scubasteveo45

the picture of that thing is definatley going into my "WTF!?" file on my laptop

my remans from auto zone havent given me any problems, they were only 60 after core return, lifetime waranty, figure its not a bad deal

I was walking down the street here at Oregon State and had to do a double take when i saw an fairly straight, good shape RX, does this belong to anyone on the board by some random chance? Am I the only lonely corvallis resident on the board? I'm gonna go back and leave a note on the windshield, see if theyd be willing to part with her...

on my loyale i cant get the spindle end of the axle to come back through the hub, the spacer in between the wheel bearings keeps moving around and appears to be restricting my pushing it in, i tried to pack some grease in there to hold it in place but the bugger keeps moving. Edrach's instructions say to put this end in first, but i was wondering if i could connect the DOJ first and then get the spindle end in as far as i can into the hub and use force against the hub with a hammer or something to get the axle to a point i can get the nut on ? suggestions? please dont tell me my wheel bearings are messed up, i dont need more to worry about...

You think you could make it to oregon tonite?, ive got a couple that need that touch...

Kroil is really good. We use it at the aircraft repair hangar I work at. The stuff is able to break apart 20 year old landing gear fixtures that get 3800 pounds of aircaft slammed down on them at 100 mph thousands of times over. We just let the parts soak in a big trough of the stuff.

that makes sense, just didnt see that clip under all the gunk collected on the contents of the wheelwell, thanks

problem solved, thanks guys

im in the middle of my axle swap, and got the old axle out, but was able to get it out because the outboard CV wasnt even atached to the rest of the axle... so it came out in two peices, maybe a little too much fun offroad . Anyway, I think the only thing restricting me from getting the new one in is the parking brake cable. What do I do to get this off and not throw everything out of whack, in a little detail if possible?

I know this subject get bludgeond to death, and the answers probably lie somewhere in a past post, but I am coming down with the flu, can hardly stand up, and took 5 advil 10 minutes ago, so searching for the right answer in old posts isnt gonna happen. So today I got halfway through an axle swap before i couldn't stand it anymore. I got the nut off, and the pin out, and couldnt get the ball joint on the lower control arm to budge, sat there with a prybar for about 30 minutes harping on the thing before i gave up. I had taken out the pinch bolt and undid the stabalizer bar, tried my best to pry apart the part the pinch bolt was in. Can someone describe what I need to do to get the ball out, or one of your alternative methods. Still a novice subaru mechanic and any help would be great. Again sorry to the moderators for asking about such a talked about topic.

even if one is a good inch longer than the other? I wasnt thinking when i said one is slightly bigger than the other, an inch difference on something supposed to be symetrical seems too much.

i looked at partsbin.com too, it would have ended up costing 84 dollars more.

HA, I walked away from my computer and grab the two axles out of curiosity, hold them up to each other and they are completley different, one is slightly bigger than the other. It just figures, and then I get on to report this and of course grossgary's post says just that...my luck. Was really lookin forward to gettin her back on the road, now i get to deal with customer service, exactly what I needed. generally i wouldnt get refunded the 25 bucks i shelled out for shipping right? that blows, and i probably get to spend 25 more on shipping them back. damn.

Got my axles in today for my loyale from rockauto.com, and without fail it didnt come with all the right hardware. So i'm down one axle nut, no cotter pins, luckily they remembered the spring pins. This car has to be back on the road by sunday. Can I get the nut at my local napa or autozone? would re-using one be unsafe? Do I need to replace the washer as well, or can I reuse those? Guess this is what I get for not checking the board for a reliable parts site first.

i put 6'' in the front of mine, had to do some heavy cutting, they look good, probably to thieves as well, so probably wouldnt recommend them

out of curiosity, what seperates a GL from a GL-10, theres one for sale with a bad tranny here, doesnt specify that its a GL-10 turbo, so I was wondering what makes a non turbo GL-10 and a GL different?

dark blue with the light blue interior looks really good

I need to find myself a Zentralverriegelung for my wagons, I think my other Zentralverriegelung fell out

thanks guys, and sorry about the re-posting, i'll look around before i ask next time

the haynes manual says you have to remove the steering knuckle and axle as one piece and get them hydraulically seperated and re-pressed together. Ive heard differentely, its a 92 loyale, whats the real story?

My reman. axles are on there way to my house and I'm antsy to get behind the wheel of my #2 sube again, and I was wondering what else should I be replacing as I swap out the bad ones and put in the good. I noticed in one of the other threads someone said something about replacing the spring pins, was wondering if that was neccesary or if I'd get new ones with the fresh axles. What about the axle nut, get a new one as well? and I guess while on topic what special tools should I accumulate before this operation, this is my first time pulling the axles and am just trying to take the neccesary precautions. It's a 92 Loyale 4WD M/T if it makes a difference.

My 86 EA81 wagon has been running poorly, very poorly. About the end of the summer is when it got really bad, and I ended up parking it and taking my 92 wagon to college instead. First off, the car stutters sometimes when i let out the clutch and give it gas, it just hesitates for a second and then accelerates. I assume this is bad fuel filters or fouled plugs or something. It's done that for a while and never really compromised the performance as far as I could tell. Then just before I left for school, the car would kind of go into fits of shuddering. The engine just runs really rough and kind of feels like it's about to die or something. Nothing traumatic happened to bring this on, it just sort of developed gradually. I'm making the assumption its something to do with my fuel system, its carbureted, so I see potential for the problem being there. I don't get many opportunies to work on it, only if I happen to go home for the weekend. Anyone know whats going on/had this happen to them as well. I can't let this baby die, parents bought it off the lot brand spankin new in 86' and i've had her for about 3 years and it has too much sentimental value. Help would be appriciated.

thanks

Don't hate me for asking this question, i'm just a naive newbie, but what car do you guys find the EA82T engines out of? I have myself an 86' GL wagon with FWD and was also wondering if outfitting it with this engine is possible/ or worth it... thanks

i was wondering if it is possible to outfit a SVX with a manual transmission, or if it's even worth it? I've been contemplating buying one, but am still a younger guy and don't want to be stuck with a boring old auto tranny. Is the SVX really even worth buying, the extra two cylinders sound appealing to me but have never heard great things about it. Is it worth the cash, or should I spend the $5000 on three or four more wagons, can't go wrong with them...thanks