89XT6

Lol, I'd have to learn Morse Code to read the trouble codes. I have original repair manuals but I don't want to fiddle with the main harness at the ECU yet. The IACV pigtail is definitely part of the problem, 12.2V at pin 2, but no voltage or OHM readings on pins 1 or 3. I didn't check voltage at the CTS pigtail when hot but will do. The CTS pigtail is new but I'll try to get 5V out of it. I'll check an auto parts or electrical supply store for new pin connectors for the IACV, they look unique but nothing I can't fix there. The plastic housing is also unique, hopefully I can find a suitable replacement or just reuse the original. A pinched hose is possible, the input hose is new but it's just a straight generic hose making a pretty tight turn, Subaru didn't have one. I'll keep this in mind when everything else is done. I'll clean the IACV good, with intake cleaner when I put everything together again. I should have results by next weekend, thanks for your help.

Thanks for the info, this is what I found this morning... Key on, 3.2v at the CTS pigtail, 3.2k ohms at the CTS. Starts up with normal idle, warms up and maintains 750 RPMs. After letting it get hot, the fan cycles and the engine stays at perfect temperature. Now I see 0.23k ohms at the CTS when it's hot. I notice a hum coming from the IACV with the key on, engine not started. I disconnected the pigtail at the IACV and gave it a hot restart. The idle goes up to 1,250 RPMs when in park, down to 750 RPMs in gear, but it runs rough with the check engine light on, can this be a vacuum leak? I noticed that the IACV pigtail is a bit of a mess, I'm going to order a new one along with a new CTS and see what happens after cleaning the IACV again. Would a little bit of WD40 help the IACV work better? If this doesn't work, I'll have to splurge for a new IACV. Rockauto, or Subaru? I know the harnesses on these cars cause problems, I have solder sleeves and tape ready to go. I found a few testing procedures to follow. Any more advise is appreciated.

Spring is here and I'm tinkering with my 1989 XT6. It sat in the garage for the winter, with a trickle charger and a weekly startup. I recently did a complete reseal of the H6, timing belts, water and oil pump, etc. It runs like a top, starting right up and idling perfectly after a cold start. I let it warm up to the point the fan kicks in, cycling the cooling system. When I shut it down and restart it hot, the idle RPMs shoot up to 1,500 or so and stays there, something is convincing the ECU to do this I guess. I cleaned the IACV, MAF, throttle linkage and all the wiring to them. I get 3.2 volts at the CTS wiring plug (I replaced the original with an injector harness). The CTS seems bad, it's 30 years old! I read an open circuit between the two conductors, tested when warm and then hot. I will check again when cold and hot, but an open is bad when it's hot and should be talking to the ECU. I'll try a new CTS first, they're not expensive. Questions... Should I get a $15 aftermarket CTS, or the good old NOS Subaru CTS for $40? The original lasted 30 years, so I'm leaning towards NOS Subaru. Any other suggestions on this issue? I can drive the car all day after a cold start, idling at a stop around 750 RPMs but if I shut it down and restart it hot after a few minutes, the idle zips up to 1,500 and is reluctant to settle down. I could check for vacuum leaks, but figured if this caused the high idle, it would occur even with a cold start.

Here's my 1989 XT6. Running strong with 162k miles.

No air suspension, this one is FWD. There's only 162K miles on this car, the original struts are fine.

It's been a while since I posted anything. I recently did a complete reseal on my 1989 XT6, 2.7L H6. Look it up if you are doing the same, lots of good advice from members, with part numbers, pictures and some highly expected HLA issues. Everything is great, no clatter, no leaks, no smoke, no problems! All I need to do is recharge the updated R13 ac unit for the hot summer I'm predicting. I put a brand new set of 17" wheels from a 2012 Forester, 5x100, +48 ($400 for all 4, shipped) with Riken summer tires, 215 40s ($200 for all 4, shipped). Perfect fittment, highly recommended size combo. The ride is fine, no real difference from the original wheels and all seasons, probably because the front struts are original Subaru! The Forester wheels are heavier of course, so the car actually feels more stable and planted. Don't worry Subaru purists, the original salad cutter alloys are tucked away in the garage...

Good to go! The reseal of my 1989 XT6 2.7L H6 is complete and Slater is running strong, with zero leaks. like a scorched cat off the line the tires chirp and spin. The auto tranny hits second gear hard, I might be able to get second gear to chirp if I hit it right. the throttle linkage is sorted out to where it should be. Timing is advanced just a bit above baseline, it idles around 800 rpm. Sunoco 93 is the best fuel for this engine. The ac system is good now. After changing out the o rings and recharging, it turns on and the ac cooling fan turns on with it. It was defaulted by the ecu to turn on with the main cooling fan when the ac compressor wasn't working. Thanks again for all the help. I have a couple of months before salted roads force Slater into the garage. With temperatures in the mid seventies today, who knows when hibernation time arrives!

Almost done... There was a vacuum leak, not sure where, but that, one bad hose and one loose clamp are taken care of. The throttle cables have been adjusted, one of them seemed loose. Both now have proper tension on them. For anyone interested, one is for the actual linkage to the gas pedal, the other is operated with the cruise control circuit. Timing was advanced a bit, probably to where it should be above baseline, plus a tweak up. I'm allowing the mechanic to test drive it for as long as it takes to get perfect, and I think timing is good now. Slater now scorches the front tires off the line !!! Yeah, FWD does this with the 2.7 Subiebeast. Good torque to hp ratio is key. As far as the AC, they recharged the system and did the blue ink test stuff. The AC cooling fan still works only with the main cooling fan. I pointed out the relays on the passenger firewall, specifically the AC fan relay that I recently replaced. How are these fans working only as one right now? It's not a big deal but they worked perfectly before. The Main fan worked with the coolant temperature sensor and the AC fan would go on only when the AC was on. Any ideas? I'll give the mechanic one more week to sort everything out, then I take Slater home for good. There should still be 2 months of driving fun to have, before the salt trucks ruin the roads.

Maybe the EA81 was swapped out for an EA82, for increased power and reliability of course! Surfer should peak under the front covers to verify belts or gears. An E82 would be easier to get parts for. I found everything Subaru OEM, NOS for my 2.7 reseal, except for water pump, head gaskets and the no longer available idler pulleys. Has anyone ever tried to use a 2.7 oil pump on a 1.8? If they have the same hardware attachments, the only difference is more volume, different hoses and the curious extra seal on the 1.8 version, not a bad thing. I have my XT6 back at the mechanic. The mechanic drove me back to my place and floored it... like a slug taking forever to shift, he thinks the timing needs to be reset. When first setting it, he followed the service manual, but thinks he should advance it a bit to compensate for new belts, tensioners etc. I like timing advanced just a tick, using 93 octane on a motor that needs the boosted fuel anyway. Since the ECU probably put timing back to base, we will turn it up a bit. He will check other things also, throttle cable/linkage, vacuum...

Dealer websites seem to start with the 1985 1.8 EA82. Check to see which 1.8 you have, EA81, EA82...or ? I'm no expert, but if the previous owner says it has belts, good chance it does. Here's an idea... take the front cover off and you'll see for yourself. Check Ebay, it's the last resort for these relics. I found the ad attached on my post here. Best thing to do for a quick answer is to start your own new post with a specific title, like "1983 1.8 timing belts or gears?" Good luck, look for a free factory service manual download, be patient and have fun! Set of Rear & Front Engine Crankshaft Seal & Timing Belts fits Subaru Brat DL GL _ eBay.html

I'll check everything you guys suggest, but here is a big clue for you... When idling in park, it's at about 750 RPM, should be higher. When I put it into any gear... no change, still around 750 RPM. Timing retarded? I changed the CTS connector with a quality aftermarket fuel injector pigtail and the IAC worked fine before, didn't clean it though. A vacuum leak is also a possibility. The mechanic didn't put the AC back correctly, the clutch doesn't turn on, maybe he never recharged it. Also, the AC cooling fan cycles along with the passenger side fan. They should be independent of each other. So, we have a possible vacuum, timing or electrical issue I guess, Jeebus only knows what they may have messed up, but its not rocket science, I'll bring the car back to them next week. It's like most contractor work, you have them in your house for months and towards the end of the project, your at each others throats and the final details get screwed up. I'll post more as soon as we figure things out, probably won't drive the car too much, don't want to stress anything.

Yeah, I thought it may have been just a misaligned new seal at first, we did change both pump seals. At that point I wanted to eliminate any doubt and put a new pump in. My TOD was only on the passenger side, pretty much ruling out air bubbles... who knows, who cares, as long as it's quiet. After driving for a few days... no leaks!!! Something needs to be sorted out though. Slater feels sluggish, hesitates from a stop and the automatic transmission will not downshift easily going uphill. Although there are no leaks, I smell oil, maybe transmission fluid is low and it's running hot, or residual oils burning off from the reseal. The tranny/power steering hoses that run to the transmission cooler were disconnected for a while, maybe enough fluid leaked out and I need to add? Is that even a transmission cooler, or just a quirky Subaru electric PS cooler? I can read the FSM and I have plenty of the special PS fluid. The motor is fine, idles smoothly, when I downshift and gas it, it goes strong, but it seems as if the transmission is holding back. I'll fill the gas tank with Sunoco 93 and top off the fluids. I guess it could also be a vacuum or linkage issue wth the transmission, which like all else, was fine before the reseal. Before the reseal it was quick off the line, spinning the tires and shifting firmly into second. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Success! The NOS Subaru oil pump did the trick. The original pump still showed decent pressure, however, new is new and it definitely is the cure for TOD. We had the cam case and head apart and installed a new head gasket, cam case o rings and HLAs. Not to mention, I lost count of how many cans of brake cleaner we used and following the service manual, word for word. As expected, the HLAs ticked for a while at first, but I was fed up, so I got behind the wheel and took Slater for a drive, a spirited drive on the highway. Within minutes things got quiet, to the point where it should The 2.7 sounds like it should, like a whispering old typewriter. I should fill the gas tank with Sunoco 93 and drive it every day and I have to go over everything under the hood, there are most likely a few bolts missing here and there! Thanks to idosubaru and other long time members here, for sharing your knowledge. This little coupe will be around for quite a while, making it one of very few left in original condition. Next Spring I may have some touch ups done on the body. Other than the easily replaced thin strip of metal under the rear bumper, there is no rust to speak of, I will park it at the first sign of salt on these Northeast roads. To the moderators that may have followed this thread, it may be a good idea to pin this little adventure.

NOS OEM oil pump on its way. Still not 100% sure it's the actual one I need, until it's in my hands. One way to know for sure is to match up the mickey mouse gasket, since the 1.8L is different. We will see soon enough. From what I can tell, it's the 1.8L oil pump that is no longer available. The mechanic will replace the o ring, gasket and the pickup! Fingers crossed. This parts dealer can be found on eBay, as Northcoastsubaru, out of Glen Cove, NY. They claim to be able to get many old and rare Subaru parts, from Japan if need be.

New HLAs primed and installed. Ran the thing up and down around 2,000 rpm for more than an hour. Still making noise. We took the head off to look for something obvious. The gasket seemed to be on correctly, but they had to order a new one at this point anyway. I told them to order two, just in case. I test drove my poor noisy Slater, ran fine, smooth and even as before the reseal. I don't think there is an issue inside the heads or block. Taking Mr. idosubaru's suggestion, I ordered a brand new Subaru OEM oil pump, part #15010AA087. Yes, there are a few left , grab one if you plan on a reseal. The old pump could be... old. We get good pressure readings with an external gauge, but a new pump can't hurt anything except my wallet ($225). The master mechanic at the nearby Subaru dealer will offer his help. He'll know right away what is making the noise, and point to other possible causes that we may be overlooking. I guess we'll find out if it's something deeper, like a bad valve or other internal thing. As I mentioned, the engine is smooth and has good pickup, no flat spots, just the noise that I refuse to accept. We're thinking it might be a good idea to have the head milled and it may also be time for some seafoam treatment, clean this beotch out. Carry on!!!

Well, that was quick! I ordered these Friday. I guess in CA, they understand when a NY'er says "Please send asap". I ordered a set of o rings for the cam case, should have them by Wednesday, then I will spoon feed the mechanic and shop owner with what they need to do to get this right. BTW... Made in USA!

Ok, thanks GLoyale. Looking at my receipts, I only ordered 2 13089AA000 o rings, but need 4. I was thinking the same thing, how can you manage to put a head gasket on wrong? There is one small round passage on the head gasket that has rubber around it... oil passage. I'll have to keep a close eye on them to make sure we have all the new HLAs, and o rings on the cam case and they clean all of the oil passages with a pipe cleaner or something. They used plenty of brake cleaner, scrapping and compressed air, but something could still be blocking somewhere. I'm not too worried about much else, since this thing ran nice and quiet before the reseal. There's just one simple little gremlin here. I expect to have the parts late this week and the shop will be back at it next week. I'll keep you guys posted.

I can't get to the car for pictures today, but I pasted pictures from a Subaru parts website, in the post above^^^. I originally ordered 2 of each type, because that is what I see on the camshaft and timing belt diagram: The big oval one, 13090AA000 The small one with the metal clip, 13089AA000 The small one with no clip, 13089AA010 I remember seeing the old ones from one of the cam cases, all gunked up with red or orange RTV. We changed all 4 of those. The other side looked good, no RTV at all, so we just changed the oval one, the round flat one with no clip and cleaned the two round clipped ones, because at the time we only had one of each for each cam case. This 2.7 was already resealed once and the two used o rings on this one side looked good enough to just clean and put back. The owner of the shop is also suspicious of the new head gasket blocking an oil passage, causing intermittent low oil pressure to the HLAs. I'll allow him to run with his theory, he's a pro. He ordered a new one and will most likely just install it, since the head probably has to come off anyway. I can order 2 more 13089AA000 tomorrow and bring them along with the new Mellings HLAs later this week. I'll mention the oil pump to the shop. The mechanic doing the work rebuilt many Subaru engines when he worked at a dealership, but I think he's way too young to have the experience needed for this old dog 2.7.

I agree, most mechanics are not willing to even touch this 2.7, so we should give some credit to anyone willing to tackle this. My mechanic worked for a Subaru dealer and is getting advise from the lead mechanic at the dealership (25+ years experienced old timer). Of course we will change all of the o rings, I'm just curious as to why these things are supposedly to blame for HLA TOD. With your different opinions, all I can think is that they block an oil passage, causing a drop in oil pressure if old or not aligned perfectly. I have an extra large oval o ring with the clip and can get more small rounds with clips. There are also small rounds without a clip. They are all metal reinforced, and all available Subaru NOS. Again, the Subaru diagrams are not so good, showing only one of each on the cam case, causing major confusion until you open up a cam case and find more. Scouring the web hasn't led to a definite 100% clear and complete reseal guide (every gasket, o ring seal etc. and how many of each are needed), just some really good info, opinions and suggestions from idosubaru and other experienced members. This is why most of us don't get everything right the first time! As far as diagnosis, with intermittent TOD on only the passenger side, it's safe to say the problem is a blocked oil passage somewhere on that side, causing low oil pressure at the HLAs. It could be a misaligned head gasket (according to the mechanic), more o rings needed (thanks again to vague Subaru website diagrams), a piece of old RTV hiding in a passage. idk, anything else? At first we tried changing the one really bad HLA, but I had a feeling it was something else already, just went with their advise. I then ordered 5 more to complete the whole set. New HLAs are not the answer, they're a symptom, but they will eliminate any doubt. If the new ones clack for longer than expected before they prime, we dig into the cam case. The oil pump is fine, new seal, mm gasket, good pressure readings and the driver side HLAs are quiet. We'll get it right, I promise! We'll replace every HLA, cam case o ring, the head gasket, check and clean all passages, pressure springs, etc. I'm confident, patient and full of OCD, so I will not settle for anything less than a quiet 2.7, since that is what I had before the reseal. It's not rocket science, just a rare project with some trial and error due to a lack of 100% complete direction. You guys are great, I appreciate your patience and everything you help me with. I'm sure you want this project done successfully, as do I, and some of you probably want to push me out of the way and fix it yourself, or swap in an EJ. So, grab some popcorn Continue to answer and remain patient with my obvious rookie dead horse posts Soon we will win, it's just a mechanical unicorn. Humans always win in the end.

Which one of the 3 different cam case O rings feeds the HLAs? The big oval one, 13090AA000 The small one with the metal clip, 13089AA000 or the small one with no clip, 13089AA010 I have an extra big oval one, but would have to order the smaller ones Thanks in advance

I used a Subaru OEM O-ring in the cam case and Nippon Reinz head gaskets, Japanese manufacturing. But that doesn't mean much if the mechanic either forgot to use the O-ring or didn't get the gasket on perfectly. I'll stop at the shop today and give them fair warning, my wallet is getting thin and I won't pay for their mistakes.

While waiting for the HLAs to arrive, I'm trying to wrap my brain around why only the passenger side HLAs are complaining I have a few common sense (rookie) questions... - If the clacking HLAs are on the passenger side only and the driver side is perfectly quiet, can I assume that the oil pump is fine? We primed the pump before startup and tested oil pressure externally, getting normal readings at various temps. - Is it possible that during the reseal, with the engine on it's passenger side while changing the head gasket and such, the oil found its way out of the HLAs and they are not priming because they are tired and spongy? -The mickey mouse gasket was a bit tricky for the pros to install. Do each of the ports that the "ears" seal feed oil to separate sides, driver and passenger? If so, this may point to more air getting to the passenger side HLAs, which may very well be the issue since they all feel spongy and don't seem to want to prime themselves. Air in the system is all that makes sense to me right now. I plan on the usual recommended tasks, placing the HLAs in a bag filled with thin oil for a day, priming them by hand and idling between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm for as long as it takes to drink a Red Bull and say some prayers... 20 minutes or more. This 2.7 was very quiet before the reseal, once in a blue moon an HLA would clack for 2 seconds, then disappear into the usual sewing machine banter. If the clacking is still there after installing 6 new HLAs, 20-60 minutes of idling and/or a good long drive at 55 mph, I will most likely just take Slater home and see if daily driving with an occasional heavy foot can clear this up. -Would my next step be to check the new minkey mouse gasket?

Still clacking on the passenger side after changing the suspect HLA. Mizpah needs my cores to rebuild, they have none available in stock. I ordered 6 brand new Mellings lifters from a reputable dealer in CA. We should have them by next Friday. Why are all of these XT parts concentrated on the west coast?

I found your old HLA TOD thread, very nice. So, I'll wait 10-20 minutes for the TOD to stop, hopefully she quiets down sooner. I'll contact Mizpah if I need more.