HattoriHanzo

That sucks but at least they didn't waste the dash trying to rip out your deck, I have a 87 GL door glass also if you still need one, I'm in Washington though, but it's cheap, Hattori.

Right on! I love the EA81 engine, it is highly durable, with careful building and tuning this should be quite possible, I would also reccommend balancing the engine, smooth power and a few more rpm's, keep us posted!!

You'll be better off with a whole set of OEM gaskets, they're far superior to most I've found, ecspecially intake and exhaust, I don't have an opinion on the other stuff, as i don't know what they sell in your area, my supplier carries BeckArnley, and I have had good luck with them, and find the products of good quality.

TriFlow is an excellent lubricant for locks, its a SherwinWilliams product, downside-expensive, it fixed mine though...

4x140mm, Pugeuot uses the same pattern, and thats about it, Welcome!!

I have gotten several on eBay for 10-15 bucks shipped, you might also try pawn shops, as these are somewhat specialized tools they don't move too fast, I bought a nice HewlettPackard oscilloscope for $40 at a pawn shop, it was several thousand dollars new, Fluke and Simpson, are my faves, but the most expensive, but I got a nice older Fluke on eBAy for $18!! The older Micronata stuff sold by Radio Shack are pretty good too

LEDs(light emitting dioides) are more costly but should last indefinately, at least 50000-100000 hours typical, probably draw less than an amp, I found mine a little weak also, so I'm gonna replace it with one out of a semi that uses a 1156 bulb, looks nice too, they sell em at Car Quest, you might just try cleaning the contacts at the door switches as these will cause weak output, or you could just remove the lens, a larger bulb can and will melt the lens-but the lite would have to be on for quite awhile.

I've used Mobil oil products for a long time, and have always been pleased with them, I use synthetics in everything-love 'em, I don't see a problem.

Ok, cool, now you know the motor is probably not the problem, you're gonna have to trace the wiring to the switch, and check the switch and resistor pack and look for the short, you can run a hot wire direct to the motor in the meantime if you need the heater, crude, but better than nothing.

It's just 3-4 10mm bolts that hold the motor in and a little plug for the wires, there is a little hose that cools the motor, you don't need to mess with any of the other stuff just gently move it out of the way if neccessary.

As long as the gauge seems to function throughout it's travel, it is most likely the sender(and easier to fix too), most gauge malfunctions I have came across have been senders or wiring related.

Try removing the motor-make sure it hasn't seized up, in your model the blower motor is behind the plastic panel under the glove box, just pull it off gently, the motor should turn freely with no binding, if the motor is fine you are going to need to trace the heater wiring and look for a short or burned wires in the harness-good luck, Hattori...

Oh yeah, I never even thought of that, RHD is availiable as an option in the US, but there are very few of them rural newspaper and mail carriers swear by them though, but I have only seen a few of them, I would love to have one though!!

Carbon bildup on the piston tops could be effectively raising your compression ratio, causing your car to ping rven when timed properly, you might try using SeaFoam or DeepCreep (availiable at Napa), this works very well for removing carbon deposits, and cleaning the fuel system in general.

I meant too short, my auto tranny speedo cable was way to short as the speedometer drive for the 3AT is on the top of the tranny, perhaps yours had already been replaced with a manual cable before you switched, was there slack in the cable when you pulled the auto?