karinvail

Ya, I was kinda hoping for a sportier sound and a little more ''oomph'' with this muffler. Got a little more than I bargained for though

Ya, the muffler shop told me my cat needed to be replaced too (the cat comes in that front section which is the y-pipe and everything). My husband took off the cover for the cat, and it was just a broken weld. He welded it up, and put back on the cover. Good as new.

Well, we took off the ASV on the passenger side to inspect it - and it looked perfectly intact and assumed it just wasn't working even though it's not broken. The ASV on the driver's side is under the distributor and silencer - and both would have to be removed to get that one off to inspect it since the bracket bolts are inacessable without removing them (which we did NOT want to do!). So, we made some 'plugs' out of sheet metal and blocked the ASV's off at the manifold. It made a big difference - it doesn't pop or backfire when accelerating/shifting, but it does still pop a little decelerating (which I am sure is the anti-muffling muffler.) No more shot gun going off anyhow!

LOL - How'd he spell Subaru? Gonna share the listing so we can see?

Well, bump starting it won't work with an automatic..... The starter is under the hood. In my car ('86 EA82) it's just beside the distributor near the firewall. Follow the positive wire from the battery - that leads straight to the starter. The starter goes through the bell-housing of the transmission/transfer case and engages the flywheel to start the motor. If the solonoid is not working in the starter, then it will not engage the flywheel and will not turn the engine over. Giving the starter a tap might or might not work, it's worth a shot though.

does it have a manual transmission? If the starter is bad, jump starting it will not work. YOu will have to push the car until it's going fast enough to pop the clutch and start it from engine compression. If it's just the battery drained for some reason, then jump starting should work.

I believe he was referring to the contacts IN the starter getting stuck. If you give the starter a bump and then try to start the car.....

So, plug it between the ASV and the black canister? Is this just a band-aid fix though? I'd like to get the best fuel mileage possible, and if plugging it will hurt fuel economy, then I'd only do it until the part came in (assuming I have to order it). I am not in a part of the state where we do emmissions testing, so that is not a concern - just fuel economy and how well it runs.

oh, man, my head is spinning with all that info! dang, and we just sold that parts car with the engine with the cracked block too (and it probably had that part on the engine that DIDN'T backfire, grrr.) Is this the air valve? The silver part right in the middle of the pic? I had to unhook that black canister (moved it to the left - what IS that part too?) that goes in the hanger there, and has a hose that goes to the air filter..... Is there one on both sides or just the passenger side? I peeked on the drivers side, but it's a lot more crowded on that side and I didn't see one.....

OK, yeah, now I am confused Where do I find the 'air suction valve reeds'????? I have never heard of such a thing, LOL. I'm guessing it's in/on the carb???? Boy, am I learning a LOT from this site. WOW. I am even dreaming about Subaru's, LOL. Not good dreams either - mechanical/working on them dreams I know that once I get all the things fixed on this car that was neglected for so long, that it will be as reliable as any of my other Soob's have been though

I am totally confused now, LOL. The carb that we saved from my old engine was a new rebuilt carb - do you think that switching carbs might help then?

Ok, I have been reading the archives and checked everything that was talked about in previous threads - set timing, new vaccuum hoses on anything that looked like it possibly might need it, new manifold gaskets (at $5 ea!), no exhaust leaks, decent gas mileage (I'm guessing around 25, could be better), premium gasoline always, new spark plugs, good cap/rotor, good plug wires. I know it's this loud @$$ exhaust/muffler that is causing the backfire, and I'd like to remedy it ASAP. The exhaust is made from two exhausts - part from my 'donor' car and part from my car. Custom Y-pipe and muffler from the donor car, middle section from my car. Cats removed. It's just pipe down to big muffler with a HUGE tailpipe. The muffler shouldn't even be called a muffler because it doesn't muffle much at all I don't even see baffles in it. I love the looks of the muffler, and the sounds of it when the car is idling or low RPM's. (Doesn't sound like a 4cyl!) But, higher RPM's and it's giving me a headache, PLUS backfiring when shifting and decelerating. Always it's a pop-pop-pop-pop, and sometimes it's a BANG between shifts. Can I add something in the exhaust line that will help? Or is there a different (but still cool looking/sounding) muffler that I can put that it won't backfire? Hubby suggested a cherry bomb, but I would bet it would be the same? I would love to be able to keep the muffler I have (it's shiny chrome and looks good!), and just add something else if I could. I hope anyhow!

I'd like a picture if you can - my husband did my exhaust and removed the cat - I asked for a heat shield there to protect the CV boot, but so far we haven't done that.

if you have the key code, and the doors are locked, I'd have a key made and try to find the owners info inside the car You might get lucky and find her and she'd give it to ya so she's not responsible for a towing fee - you never know!

check the connections on the battery - make sure you are getting good contact. See if the lights work, or the wipers - that will tell you if battery is dead or not. Just because it's a new battery, doesn't mean that is not part of the problem. If the battery is dead, first suspect would be the alternator.....

so, your subaru-hummer is made from the plans from that site then? I hope you at least got her a GL Wagon to replace it hee hee

Oh, these are just way too fun looking. Devious mind at work thinking of how I could get hubby to build one. OH! Wouldn't it make a fantastic hunting rig? Hee hee Easy and quiet to hop out of but gets you to places not every rig can get to

I agree - this high dollar paint shoudl be done by a professional or you will be kicking yourself later. Maybe you can do all the prep work and a local body-shop could do the paint spraying for you?

OMG that is an unreal price for that paint! No wonder you don't see it on many cars! Even the rattle can stuff for that cameleon paint is pretty darn expensive though. I wonder what is in it that makes it so expensive?!

thank you thank you thank you! I am going to go see how much a timing light costs and mess with it myself if I can find a decent price on one You guys have been a great help!

An SS center cap? What do those look like? I've ordered some stock caps from someone on the board here (and they should be here today/tomorrow), I would love other options - but was told at the wheel/tire store that stock was my only option?

Thanks guys! I have to give the credit for the color choice to my hubby. He had this color sceme on some fancy *expensive* aluminum wheels he had on a Covair we used to have (dang do we miss that car!). I was just going to paint them gloss black, but he insisted on the aluminum color edges. Sanding/Painting them was a PIA - I sure hope the paint lasts. I used paint-on gloss enamel (the black goes on so thick it almost looks powder coated!), so hopefully it will last

Sorry, this is a stock carbed EA82. I would have done the timing myself (I am a very do-it-yourself type person!), but we don't own a timing light. It was just a drop-in at hubby's friends and he mentioned he had a light. OK, now I can't find where I read that 2deg adv was the right timing. It was set by ear (and hubby's friend said that the light said that was 20deg adv). So, 8 deg BTDC is the correct timing? BTDC means Before Top Dead Center? How does 'advanced/retarted' and BTDC corolate? Different terms.....

I took some auto body in college and one thing I learned was that the prep is most of the work, definitely without a doubt. Also dark colors are much harder than light colors. White, creamy colors, and silver are EASY colors, black and other dark colors are the hardest because they show every tiny imperfection. If I were to paint my Soob - oh, that gunmetal grey color would be it. I don't have THAT much ambition though, LOL.

You can get the tea tree at WalMart in the vitamins section - or a pharmacy should have it. I think the 2oz. bottle is about $4.50 at WalMart.