jxavierf

Ok....so I replaced the coil.....it runs and starts fine????? Unbelievable! Now, because its poor running before, Ive had to adjust the the air/fuel mixture and idle speed on the carb. I would like to get it back to specs......what are the specs on an 84 for the air/fuel mixture.....currently, I have it 5 full turns out (turned the screw all the way in, then 5 full rotations out). Thanks!

My car is very hard to start in the morning. Ive checked the relays and their fine. So from the replies, it leads me to beleive that it is a fuel delivery problem caused by a mehcanical problem (clogged filter) or possibly do to an electrical problem that is effecting the fuel delivery.

I've heard of people who have crap in their gas tank, removing the fuel filter (the one underneath the car near the passenger rear tire) completely so that the particals and crap go into the 2nd filter (under the hood). This way they only have to change one filter, the easy one to get to, and all the extra crap that gets through can get burned up. Makes sense, but how, if you remove the underneath filter, do continue the gas line to the 2nd filter?

I'm glad the hatch is running well! I've changed the fuel filter twice in the last 5 months (both filters). So you think its a fuel delivery problem? Thanks....

Ok, its been a problem popping up at random. Driving down the road, sometimes at 30 mph, sometimes at 60.......all of a sudden, the rpms will be at say, 3000, then will suddenly drop to zero, all torque power gone, then suddenly back to 3000 rpms......this repeats itself over and over, then either I will have to pull over, turn off the car (it ends up dying), or everything goes back to normal. I tried to figure out is this an electrical problem, fuel related, vacuum related, or mechanical. I know I have a slight vac leak.....I've tested this by taking off the air cleaner lid and blocking with a rag the opening to the carb....the rpms will rise about 100 - 150 rpms, which is evident to a leak. The disty is new, carb is new.....though I'm not confident that the choke is working properly. I replaced all wires, plugs, cap, rotor. The air mixture screw to the carb is turned out 5 full turns, otherwise idles too rough. Idle at neutral is about 1250, in drive about 850......which is all high compared to specs. Timing is advanced 4 degrees BTDC. Any ideas to a solution would be helpful. I've never been able to get this subi running right. Thanks!

I've tried the carb cleaner....and Seafoam.....no significant help. How would I test the fuel pump to see if its running properly?

where's the accelerator pump and charcol canister located? thanks........

Could these symptoms be cause by a bad fuel pump? I know subi pumps should outlast the car, but still curious? thanks

yes, twice in the past 3 months

That is correct..... at 4degBTDC? And its been like this for about 4 months running just fine. thanks.........

Here's the background. Timing advanced 4 degrees, Idles in drive at about 1000 to 1100 rpms. Noticed poor gas milage, so I dropped the advance by twisting the disty down, and then adjusted the idle speed down. Was driving on the highway cruising at about 65....suddenly the rpms drop to zero, then back up again, seconds later does it agian. I pull over and advance the disty and adjust up the idle speed......problem solved. However seems to run very sluggishly. New disty (about 3 months old). Car has trouble starting in the morning (even before this problem). I have to pump the gas and keep on the gas to get it started.....and if I let off the gas and then press gas again, the car threatens to stall. Once it warms up runs fine, but with a slight hesitation. All vac hoses are intact, float level fine. Put Seafoam in carb and gas tank....no real help. It's an 84 gl wagon 4x4 automatic. I've noticed that the fuel tank may have crud in it do to the fact that the car sat for a long time.....so I've changed the fuel filters twice and periodically use seafoam. Car was running good a month ago (apart from trouble starting). Thanks for your advice.

My 84 carbed wagon's timing is advanced; therefore, my Idle is about 1K RMPs apposed to about 800 rmps. .......is this right? Should the idle be increased to compensate for the advance in the timing? Just wondering. Thanks

Of those who have used POR 15....can you paint over it? If not, than what color is it? Want to coat the underbody, but also about 4 inches above the trim...visable. Other Q......What is the best way to clean out your gas tank without removing it??? giddie up

I had the same problem which was solved by installing a new disty.....not a problem since.....good luck?

At a stop light with a person in front of me; light still red....bam! FedEx truck rearends me pushing my subi four feet into the car in front of me. Damage not that bad, but both front and rear bumbers need replacing/repair.....anyone have any idea what this would cost??? The claims "estimator" is going to look at it next week.....just want to have my guns loaded. cheers..............

I have similair problems with my 84 gl auto. What has helped is a new fuel filter and some SeaFoam......however, this was just a temporary solution. I beleive the problem stems from either one of or a combination of: fuel filter, fuel pump, vacuum leak, or float level. I've not quite resolve my issues yet....next is the float level, if that isn't it, I'll test the fuel pump with a voltmeter. But if I were you, I'd start with the fuel fitler (and fuel vapor separator) and see how that works. Q: When you get to a constant Idle after it warms up (1000 rpms), then you shift to Reverse or Drive, do the RPMs drop about 200rpms?? Good Luck jxavierf

I've endured this long enough and must get to the bottom of it. Have a hell of a time starting in the morning....cranking and pumping the gas....and once it catches, I must keep on the gas for about a minute before stepping off the pedal. Then the car must warm up for another 3 minutes before I drive, if I dont wait it stalls once I press on the gas. the funny thing is, is that it drives beautifully when warm......and even starts ok with a warm engine. Assuming that the float level is ok....where else should I look? Battery and alt are maintaining proper voltage. Its an 84 gl wagon 4wd automatic and carbed. Thanks...........

Ok.....I tested the voltage from the battery with a voltage meter.....at idle the positive terminal to chassi ground showed about 14.5V.....when I turned on the AC it read about 14.3V....negligable. However, in my car the guage was reading about 12.3V at idle and almost 12V with AC on......but this was in Park.....once I put gear into reverse or drive (automatic) the voltage droped to below 10V (in the red).....this only happened with the AC on, and once I press the gas the voltage goes back up to 12V ish. By the way I fixed the vac. or idle solinoid thingy......had a hose disconnected....so now when I turn on the AC the lever pulls the throttle so the idle only drops 100 or 200 rpms. I still think this is all wierd and that something is wrong. It seams that the V drop has more to do about being in gear than the AC. Any thoughts?

Is this the vac. diaphram or idle up solinoid? See pic link below............. Correction......the rpms drop from about 12.5V to around 9V in the red (not 6, like I said before).....and yes it only happens once I turn the AC air switch on (1-4) at idle....but goes back to 12V when I press the gas. I beleive the vac. diaphram or idle up solinoid is suppose to trigger an arm the pulls the throttle open more....I tested this and it doesn't move whether I have the AC on or not.... See pic below.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6362 Thanks..........

Thanks Glen...........

No.....when I turn on the AC no change.....when I turn on the fan, thats when the RPMs drop (they drop about 150-200 rpms) and the voltage drops. Q. I noticed that my positive terminal to the battery has its own ground.....a wire coming off the red terminal connected to the body........is that suppose to be there???

Should I test all of this with the voltmeter with the car off or on?

I'm guessing that its a bad connection/ bad ground causing these problems.......which leads to how to best check for bad grounds.....I have a voltmeter, though don't know how to use it in detecting bad grounds.

The V are is only dropping at idle.....without the AC on the car at ilde reads around 12V and with the AC at idle maybe 6V (in the red at the first dash). Not much of a difference at what AC setting. Once I accelerate with the AC on, the V's rise to normal around 12V....at around 50mph closer to 13V. Bear in mind that the Alt is only 5 months old. Thanks

Voltage is usually btwn 12 and 14 without AC......once I turn the AC on, needle drops to the red at the last tick/line. Is this normal? Alt is new, battery is reading 12.49V with with engine off and key in ignition at half turn. Thanks.........