mtsmiths

We lifted our '00 Legacy by installing Outback struts, which worked perfectly and created the 'Legaback'. It performed flawlessly for several years and many thousands of miles. That car was totalled by a left-turning Jeep Cherokee, which was fortunately also knocked off. We are shipping our Outback to Hawaii in October, and I'm wondering if there is a similar solution for our current '06 Outback. Some of those beach access lava roads are pretty gnarly, and a couple of inches of lift would help the undercarriage (and increase my access to remote surfing spots) a lot. If it's a major undertaking for this car, fuggidaboudid, we're living in an ocean-front condo with no garage.

Now should be hismiths ... been off board for about a year since I finished my cross-country bicycle ride. Our Subaru has been in storage (or family use) on the Olympic Peninsula, but we are currently on the mainland and will be shipping our '06 outback to the Big Island (Hawaii, moku nui). See further conversation in Performance Tech>Suspension forum.

http://jalopnik.com/5855323/subaru-brz-sti-concept-more-photos

We're riding across the country as a fund raiser for the Kitsap Peninsula Alzheimer's Assoc. Less than a week to go and we leave Kona, Hawaii for Port Ludlow, WA to rig and load our recumbent tandem bike/Bob for our ride across the US. OH, and we need to learn how to ride it too! So, all you PNWers, have a look at my thread in 'Off Topic', and PM me so we can get together either before we set off (estimated to be May 20ish), or along the way. We'll start out from Heah Bay, and go 101 to 2/20, Port Townsend and over Rainy Pass. Love to have a bit o' FtF with some of our long time e-friends from the USMB gang ... and we'll get to see our Outback again and stick our #5 Badge and activity icons on her (should'a been six, but I forgot one ... you wonder why I'm Supporting Alzheimer's research, eh?). So, com'on out, join us, CAUTION! - maybe can use a little help with the bike if anyone is near upper Hood Canal, you could be Shanghaied.

As it happened, just bulbs. WHEW! Musta had one fail on the trip, the other during daylight. Anyhow all fixed, thanks for the help. I think I better update my profile.

Thanks to all, Haven't heard back so don't know. Told Kalani to do as recommended. Change out the passenger side (the easy one), and check. If the low beam works change the other one. If not, bigger problems. Either way don't touch the glass (he knows that). Car has never been wrecked; our next door neighbor bought it new, then they had another kid and needed a bigger car, so we bought it when it was nne months old, and had about 15K on it (Montana racks up miles fast). Got about 79K now. Never had a problem afore, so I'm thinking bulbs. We drove to Taxas and back from the PNW last summer, so we could have lost a bulb and didn't notice on the highway. Since then the car has been in inside storage, except being driven a few times by my daughter in the daytime. The lights are on then, but no one would have noticed if the other bulb failed.

We don't know what 'it' is. It's not bulbs, since both went out at the same time. If it was bulbs, he could handle that. Could be something as simple as a blown fuse (I don't know, the car and manual are on the mainland, I'm in Hawaii) $2.00 fix, or a bad stalk cluster $500.00 fix. I don't want my non-car-guy son getting fleeced by a stealership if I can help it, 'specially not on MY credit card!

Numbah One Son is driving our 2006 Outback on the mainland, right now in Spokane. He reports that the low beams (both side) are out. The fogs come on correctly and are substituting for low beams, the high beams are working. He is NOT a Subaru (or even generally, car) person, so is taking it to the Stealership. Need ideas quick so he doesn't: 1. Make a needless trip. 2. If he must, doesn't go in blind. PM me if you can so I know that there is maybe a solution before he goes to get MY credit card raped.

http://jalopnik.com/5634811/travis-pastranas-record+setting-mt-washington-climb The first time out!

Scoobywagon, nope that was front only. StructEngineer, turned rotors, standard remove and replace including all the required clean/lube. I suppose the entire system wasn't flushed since the rear was untouched, but the front was purged until clear ... at leastthat was what I was told when I asked.

Just did ours today (see my Stealership Alert post) '06 Outback, 75,000 miles, Rears still have 4mm, maybe next year? Clack, my '87 GL was bought with 130,000 mi on the clock, when I sold it with around 220,000 or so I was still on the same pads and clutch. Others, I can't remember.

We're on the mainland and an extended road trip from Pt Ludlow to central Texas. Given our destination in mid-summer I had an AC service (hasn't been done since our '06 was new) and an oil change at Peninsula Subaru, etc. The report noted that our front brakes had only 1.5 mm left on the front pads, and they offered an immediate front brake service for ONLY $340.00 +/-. I told them no thanks, we would be highway driving and I expected we could make it. After checking the board for the routine I decided I didn't really want to do it myself while visiting family, and taking up their garage, so I checked the local Santa Fe dealer, Premier Subaru/VW. In and out in three hours for $179.00 complete. At that price I even opted for a tire rotation at $29.00, even though I felt they should only be charging me 1/2 price since the front wheels were off already! Watch the Bremerton dealer folks.

I wouldn't 'dispute' GD, but I also wouldn't say a sure bet. Keep the coolant clean and in date and never, never let a quick-lube joint near the car. When swapping out the coolant it must be done correctly you you surely WILL blow a head gasket. I DO know how, but always take our 2.5s to a dealer for oil and coolant changes. At 90K be aware that you will be coming up on a timing belt change in a year or so, do NOT neglect it. Enjoy.

So if it didn't gernade, and just pooped out with bad seals or something? I realize that this is a generic question overall. I confess I've never owned a turbo car (quite deliberate mind you), and I don't care for one now, but it's such a good deal I'm trying to figure out if it may be viable or not.

Car is offered at a big discount because the turbo is shot, but the ad claims the car runs fine. Can this be? 1. Could one expect to drive OK with a bad turbo? 2. Could a turbo be eliminated? 3. If no to both what would one be lloking at in terms of general costs to replace? If this is just a remove and replace I can handle, would it be more than that? One day I will have to tell all about why mtsmiths is contemplating a name change to hismiths.

".... 35 mph is probably a bit too fast. I usually don't go more than 25 in the snow in the Sierra Nevada's." Better stay in California then ... in Montana you'll be run down by a 60mph logging truck your first snow outing. Subaru with Hakis ... 70 mph in white-out conditions, never ditched yet

I'm wary of all aftermarket warranties. They are after all only insurance policies, and subject to the payout whims of the company, if it even exists after a few years and you need it. These vendors have an a all-to prevalent history of marketing and dealers selling a bunch of paper for them (remember, the dealere typically gets half the sales price ... for nothing and after all, how much does it cost to print up a bunch of policy certificates?) then folding up their tent and slinking back into the desert.

I agree, but at 90K I'd do some haggling based on the soon-to-be-required timing belt replacement.

Thanks Nip, I'll report back after I see this beasie ... although on the Big Island 'slight drop' in gas mileage IS an issue at $3.66 - $3.89 / gal!

I assume that you are still driving, despite 'needing one'. So, what ARE the consequences? :-\

Sorta what I thought. I don't really know what he is talking about, and I KNOW he doesn't know, and I suspect that whomever he asked for advice doesn't know either. If it's still there when we get over to the Big Island I'll go give it a look-see.

Any help here, or is my question to scattered? :-\

Aloha all, the Montana Smiths have retired and moved (back home) to Hawaii, Big Island, Kailua-Kona Village. I just talked to a guy with a Craigslisted Forester that has been off-&-on running for two years. He says it needs a 'recirculator emissions control solenoid', and that he was quoted $1,200.00 to repair it so he's selling ... cheap. Said it runs fine but he gets gas smell now and then that is really strong. Hawaii is a safety check state, but they don't do emissions, so I could either repair it, or cut it out, if that would work. I never smelled gas on cars that didn't have such things, so do they really HAVE to be there? Also needs tires and a new battery , plugs, wires, new fluids, etc. but it had a full t-belt job done on it 50,000 miles ago, it's never been run with odd sized tires, and he's only asking $1,600 negotiable. If this mystery part is unneeded, or I can get the cost down, it sounds like a pretty good start for my Hawaii beach car ... leers, reaches for Sawzall, welder. If anyone is interested in the status of an old poster I can fill you in at the Off Topic forum.