turbo (single, not TT) at a junkyard. due to limitied time, and 1 10mm wrench i was only able to get 4 of the 6 injectors out of the car. but i have tried searching google and other places to find out what these flow. supposedly the 300zx turbo was a very rare car. had specail features like mirrored t tops, and speakers in the seats. if they flow more than legacy turbo injectors (they should) 360cc/min. then i have a use for em. but i have no clue what they flow. they are top feed, brown top. read a46-00 on the side.