HattoriHanzo

That sucks but at least they didn't waste the dash trying to rip out your deck, I have a 87 GL door glass also if you still need one, I'm in Washington though, but it's cheap, Hattori.

Right on! I love the EA81 engine, it is highly durable, with careful building and tuning this should be quite possible, I would also reccommend balancing the engine, smooth power and a few more rpm's, keep us posted!!

You'll be better off with a whole set of OEM gaskets, they're far superior to most I've found, ecspecially intake and exhaust, I don't have an opinion on the other stuff, as i don't know what they sell in your area, my supplier carries BeckArnley, and I have had good luck with them, and find the products of good quality.

TriFlow is an excellent lubricant for locks, its a SherwinWilliams product, downside-expensive, it fixed mine though...

4x140mm, Pugeuot uses the same pattern, and thats about it, Welcome!!

I have gotten several on eBay for 10-15 bucks shipped, you might also try pawn shops, as these are somewhat specialized tools they don't move too fast, I bought a nice HewlettPackard oscilloscope for $40 at a pawn shop, it was several thousand dollars new, Fluke and Simpson, are my faves, but the most expensive, but I got a nice older Fluke on eBAy for $18!! The older Micronata stuff sold by Radio Shack are pretty good too

LEDs(light emitting dioides) are more costly but should last indefinately, at least 50000-100000 hours typical, probably draw less than an amp, I found mine a little weak also, so I'm gonna replace it with one out of a semi that uses a 1156 bulb, looks nice too, they sell em at Car Quest, you might just try cleaning the contacts at the door switches as these will cause weak output, or you could just remove the lens, a larger bulb can and will melt the lens-but the lite would have to be on for quite awhile.

I've used Mobil oil products for a long time, and have always been pleased with them, I use synthetics in everything-love 'em, I don't see a problem.

Ok, cool, now you know the motor is probably not the problem, you're gonna have to trace the wiring to the switch, and check the switch and resistor pack and look for the short, you can run a hot wire direct to the motor in the meantime if you need the heater, crude, but better than nothing.

It's just 3-4 10mm bolts that hold the motor in and a little plug for the wires, there is a little hose that cools the motor, you don't need to mess with any of the other stuff just gently move it out of the way if neccessary.

As long as the gauge seems to function throughout it's travel, it is most likely the sender(and easier to fix too), most gauge malfunctions I have came across have been senders or wiring related.

Try removing the motor-make sure it hasn't seized up, in your model the blower motor is behind the plastic panel under the glove box, just pull it off gently, the motor should turn freely with no binding, if the motor is fine you are going to need to trace the heater wiring and look for a short or burned wires in the harness-good luck, Hattori...

Oh yeah, I never even thought of that, RHD is availiable as an option in the US, but there are very few of them rural newspaper and mail carriers swear by them though, but I have only seen a few of them, I would love to have one though!!

Carbon bildup on the piston tops could be effectively raising your compression ratio, causing your car to ping rven when timed properly, you might try using SeaFoam or DeepCreep (availiable at Napa), this works very well for removing carbon deposits, and cleaning the fuel system in general.

I meant too short, my auto tranny speedo cable was way to short as the speedometer drive for the 3AT is on the top of the tranny, perhaps yours had already been replaced with a manual cable before you switched, was there slack in the cable when you pulled the auto?

Get in touch with Bratsrus1, he makes a custom crossmember and shifter linkages which make this much easier, but I can answer a few ?s, Its best to use the EA81 flywheel, as the EA82 has larger bolt holes and won't fit properly, EA82 clutch disc, EA81 pressure plate, EA82 TO bearing, shift linkage mounts to the 5-spd tranny, have to mount the bracket on the hump for the hi-lo shifter, need a manual pedal cluster, manual speedo cable(your auto one is too small), the rear diff in auto cars(and turbos) is 3.70-1, you have to change this to the regular 3.90-1 rear end unless you use a tranny out of a turbo car, you can use the EA82 driveline but it's difficult to mount it perfectly straight, and if it isn't it will vibrate, better off having a custom length one made out of the stock 1-piece, I dont think your turbo axles will fit anything but the turbo tranny, splines are different, you have to use the EA81 axles, the EA82 axles are too long, I'm doing the same conversion to my 84 GL-10 wagon, except I don't have the turbo, I'm about halfway there, it's doable but it takes some work, well worth it though, hope this helps and good luck, Hattori...

The EGR valve is the round thing on the intake manifold behind the carb, sometimes they get stuck open with a chunk of carbon or other debris, you can clean it wih carb spray or get another one from a junkyard, you might want to inspect the idle solenoid on the carb, and make sure its working, adjusted properly, make sure the choke/fast idle is working-pulling off as the car warms up, and check for vacuum leaks, these are the main culprits in idle issues, I don't know about the manual, but i remember seeing some vacuum diagrams on here somewhere, you could always look for a car in the jy with an intact sticker, or check the public library, ours has some pretty decent auto manuals. Hope this helps...

Right on!! Glad it was nothing major.

My 83GL specifies 0.010" intake, and 0.014 exhaust, adjusted with engine stone cold, this is from the Subaru manual, but I don't have turbo, do you still have the tune up specifications sticker under the hood? It should say also, but I don't know if that was a USA only thing or not.

You should be fine for awhile then, you might want to consider maintaining the car yourself, many repairs can be effected with simple tools and a manual, saving you a lot of money too, you can always take it in for the stuff you don't want to tackle.

You probably need them, timing belts in general should be replaced every 60000 miles, some times more often depending on how its driven and maintained, and often this important maintenance goes undone, as the car is passed around waiting to fail on someone, of course they could be new too, but unlikely, the only way to tell is to inspect them carefully.

I'd use the ones without studs already, snow tires, at least all I have ever had, tend to be a soft rubber, and they wear much faster than regular tires, but they should last plenty long for you to find some tires/rims, I didn't notice much traction difference using destudded tires, but I was hardly racing around in them either.

If you coat the stubs with anti-sieze compound the wont freeze together, I have had good luck with the Permatex brand, great for plugs, 02 sensors, exhaust hardware, etc...

I'd opt for a four wheel drive model myself, I have 2, an 83 and 84, and I love em. Five speeds were availiable in the 2wd model, and I have an 81 parts car with one in it, GL-5 model, you can also put a Loyale tranny in the EA81 cars, but you need a custom X-member and driveline to do it right, my 83 has 224K,and is still running strong, so with frequent maintenance it should still have a lot of life left in it, I wouldn't pay more than 250-300 dollars myself-I got my 83 for 150 and it is 4 wheel drive.

It is a cool item for sure, but you have to adjust it alot to make it work properly, I usually remove it from my cars, It seems like more of a feature for the novice driver, plus if the cable ever snapped or if it otherwise failed whilst using it you could damage your car and someone elses too.