RallyKeith

NICE! Any problems with the tires rubbing in the rear? Keith

Anymore thought on the date Moosen? I just found out that the weekend of the Oct. 15-16 is out for me also. After That I think I can be free. Keith

I can't give you a dollar number, but it really depends on how swift the people doing the work are. You could do it with out pulling the trans completely. That would save several hours of labor and at something like $50 an hour that adds up. The center diff can be accessed by dropping the exhaust, the drive shaft, and then dropping the rear cross member for the trans while supporting it. Then all they have to do is tilt the back of the tranny down and unbolt the rear case section and out comes the diff.

Let's just clear a few things up that I think are a bit misleading here. There were design issues with the early EJ25D DOHC 2.5 that caused HG failures. This has been fixed and as long as you have the HGs replaced with gaskets from Subaru and the job is done correctly they should not fail for the same reasons. However, if the job is done incorrectly, or the driver does something like drive with no coolant, well then of course the gaskets can go. Also, to be clear, the later SOHC 2.5 has an issue with the headgasket, but it is mearly a leak of coolant to the outside where as the DOHC is actually a blown HG. As for does it happen to every motor? NO There are plenty of motors that have not had a problem, but a majority of them have. Like was mentioned, it's good to factor that in somewhere in case it happens. As for the 2.2 there has never been a design flaw to my knowledge that lead to HG failures. There are lots of reasons HGs can go, but you will have to search long and hard to come up with 2.2 HG failures that don't have a story behind them. Keith

You also said the temperature sensor was replaced. Which one? There is oe for the gauge which is inexpensive, and there is one for the computer and is costly ( I just payed about $40 for that one). Hopefully the correct one was replaced. Keith

The 93 factory Harness should plug straight into the 2002 Head unit. As for how the subwoofer wires I have no experience. Keith

HUH? I've lived in reading for the past... 28 years and I don't know who this is nor have I ever heard of him. Do you have more information? Also, A to Z has been going down hill lately. I or my father can definitly make a scouting run. EZ in New Ringgold is also good. And the Harry's in allentown sucks. Last time I went there they had 1 subaru. One late 80s GL. I can probably make a scouting run to that one as well. The harry's in pennsburg usually has some stuff. Kinda Funny, I live in reading, 15minutes away from A-Z, and work centrally to the two Harry's Satalites in A-town and Pennsburg. That means I can even do a scouting run to the Harry's in Pennsburg when the time is right. I can do those over lunch the week before you uys come down. Keith

First off, I'd ask Sean to verify that he has seen this installed and working on a GL. I seem to think someone looked at this before and with 89 being the actual first year for the Legacy, it doesn't work on GLs but Legacys from 89 up. Also, this is a sincere question not something to diprove it working on a GL or not. If it works on a GL why would 89 be the cut? Is there a big difference between the 88 or 87 and the 89? I didn't think there was but I could be wrong. Keith

First off, No check engine light correct? When cold the car runs rich, so a slight smell wouldn't be too unexpected, but I've never experianced it with my 96GT. Also, based on your name I assume you have a 96 Legacy GT. The 96 GT had the first release of the EJ25D. The owners manual and the gas flap should both say premium fuel reccomended. The later years did not "require" it. I seem to be able to run mid-grade in mine, but I also just did the head gaskets and had the heads cleaned.

Yeah, what do you call a big repair? If you average car payment is lets say $200 a month on a 5 year loan, you could spend $2400 a year on repairs (that's a lot in my book) and still be no worse off than if you were making payments on a loan. Lets also not forget that any car you have a lein against must be FULLY insured. As long as you are a good driver you could take collision off after the loan is done and actually save money. It all comes down to you and your life style. I can do all of my own repairs, and generally don't mind. So for me having a brand new car isn't a must.

Pretty much a ditto for me. I can use some stuff for my new gen cars. Keith

Just look for the Blue 96 Impreza with a WRX drive line and the name Kennedy on the car. We will be running Can't give you a car number, but I'd imagine we'll be somewhere in the high teens. As for Black River.... Who are they going to get to organize it? Mark lives in Athens now, so there is defenitely no way he will be.

Intersting..... My 96 Whistles only under heavy acceleration AND the check engine light is on for "ineffecient catalyst" or bad cat! WOW..... Maybe I should get around to replacing the cats and see if it goes away. I've never been able to figure out what it is that makes the noise, but I figured it was exhaust related. Keith

Yup. See you there

Intersting. I did some research and I'm not sure that what we used was butyl tape. What I found a lot of information on was foam cored. I know what we used was not foam cored. Anyhow, that is one of the biggest changes in auto design. Windsheilds are a structural part of the car these days. Fortunatley, the windsheilds I've replaced are in a race car with a full roll cage, so if in fact it was butyl tape that was used we aren't in any MORE danger than we already are. Keith

They sell another kit that is for scratch removal, but it uses an orbital sander and some pretty agressive stuff. This one is much milder so I'm going to try it first.

What year/model car is it? I would suspect that the tensioner is loose because the belt has stretched, and if that is the case you may be in danger of it breaking, but more likely the belt could slip. The first thing is to know what year/model your car is so we can figure out if it will damage your engine if the belt breaks or slips. Keith

Wasn't sure where to put this, but since I'm looking to do it to my 95 and 96 Legacys I figured I would post it in here. Both of my Legacy windshields have lots of tiny pits, and what not from over the years, that when in direct sunlight make it nearly impossible to see out. It is becoming very unsafe for me to drive to work at this time of year. So, I found this Glass Polishing Kit from Eastwood that looks like it might help. Has anyone ever done anything like this with sucess? Thanks, Keith

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Your windsheild isn't cracked down the middle, and the professionals have already fixed it. The crack isn't in your immediate view so that isn't a problem either. So then why shell out $350 for something that could be hit by a rock at ANY time? Who is to say another stone won't get kicked up the day after you get the new windsheild installed a break that one? That's how I look at it. Also, it's actually a rope type caulk sealer that is used. Comes in a roll and is simply run around the edge of the windsheild. Pretty easy, so the seal isn't really an issue. Keith

I guess maybe I wasn't clear. I mean a generic 4 wire Bosch or other brand name. In other words, the sensors are really all the same, it's just the connector or threading. Instead of paying lots of extra money to get one with the factory plug on it you get just the sensor with a few inches of bare wire and splice it to the original factory plug. I've never had an issue with the ones I used on Hondas, but for some reason the one we got for an 850 Volvo seemed off.

I'm thinking it could be a fluid level or quality issue. At higher RPMs, like would be seen under full throtle shifting, you will be building more pressure from the pump in the trans. I don't know for sure but it could be that for some reasons it doesn't have enough pressure to sharply engage the gear. I guess check the fluid level for a start. There is a specific procedure in the owners manual for that. Keith

My brother has had problems with the head light plugs on his 96 Impreza for some reason. The problem is, if you get a loose connection things can get very hot, and cause extra current to be drawn. This will obviously blow a fuse, but also it can damage the wire. The extra heat and current oxidize (rust/corrode) the wire and make it brittle. So, it's not a specifically common thing, but it can and does happen. New plug and some a few new inches of wire and you should be good to go. Also, do you run extra wattage bulbs or the stock? Extra wattage means extra current through the wires and extra heat from the bulb that can make this happen as well. Keith

Your car should have two sensors. It sounds like you are trying to replace the front sensor? Make sure they aren't calling up a rear sensors. Also, both my 95 and 96 Legacys have 4 wire square plug sensors. Also, you may want to follow my new thread HERE about generic sensors. Thanks, Keith

So, in the past with other cars I've replaced the O2 sensor with a generic sensor that used my original wiring harness, but still had all the wires. Has anyone done this with sucess, or does anyone have a specific reason why not to? I'm looking to do this with my 96 Legacy GT. Thanks, Keith

Very nice! I like the wood grain center console and the adjustable aim head lights. Keith