Jadu108

So far on my car i havnt been able to accurately diagnose a bearing until the knuckle was free from the car. They can be decievingly solid until you have it free from the axle and the hub is all floppin around :\ I agree and say change the ball joints any way... in can be a PITA if you have a rustbelt car, but get it done and rule it out...... A somewhat simpler method to avoiding pressing bearings, go to the junk yard and look for a donor with new axle nuts, more times than not a new axle nut means new bearing and/or axle.

cheaper to swap the internals from a WRX or something, cheaper still to just get a WRX :\ LegacyGT forums has a killer write up on which engines can turbo, whichs ones can but shouldnt, as well as every hybrid combination of EJ Heads and Blocks that are good for turbo, or a cheaper alternative to turbo... Id really check it out tbh before you even think about adding a turbo or anything performance based to the engine really.

should be the regular open on mine (the side with no load spins)... and its a 90/10 split.

Yeah, the sound is consistent with what ive heard as lifter tick, it just its habits seem opposite of what most ppl say theres does... ill try an oil change and maybe some MMO here soon. im do for an oil change within a couple hundred miles

im still voting bearing, but changing this other stuff your concerned about isnt hard or expensive and if youre really worried about it, do it all.

Rent the spring compressor and do it your self unfortunately. Or go to the Junk yard and pull some off a car.

95 Legacy 2.2L The tick honestly sounds like what ive heard in videos as lifter/valve tick... But it doesnt do it until warmup, which is what most experience(i think?), but for me it does it only after it has warmed up for a period of 15 or so minutes of idle, and is not noticable when driving... as in i think it only does it when idle. no CEL, using 10w30 oil.

So I cannot get a definitive answer on this... When my car is up in the air with all 4s, and i put the car in D, the back axles do not spin with the front. With the car off, the DS spins relatively easily by hand and that spins the rear axle no problem... Ive heard that the Autos dont engage the AWD at all times like the Manuals do, and im really only going to notice it during adverse conditions (rain, snow, ice) or hard turning? Can i get some clarification on this, and do i need to investigating a possible Duty C or Center Diff issue?

Unfortunately I cannot verify exactly what it was, but vibration had dissapeared after replacing Rear Shocks, Axles and Bearings, and before i replaced the front shocks. So... hopefully that helps someone.

Thanks

I would change both. Bearings can go bad on the subarus but by hand still "feel" solid. Tie rod isnt that hard to do either.

95 legacy. Auto awd four disk brakes. Just tryin to figure out how to remove the ebrake cable so i can change the assembly

Alternator dying on my trailblazer caused this. Radio worked, dash lights didnt, it would crank but never turn over. So... Maybe check that for shitd and giggles.

95 legacy auto awd

What are the sizes are the rear bushings, for the trailing arm, etc. I cant seem to find them without buying a whole set online and waiting. I kinda wanna just get some throwaway ones to put in atm.

I missed your first post.. Front inner doj? Whats a doj?

Yes i thought that too. But the junk yard here had a legacy with brand new bearings put in before the HG blew :p 25$ a pop for the spindle assembly... So im changing those out regardless to be sure. Also no drag from the ebrake parts... Also going to pull the struts off that car in the morning, maybe a different one depending on interchangability, got some axles too, i think if i got the bushings ill be good to go as far as that is concerned... I might just put the fuse in the fwd box and diagnose the awd after the weekend.

Another thing i noticed before i noticed the previous 2 replies. Someone at legacygt forums suggested to turn the drive shaft by hand at the rear diff. The DS spins relatively easily by hand, and smoothly, and both rear tires rotate with it. But one tire was getting stuck halfway thru rotation. Checked to see if caliper was stuck, indeed it was, unjammed it, it now glides free. But it still remains. I can hear a grinding esque noise on the opposite side of the rotor from the caliper. But more prominent in the rear of the spindle than the hub side. I dont think the bent rim is my primary source of vibration, it doesnt seem that bad, and the tire was one the front, where ive prominently felt this experience through the back... Im guessing this is narrowed down to axle and/or bearing on the rear side vibration. And as far as the the awd not engaging, maybe the duty c? Because i nothing is locked up? Or am i missing something?

Okay. So just 'drove' it on stands, couldnt pin point anything in the driveshaft area, buuuut i noticed my rear 2 tires do not spin. Fwd fuse is not in. Is my diff locked up? Also. Makes me lean toward rear axles and one of my rims seem bent.

Thats what i thought. I got it on stands right now. Just waiting for some warmer rays to see if i can see/hear some shaking somewhere

Yeah ujoints are part of the whole driveshaft on these cars. And indeed will be an expensive and difficult job :/ would i beable to rule that out with the Fwd fuse?

Thats what im hoping to avoid, though honestly if i had the money I would replace stuff until its fixed, if only just know i replaced all the other stuff on the way to finding the problem... But that's not an option right now :p so yeah i was going to put the car up on jack stands in the drive way and have a friend either watch, or 'drive' the car while i watch/hear, for any vibration in the axles or driveshaft. ive had a person else where suggest ujoint. And one other suggest its my strut being that being that far gone.

Interesting. Is there a way to isolate it to the axles without pulling off the car and/or blindly replacing them? Budget is tight, as it time. I still daily use the car.

Following your thread too. I started my own about a similar issue.

A lot of times they come alrdy mixed in the refigerant, but you can buy stand alone dye... Try Advanced Auto? Last place i saw it.